John TenEyck
01-18-2014, 7:55 PM
I few weeks ago I asked for some advise on anchoring newel posts. Well, the posts have been built and I installed them earlier this week, so I thought I'd show you some pictures of the installation.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-elt_r_dQcBY/Up06G2NqEMI/AAAAAAAAImg/Bg6svW_SeJQ/s400/Stair%2520Balustrade%2520R6%2520-%2520B.jpg
I started by snapping chalk lines to define the edge of the newel posts. Then I checked for floor joists. My center newel post was within an inch or so of a joist, so I just shifted that one, but that was not possible with the corner post and there was nothing under it. So, I had to cut a hole through the floor to add some structure. To do that I located the joist on each side and marked out an area large enough to insert the wood I needed to add, then cut it out freehand with a jigsaw. I had a add a couple of plywood shims first so that this section of 2 x 6 would end up right under the center of the newel post. I screwed each piece to the joist as I went.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PPUal_2pWwk/UtcdmIGNN2I/AAAAAAAAI8o/3hjuGcFMB-k/s400/IMG_3059.JPG
I added some additional blocking and support to support the flooring. Then screwed the flooring back in place. With that done I drilled a 3/8" hole then installed the Sure-Tite newel bolt.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gTLQB6QsW0k/UtcdqxYbNCI/AAAAAAAAI9Q/zjAhUDYnOZo/s400/IMG_3065.JPG
I test fit the newel and had to add a few paper shims to get it plumb. Then I put some PL construction adhesive on the bolt and under the post, and slid the post over the bolt. To get the nut onto the bolt I taped it to a socket that I had fit onto the end of a piece of 3/4" threaded rod. Then fit that down into the post and tightened it onto the bolt with a Crescent wrench.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rgeGSuvVWqg/UtcdtrBjHQI/AAAAAAAAI9o/Gptq9BMhgX0/s400/IMG_3068.JPG
The middle post was so close to a joist that did not have to add any additional support under the floor, so that went a lot quicker. I made sure both posts were aligned as I tightened the nut on the second newel. The half newel was screwed through the wall to blocking that I added behind the wall, taking care to put the screws where they would later be covered. The floor dropped off about a half inch from the corner newel to the half newel, so I installed the half newel about half that amount off the floor. I couldn't go any higher because the flooring will only be 5/16" thick.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mPKBi6S53Ho/Utcdo6XgauI/AAAAAAAAI9A/a75-8nl_JLQ/s400/IMG_3063.JPG
Next I marked the location of the rail between the half newel and the corner newel. Then I installed the bottom plate between the posts, screwing it to the floor in the dado. To layout the location of the balusters I measured the distance between the newel posts. To that distance I added the width of one baluster, then divided that by the number of balusters + 1. That result is the centerline of the balusters. I marked out those locations with a set of dividers, then transferred the pencil marks to the top railing.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Soof6KWc2go/UtcdypzGeLI/AAAAAAAAI-I/0E4fyTCtTSo/s400/IMG_3073.JPG
I should back up a minute to talk about how the railings are installed. After the section is cut to final length, I drilled a hole about 5/8" deep in the dado section of the bottom of the rail, then routed a dado from the hole to the end of the rail. The bolts are 1/4" x 3" long Spax lag screws.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WVqnRwc2Ecc/UtcdzvIX3HI/AAAAAAAAI-Q/k7tJUF9FOv8/s400/IMG_3074.JPG
Next I drilled holes into the newel posts for the rail bolts and started them into the holes. I pre-installed the rail, measured the length for each baluster, and cut them to final length. Then I put the rail over the balusters and bolts, and tightened the bolts with an open ended wrench.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-brSksvhwKpU/Utcd14oJ_HI/AAAAAAAAI-s/cO-RLy5HVso/s400/IMG_3078.JPG
Then I cut and installed the fillets between the balusters. The length of the fillets is just the distance between the newel posts minus the aggregate width of the balusters divided by the number of balusters + 1. You might have to make a small adjustment to last piece, but not much. Anyway, I cut them taking care to keep them in order, then fit them into each opening as necessary.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8s51e1hJ4-I/UtceDBvjo4I/AAAAAAAAJAg/8w-vhep_kJE/s400/IMG_3093.JPG
The bottom ones were installed just with pin nails, the upper ones with pin nails and glue. The fillets not only cover the lag screws that secure the rail to the newel posts, but they also prevent the rail from being pulled up off the bolts.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Dc8OHmheeD4/Utcd3rtTjgI/AAAAAAAAI-4/KQ-26GvFYmA/s400/IMG_3080.JPG
