Am i missing something? Carvex DC not so good...

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys!

At first I resisted the urge to buy the Carvex. Then I saw some demos. The main thing that sold me was the strobe and improved visibility of the cut line. That was my only issue with my Trion. DC with the Trion was not impeccable, but certainly better than nothing.

I've just used my Carvex for the second time. The very first cut was incredibly messy. Dust wise that is. Then I checked my CT22 bag... Completely overfilled. Changed the bag. Noticeable difference, but not what I've come to expect from the masters of awesome tools that suck our pocket books as well as they suck dust.

I also ordered the Carvex accessory kit. Is there supposed to be some sort of chip guard that covers the front like the Trion?

I should've asked earlier, but I'm just getting to the Carvex part of my current project. My Trion is on eBay set to sell in just a couple of hours.

Any thoughts on this?

[Greg R Bradley]

Yes, but you may not like it.

Take the Trion off eBay and keep it.

Optionally, Buy a Bosch 1390 or 1391 with the dust collection, either by buying it in the EVSL kit or buy the dust collection attachement seperately. Use the Trion or the 1390/1390 as the two best jigsaws around. Bosch slightly preferable for heavier work, Trion slightly preferably for fine work. Both use same blades.

Return the Carvex before your 30 days are up.

[Michael Dunn]

Bummer… I just tried to cancel the listing. I can't because there is less than 12 hours left. ARGH!!! What should I do!?! I mean I like the way the Carvex cuts. The exchangeable bases are wicked awesome. I have plenty of time until the 30 days are up. 23 days left I believe. I had the Trion without the D type handle. I order the Carvex with the D handle. I don't think I like this handle. I may switch versions. I do mostly fine work so the Festool saw is best for me. Maybe my eBay buyer and I can agree to cancel the transaction.

[Max Neu]

Personally,I like the Carvex better than the trion,neither one dust collects that well,I think that is just the nature of jigsaws.The bases are awesome for the Carvex,plus I could never see what I was cutting with the trion.I haven't touched my trion since I got the Carvex.

[John Schweikert]

I have the Carvex and it does fine, much better than the Bosch with all the dust attachments that I had. It's the nature of the beast, jigsaws are just not the equivalent to track saws or other tools with very high dust collection. Circular saw blades force dust in a certain direction where the hose can easily carry it off. A jigsaw blade does nothing to aid in the process of dust collection.

The quality of the cut, the strobe LEDs and accuracy of the Carvex are better than I ever experienced before.

I think for dust collection in any jigsaw to be top shelf, the collection would need to be much closer to the cut itself. Also no matter what, there are plenty of open air gaps around the Carvex cutting containment area but still better than other jigsaws.

[Bijesh Jacob]

Is there supposed to be some sort of chip guard that covers the front like the Trion?

Any thoughts on this?

As other said dust collection on any jigsaw is difficult but my Trion is way better than my Bosch. But to your question above I believe there should be a sliding clear guard on the Carvex.

[Michael Dunn]

So I was cutting some large half laps (of sorts...) in 1-1/2" hickory yesterday. To the right of the blade cutting was almost dead on square. Then I moved to the left side of the 1/2 lap and over the 1-1/2" depth of cut it's 1/8" out of square. What the crap? I checked with a reliable square and with the saw upside down and the teeth facing me to the right of the blade was dead on square. To the left was way out. The blades are brand new and dead flat and straight.

To me this means that that side of the base is jacked up. I'm returning the Carvex and getting a new one with the other handle style as I'm certain the D handle is not for me.

My eBay buyer and I agreed to cancel the transaction.

I'm hoping that it is just the base on this particular Carvex. I really enjoy the strobe. I can really see the cut line.

I think the twist and pop out blade is ridiculous!!! Now I have to take out the splinter guard every time I change the blade!?!? Bogus!!!

[John Schweikert]

I completely agree on the new blade lock mechanism, I hate it. I can't get the small metal cutting blades to mount at all because of the force required to twist the blade to lock. But that has been my only issue.

