New Jessem Paralign Doweling jig mod.

[Bill Huber]

The current project I am doing has a bunch of dowels and they are all from the end of the board.

So you set the jig on the board and line it up with the end of the board, feel the edge and make sure they are even. This is no problem but you have to feel for end of the board and the edge of the jig to make sure they are even, little over move it back, little under and move it out, this does take a little time, not a lot but it takes some time and when you have a lot to do it adds up.

This little mod takes care of that, just rotate the stop down, move the jig to the end of the board and lock it down, takes no time at all and is very accurate, I think a little more accurate then just feeling for the edge. I have one on each side of the jig so I can come for either end of the board and I don't have to take them off when I move down a board.

The jig uses 1/4 x 20 threads for the rods for spacing. I went though my junk and pulled out 2 hex socket head cap screws, 2 heavy springs, 2 washers and a L bracket from something.

Cut the flat parts off the L bracket, sand them flat on the back. Installed the flat part, spring, washer and the cap screws and that is about it. It could be made to look a lot nicer but this was the stuff I had on hand without going and buying something.

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[Phil Thien]

Very clever (as always) Bill.

Was the jig already drilled/tapped?

On the jig I got from you I use the aluminum dowel pins for edge referencing. Not as good as your solution (because I lose a hole), but still not terrible.

[Bill Huber]

Very clever (as always) Bill.

Was the jig already drilled/tapped?



The holes are there to start, they are for the spacing rods when you are spacing it down the side of a board.

The speed advantage is really something, I didn't think it would be that much but I did a bunch today and wow was it faster, just put it on and move it to the stop and drill.

[Phil Thien]

The speed advantage is really something, I didn't think it would be that much but I did a bunch today and wow was it faster, just put it on and move it to the stop and drill.

Yep. And more accurate, too. Using your finger or a straight-edge just isn't as reliable.

[Bill Huber]

One thing I did notice this morning is the backer block can move a little side to side so you want to make sure it is in the center or it will hang over a little one one side or the other and interfere with the stop.

[Loren Woirhaye]

I've noticed with that jig the block can get off by perhaps 1/64th either way so you have to be observant. Good idea Bill. Maybe adaptable to line up the backer block too, though usually I put the jig on its side on a machine table while tightening the screws to set the block.

[Bill Huber]

I've noticed with that jig the block can get off by perhaps 1/64th either way so you have to be observant. Good idea Bill. Maybe adaptable to line up the backer block too, though usually I put the jig on its side on a machine table while tightening the screws to set the block.

I never have worried about the back block until now, I just use the main body to line things up. Why would you worry about it in normal use?

[Loren Woirhaye]

It's easier to trust my fingers if the block and the body are matched up. The chamfers throw me off a little. Sometimes I've used the tool to flush join edgebanded material to fine tolerances and used a saddle square indexed off the block where there isn't interference from the bushings.