The stairs were a mess. The homeowner said he would rebuild them, and with some direction this is what it looked like after he did.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Hg9aQUPjXW4/Utcd8tXbMdI/AAAAAAAAI_o/s7kNfo7DYOo/s400/IMG_3086.JPG
Still ugly, but a whole bunch better. The bolt on the first tread was a real pain. I ended up having to cut off a couple of inches, which is not an easy task; those things are hard. I ended up cutting it off with an abrasive wheel. I also had to over bore the hole to keep the joist from splitting, so I glued the bolt in place and let it set overnight before installing the newel post. Fortunately, it was good and solid. The bolt at the top step was installed at an angle into the blocking underneath, and then bent straight up for the newel post could fit over it properly. The top step is higher than the base of the other newels, so I had to cut it off so that the top would be level with the others. The newel on the first step had to be cut off by the same amount. That completed the installation of the posts.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ksCVDtzQJ2g/UtceA_VLIpI/AAAAAAAAJAQ/ERbeYGg14p0/s400/IMG_3091.JPG
The bottom trim plate had to be cut to fit up over the top step. The rails and balusters were installed in each section the same as before.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C49vtmuZLeo/UtceD156r4I/AAAAAAAAJAo/Iz9lyx2t6mQ/s400/IMG_3094.JPG
The cut angle for the rail on the steps was marked by clamping straight edges where the rail would be located and marking directly on the rail. Then I aligned the miter saw by pivoting it until the laser was parallel with the marked line, and cut the rail.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O1GV6T0TFDE/UtceFtpScWI/AAAAAAAAJA8/enhTGE38ORg/s400/IMG_3096.JPG
The rail was bolted in the same way as the others, but I also glued it to the newel posts for some added security. I used the new slow set super glue sold by Rockler (can't remember the name). It's nice stuff, plenty of time to reposition things and then in 3 or 4 minutes it's set solid. I plan to use it to glue the main stair rail sections together when I install them. Finally, the balusters were marked and cut to length and installed.
So, here it is all done upstairs.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YsSss94XyFw/UtceJ7rZM3I/AAAAAAAAJBg/g9spxqSn-nQ/s400/IMG_3101.JPG
Sorry to be so long winded. It took 2-1/2 days to do this. Installing a balustrade may seem rather intimidating, but it's not really all that hard. If you've thought about doing it but hesitated, maybe this will help show you it's a doable project and doesn't require a lot of tools.
Thanks for looking.
John
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-elt_r_dQcBY/Up06G2NqEMI/AAAAAAAAImg/Bg6svW_SeJQ/s400/Stair%2520Balustrade%2520R6%2520-%2520B.jpg
I started by snapping chalk lines to define the edge of the newel posts. Then I checked for floor joists. My center newel post was within an inch or so of a joist, so I just shifted that one, but that was not possible with the corner post and there was nothing under it. So, I had to cut a hole through the floor to add some structure. To do that I located the joist on each side and marked out an area large enough to insert the wood I needed to add, then cut it out freehand with a jigsaw. I had a add a couple of plywood shims first so that this section of 2 x 6 would end up right under the center of the newel post. I screwed each piece to the joist as I went.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PPUal_2pWwk/UtcdmIGNN2I/AAAAAAAAI8o/3hjuGcFMB-k/s400/IMG_3059.JPG
I added some additional blocking and support to support the flooring. Then screwed the flooring back in place. With that done I drilled a 3/8" hole then installed the Sure-Tite newel bolt.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gTLQB6QsW0k/UtcdqxYbNCI/AAAAAAAAI9Q/zjAhUDYnOZo/s400/IMG_3065.JPG
I test fit the newel and had to add a few paper shims to get it plumb. Then I put some PL construction adhesive on the bolt and under the post, and slid the post over the bolt. To get the nut onto the bolt I taped it to a socket that I had fit onto the end of a piece of 3/4" threaded rod. Then fit that down into the post and tightened it onto the bolt with a Crescent wrench.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rgeGSuvVWqg/UtcdtrBjHQI/AAAAAAAAI9o/Gptq9BMhgX0/s400/IMG_3068.JPG
The middle post was so close to a joist that did not have to add any additional support under the floor, so that went a lot quicker. I made sure both posts were aligned as I tightened the nut on the second newel. The half newel was screwed through the wall to blocking that I added behind the wall, taking care to put the screws where they would later be covered. The floor dropped off about a half inch from the corner newel to the half newel, so I installed the half newel about half that amount off the floor. I couldn't go any higher because the flooring will only be 5/16" thick.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mPKBi6S53Ho/Utcdo6XgauI/AAAAAAAAI9A/a75-8nl_JLQ/s400/IMG_3063.JPG