I do think Festool shouldn't espouse the Carvex being a magical perfect vertical cutting tool. Jigsaws have thin blades and no support past the base so flex and out of square is realistically possible. Advertising otherwise creates the wrong expectations.

Using even the slightest excess force when making a cut can lead to jigsaw blade flex, either because of grain or the smallest misdirection when pushing.

[John Downey]

So I was cutting some large half laps (of sorts...) in 1-1/2" hickory yesterday. To the right of the blade cutting was almost dead on square. Then I moved to the left side of the 1/2 lap and over the 1-1/2" depth of cut it's 1/8" out of square. What the crap? I checked with a reliable square and with the saw upside down and the teeth facing me to the right of the blade was dead on square. To the left was way out. The blades are brand new and dead flat and straight.

To me this means that that side of the base is jacked up. I'm returning the Carvex and getting a new one with the other handle style as I'm certain the D handle is not for me.


Do you mean that it is out of square at the bottom of a 1 1/2" deep cut? As I read it, you are finding the cheek of a half lap square at the top where the base of the saw was, but not square 1 1/2" away where the end of the blade was? And was this a ripping cut?

If that is correct, I think you may have unrealistic expectations of the capabilities of any jig saw. Perhaps I've misread the problem though.

[peter gagliardi]

Looks like Festool struck out again on their jigsaw design. I have many of their tools, and in my opinion, the jigsaw is something they just cannot get right! I went back to my Bosch, much more user friendly.

[Rick Christopherson]

Is there supposed to be some sort of chip guard that covers the front like the Trion?It might be a good time to read the manual (http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/Carvex_PS420.pdf). :D:D


http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/graphics/PS420-23.jpg

[Michael Dunn]

It might be a good time to read the manual (http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/Carvex_PS420.pdf). :D:D

Ha!!! Lol! I was in such a hurry between projects. Normally I read the manuals while the items are in transit. Been too busy. Guess I should've made time. Duh! Thanx Rick!!! What a dufus I am!

[Rick Christopherson]

Michael, you did notice that that was a link to the supplemental manual, didn't you? It covers many of the possible issues you might be experiencing. The jigsaws are actually a little more complex than one would first think.

[Michael Dunn]

Michael, you did notice that that was a link to the supplemental manual, didn't you? It covers many of the possible issues you might be experiencing. The jigsaws are actually a little more complex than one would first think.

No, I didn't. I skimmed over your post and saw the pic. I'll digest this tonight. Thanx!!!

[Mike Henderson]

I have a Carvex and one thing that's tricky is how to push down the chip guard in front of the saw. I tried using two fingers and pushing down on both sides (where Rick has the arrow from the words "Chip Guard" in his picture, and on the opposite side). No, that won't work. You have to use one finger (or thumb) and push down in the center of the guard (where Rick has the arrow from "slide" in his picture). It just won't move, otherwise.

That was not obvious to me since they have ridges on the sides of the chip guard, that look like they're there to give you a grip with your fingers.

In general, however, I like the tool.

Mike

[Mark Wooden]

..........If that is correct, I think you may have unrealistic expectations of the capabilities of any jig saw. Perhaps I've misread the problem though.

I agree with John, it's a jig saw, not a band saw (which is only a little more precise). It sounds like the work you describe would really be best done on a tablesaw. Dust collection? Yes, it's a good thing, but if dust is gonna freak you out, get outta the work your doing- cutting wood will make dust, wear a mask.

I really get a kick out of that Carvex ad where the guy is cutting a mitre across a piece of 1 x with a jig saw. Seriously? Don't get me wrong, I love gadgetry as much as the next guy, but I'll cut them with a handsaw before I'll reach for a jigsaw. I used a Festool jigsaw once a few years back and I like my Bosch's better. YMMV;)

[Max Neu]

Michael,
Maybe this was already mentioned,but did you check to make sure the blade guides are adjusted properly?If they are too loose,it will allow the blade to flex more.

