Hand plane blade - not square

[Bob Savage]

So I decided it's time to try planes for some tasks instead of using sandpaper for everything, and bought a Nie Nielsen 102 low angle plane (bronze). I'm brand new to using these and after struggling to get it to cut evenly on both sides, even with the blade completely cocked to one side, I threw a square on the sharp side of the blade and sure enough, it's not square, thus the right side is cutting deeper than the left.

Quite frankly, I'm a bit disappointed to receive a new blade that's out of square but moving on, are there any tricks to get it back in square? I'm not an experienced tool sharpener though I do OK, but the task of squaring and resharpening this blade has me a little intimidated, aside from not wanting to waste hours squaring a new blade.

Any advice? Should I just contact Lie Nielsen and and for an exchange on the blade? Is this "normal?"

Thanks in advance.

[Andrew Fleck]

Bob,
Repost this in the Neanderthal section and those guys there can give you way better advice than I could!

[Mark Engel]

You should contact Lie Nielsen. The iron that came with your plane should be square to the sides. I would expect no less from a premium plane.

And, I agree with Andrew.

[Bob Savage]

Thanks Andrew.

Admins, if the double post isn't OK, go ahead and nuke this one.

[Bob Savage]

You should contact Lie Nielsen. The iron that came with your plane should be square to the sides. I would expect no less from a premium plane.

And, I agree with Andrew.

You know what, I agree. I'm not even going to attempt it, even though I want to get cutting with this darned thing. I just sent an email to LN.

Thanks guys.

[Stephen Cherry]

It's pretty easy. First, sharpie the back of the blade black near the tip. Next, take the scratcher from your starrett combination square, and draw a line square across the ink, as close to the tip as possible.

Next, take one of these:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/400/03A21.jpg

and grind of the metal until it is strait, using whatever you have. Sandpaper will work fine. Then hone, and use. Sharpening is part of using a plane; it's the unavoidable reality. For honing, I use 5 steps, - 3 grades of diamond stones, then spyderco ceramic stone, then a final strop with rouge on a piece of plywood. Sounds like a lot, but it's no problem to get a yardsale plane usable in 15 minutes.

For the back- never, ever use a coarse abrasive, unless it need flattening. I start at the ceramic stone on the back.

So, yes, the edge should have been square. But, it's your plane and you need to know how to square it.

[Mark Engel]

It's pretty easy. First, sharpie the back of the blade black near the tip. Next, take the scratcher from your starrett combination square, and draw a line square across the ink, as close to the tip as possible.

Next, take one of these:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/400/03A21.jpg

and grind of the metal until it is strait, using whatever you have. Sandpaper will work fine. Then hone, and use. Sharpening is part of using a plane; it's the unavoidable reality. For honing, I use 5 steps, - 3 grades of diamond stones, then spyderco ceramic stone, then a final strop with rouge on a piece of plywood. Sounds like a lot, but it's no problem to get a yardsale plane usable in 15 minutes.

For the back- never, ever use a coarse abrasive, unless it need flattening. I start at the ceramic stone on the back.

So, yes, the edge should have been square. But, it's your plane and you need to know how to square it.

I agree with everything that Stephen has said here, if you are working with a used or 'low end' plane. But most people buy premium planes, new, expecting that everything will be almost 'ready to go'. I'll bet that Lie Nielsen will make this right. They have a reputation for producing very high quality products. I would think that this out of square iron is just an anomaly that they will want to correct to maintain that reputation.

[Bob Savage]

Thanks for the tips, Stephen. Much appreciated.

[Bob Savage]

Alright, ordered the guide you have pictured there. I was thinking about the Veritas MK II when I bought the plane and water stones but didn't want to spend another $65+.

Thanks again...

[Andrew Hughes]

I'll be in my shop most of the day tomorrow and Sunday if you want to taken a drive.I can help you out with that wonky blade,I am in claremont.

[johnny means]

Is the adjustment mech working correctly? Do you get the full range of adjustment?

[Bob Savage]

I'll be in my shop most of the day tomorrow and Sunday if you want to taken a drive.I can help you out with that wonky blade,I am in claremont.

That's very cool of you Andrew. Fortunately, I have a guy locally that's offered to show me the ropes of honing as well but I really appreciate the offer.

[Bob Savage]

Is the adjustment mech working correctly? Do you get the full range of adjustment?

Yes, the adjustment is definitely working, it just won't cut evenly across the blade because it's out of square.

[Stephen Cherry]

If you are just getting started with hand tools, and you are interested, I would recomend going to a hand tool event:
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/events/usa/

I've been to a few of these, and there have been very knowledgeable people there, ready to answer any question and to demonstrate the tools and their use. You also get to try things out to see if you like them.

[Jim Matthews]

It's an excellent starter plane, but the blade isn't very broad.

Most of my plane blades have a slightly curved profile (camber) so that the sides
ride above the board as I take a shaving. That keeps one edge from digging in too deeply.

I have to wonder if the blade supplied was purposely ground this way.

This comprehensive video from Phil Lowe explains the notion that escaped me for my first three years.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/the-proper-camber-on-a-handplane-blade.aspx

The pertinent observation to your problem is at 3:58 of the video.

When I want to take a very flat shaving, I use a chisel or scraper.