Next I marked the location of the rail between the half newel and the corner newel. Then I installed the bottom plate between the posts, screwing it to the floor in the dado. To layout the location of the balusters I measured the distance between the newel posts. To that distance I added the width of one baluster, then divided that by the number of balusters + 1. That result is the centerline of the balusters. I marked out those locations with a set of dividers, then transferred the pencil marks to the top railing.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Soof6KWc2go/UtcdypzGeLI/AAAAAAAAI-I/0E4fyTCtTSo/s400/IMG_3073.JPG
I should back up a minute to talk about how the railings are installed. After the section is cut to final length, I drilled a hole about 5/8" deep in the dado section of the bottom of the rail, then routed a dado from the hole to the end of the rail. The bolts are 1/4" x 3" long Spax lag screws.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WVqnRwc2Ecc/UtcdzvIX3HI/AAAAAAAAI-Q/k7tJUF9FOv8/s400/IMG_3074.JPG
Next I drilled holes into the newel posts for the rail bolts and started them into the holes. I pre-installed the rail, measured the length for each baluster, and cut them to final length. Then I put the rail over the balusters and bolts, and tightened the bolts with an open ended wrench.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-brSksvhwKpU/Utcd14oJ_HI/AAAAAAAAI-s/cO-RLy5HVso/s400/IMG_3078.JPG
Then I cut and installed the fillets between the balusters. The length of the fillets is just the distance between the newel posts minus the aggregate width of the balusters divided by the number of balusters + 1. You might have to make a small adjustment to last piece, but not much. Anyway, I cut them taking care to keep them in order, then fit them into each opening as necessary.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8s51e1hJ4-I/UtceDBvjo4I/AAAAAAAAJAg/8w-vhep_kJE/s400/IMG_3093.JPG
The bottom ones were installed just with pin nails, the upper ones with pin nails and glue. The fillets not only cover the lag screws that secure the rail to the newel posts, but they also prevent the rail from being pulled up off the bolts.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Dc8OHmheeD4/Utcd3rtTjgI/AAAAAAAAI-4/KQ-26GvFYmA/s400/IMG_3080.JPG
The stairs were a mess. The homeowner said he would rebuild them, and with some direction this is what it looked like after he did.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Hg9aQUPjXW4/Utcd8tXbMdI/AAAAAAAAI_o/s7kNfo7DYOo/s400/IMG_3086.JPG
Still ugly, but a whole bunch better. The bolt on the first tread was a real pain. I ended up having to cut off a couple of inches, which is not an easy task; those things are hard. I ended up cutting it off with an abrasive wheel. I also had to over bore the hole to keep the joist from splitting, so I glued the bolt in place and let it set overnight before installing the newel post. Fortunately, it was good and solid. The bolt at the top step was installed at an angle into the blocking underneath, and then bent straight up for the newel post could fit over it properly. The top step is higher than the base of the other newels, so I had to cut it off so that the top would be level with the others. The newel on the first step had to be cut off by the same amount. That completed the installation of the posts.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ksCVDtzQJ2g/UtceA_VLIpI/AAAAAAAAJAQ/ERbeYGg14p0/s400/IMG_3091.JPG
The bottom trim plate had to be cut to fit up over the top step. The rails and balusters were installed in each section the same as before.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C49vtmuZLeo/UtceD156r4I/AAAAAAAAJAo/Iz9lyx2t6mQ/s400/IMG_3094.JPG
The cut angle for the rail on the steps was marked by clamping straight edges where the rail would be located and marking directly on the rail. Then I aligned the miter saw by pivoting it until the laser was parallel with the marked line, and cut the rail.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O1GV6T0TFDE/UtceFtpScWI/AAAAAAAAJA8/enhTGE38ORg/s400/IMG_3096.JPG
The rail was bolted in the same way as the others, but I also glued it to the newel posts for some added security. I used the new slow set super glue sold by Rockler (can't remember the name). It's nice stuff, plenty of time to reposition things and then in 3 or 4 minutes it's set solid. I plan to use it to glue the main stair rail sections together when I install them. Finally, the balusters were marked and cut to length and installed.
So, here it is all done upstairs.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YsSss94XyFw/UtceJ7rZM3I/AAAAAAAAJBg/g9spxqSn-nQ/s400/IMG_3101.JPG
Sorry to be so long winded. It took 2-1/2 days to do this. Installing a balustrade may seem rather intimidating, but it's not really all that hard. If you've thought about doing it but hesitated, maybe this will help show you it's a doable project and doesn't require a lot of tools.
Thanks for looking.
John