[Michael Dunn]

So I just read thought the supp manual. I adjusted my blade guides. I haven't made test cut yet, however, the blade is now square to both sides of the base plate. I'm still a bit confused as to how one side could be square and the other was not. Oh well, it seems to be all good now.

Thanx guys! Sorry you had to do my research for me. I've been a bit overloaded.

[Rick Christopherson]

I'm still a bit confused as to how one side could be square and the other was not. Oh well, it seems to be all good now.
In all likelihood, when you switched from the right to left side, you inadvertently added a lateral bias to the motion of the saw. However, there is also grain orientation that can cause a blade to drift. For example, when making a rip cut and the grain is near parallel to the path but slightly off, the tip of the blade will deflect slightly as it tends to follow into the softer wood and stay away from the harder wood.

By the way, when Carvex was just getting introduced, a lot of dealers and reviewers were over-emphasizing the blade guide adjustment. This over-emphasis was causing new users to assume the guides had to be very precise and near snug for normal use. This hype needs to be tempered a little bit. For normal cutting in 3/4" material, the guides can be relatively loose (not sloppy, just not super tight). It is the deep cuts where the guides become more important.

[Michael Dunn]

I see what you're saying, but before adjusting the guides I checked the blade for squareness against the base plate. One side was in, the other was out an 1/8" over 1-1/2". I checked with several brand new blades.

[Rick Christopherson]

Let me know if you are still seeing that. I will help you troubleshoot it.

[Michael Dunn]

Let me know if you are still seeing that. I will help you troubleshoot it.

Will do. I'll try to test it on some scrap before I leave. Thanx!

[John Downey]

I see what you're saying, but before adjusting the guides I checked the blade for squareness against the base plate. One side was in, the other was out an 1/8" over 1-1/2". I checked with several brand new blades.

If you are checking the blade to the plate on each side and getting this result, then the plate must not be flat. It was not clear to me in the initial post that you were checking the tool rather than the wood you had cut with it.

[Michael Dunn]

It's perfect now.

When I first made the cuts I checked the wood. The right side was near perfection. The left side was out by 1/8" over 1-1/2". So I checked the blade to the base. Exactly the same result.

Then I adjusted the guides. Problem solved in the workpiece and the from the blade to the base.

[Jason White]

How's the dust collection now that you know how to slide down the chip guard?


It's perfect now.

When I first made the cuts I checked the wood. The right side was near perfection. The left side was out by 1/8" over 1-1/2". So I checked the blade to the base. Exactly the same result.

Then I adjusted the guides. Problem solved in the workpiece and the from the blade to the base.

[Michael Dunn]

How's the dust collection now that you know how to slide down the chip guard?

Much better! Impressive I'd say. Right now the blade release is my only beef with this otherwise very well designed saw. I don't like that I have to remove the splinter guard. Largely because it fits so tight that I can't remove it without a flat head driver. Oh well

[John Schweikert]

Michael

I find it faster to remove the base with the quick release to change blades than to remove the splinter guard. Glad it's working better for you.

[Michael Dunn]

Michael I find it faster to remove the base with the quick release to change blades than to remove the splinter guard. Glad it's working better for you.

Great idea! Much faster for sure.

[Jason White]

That's probably true with any splinter guard. I can't eject blades on my Bosch without first removing it.



Much better! Impressive I'd say. Right now the blade release is my only beef with this otherwise very well designed saw. I don't like that I have to remove the splinter guard. Largely because it fits so tight that I can't remove it without a flat head driver. Oh well

[Michael Dunn]

Not so with the Trion. It had a lever that you release and then you easily pull or drop the blade right out through even a freshly cut splinter guard. -10pts for Festool on this one. They tried to reinvent the wheel. That aspect of the saw needed no modification. Although, someone here did suggest to remove the base which is just as easy as removing the blade on the Trion, so I guess I have nothing to complain about.