Bandsaw quick release failed.....repair suggestions?

[Dick Mahany]

After over 12 years of solid, problem free use, my Carter Quick release failed today. This is not a complaint as this device has been great and owes me nothing after all these years. A roll pin sheared that holds a pinion gear onto the release handle. I was able to get it apart and drive the roll pin out in 3 broken pieces with a small drift. Now for suggestions on how to repair it. ( I did send an email to the mfr. but couldn't find any kind of repair parts list). The roll pin is .125" D x ~ 0.84"L. I think it may have been hardened because I could barely drill it. Any suggestions on where to get a hardened durable roll pin this size? Also, note the wear marks on the parts, There are no bearings in this assembly and I'm wondering if I should use some type of grease after I smooth all of the wear surfaces, or do you think grease on a bandsaw might be asking for more trouble? Thanks for any insights you may have.

280191280192

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dick,

I would check with machine shops in the your area or even good bearing supply or really good bearing supply houses for the roll pins.

Beyond that, if you are in no hurry, I'm sure someplace like Grainger or McMaster-Carr would have it.

[Myk Rian]

Hardware store. Nothing uncommon about it.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dick...out of curiosity...was it a split spring roll pin or solid?

[Phil Thien]

Hardware store. Nothing uncommon about it.

^^^^ This.

[Bruce Page]

I checked my dowel stash and the longest 1/8 roll pin I have is 3/4". I recall seeing roll pins in the specialty hardware drawers at Lowes.
I think a little grease on the gear rack would be a good thing.

[Dick Mahany]

Thanks all so far for your quick responses! The roll pin was a split pin. I do have one that came in a package of low quality hardware assortment. I can grind it down to length, but when I hit it with a file it seems possibly too soft. I'll grind it to length and try it. Nothing to lose as it's a weekend.

Seems like I only break my tools on the weekends;)

[Guy Belleman]

Different size and length of roll pins available at most hardware stores. I have a box of 300 that I got from Amazon for $8, I think.

[Ronald Blue]

Fastenal lists one in the correct length. Zinc plated spring steel. 1/8" diameter is a common size and hardware or farm stores are likely to have as has been suggested already. Your idea of grinding a longer one off would work fine as well. You can also get a spiral style which is close to solid. However if the original lasted 12 years and the replace fits tight then I don't know that I would do anything besides replace it. Spring pins are funny things and not in a humorous way. They are easy to mushroom if you aren't careful. Once you start it in the hole drive it solidly with as few of blows as possible. If you have a brass hammer that would help. You can file spring steel. It is typically around 50 Rockwell C scale for hardness.

[John Coloccia]

You can push them in too. I use "welding" vice grips like this:

http://www.sears.com/vise-grip-11-in-c-clamp-locking-with/p-00920711000P

They work well for coaxing all sorts of things places they don't want to go :)

[Bill ThompsonNM]

And I've pushed many a pin in with a c clamp when I have access.

[HANK METZ]

Roll pins require a very snug fit between components, and slop is detrimental to the assembly. Just looking at the image, it seems the arm length of the lever is far beyond what a 1/8” roll pin can be expected to endure; in such situations it’s usually better to install a key to deal with the load and let the pin merely keep it together, unless of course a weld is out of the question. Let's hope they get back to you with a favorable solution, I would wait for that proposal before undertaking a repair.

[Ronald Blue]

It lasted 12 years so I don't think I would lose sleep over it. With the shaft appearing to be only 1/2" in diameter you can't go much larger. You could bump up to 5/32 diameter and gain a little strength if you are comfortable with drilling it. I wouldn't go any bigger for fear of making the shaft the "weak" link.

[Chris Fournier]

As others have mentioned you are well on your way to a repair that will likely last another 12 years! I would not sue grease on a bandsaw but I always use a dry film lubricant, either graphite or teflon. I prefer the graphite because it leaves a black "tell" on the components. Be sure to keep the threaded tension rod and nut lubricated!

[Dick Mahany]

Thanks much for all the suggestions. My local ACE hardware had the spring pin. I also got a solid dowel pin while I was there, but it is too loose so I just used the split spring steel pin. After stoning the gall marks, from the surfaces, it seems almost as smooth as new. As several of you suggested, yep those spring pins can be tricky as I found out. Suggestions for using clamps and graphite were just the ticket. I decided not to drill it one size larger and not to weld it (both great suggestions) as I figured I might really mess it up worse knowing my luck. Now I've to get the saw back together before the playoff games start! Again, thanks!