fine tune the glass door method ?

[andy photenas]

ok so there is a lot about making glass doors on the site here. If the answer to this is on there and i missed it im sorry for the repost.
I am building a kitchen and 2 of the doors are glass the rest raised panel. This means i have to use a normal rail and stile bit set. I looked for a bit set that has a way to change the rail and stile bit to make the rabit around the back of the door for the glass but cant seem to find any, does anyone know of a bit set like that ? (i dont mean the ones made for glass as they dont make raised panels)
The only other way i can think of that seems reasonable to me is to rout out the back of the framed door after its together.
The problem i run into here is blowout, when i run my rails and stiles the first thing i do before putting them on the shaper is to check grain direction and make sure is going the right way for the cut on the shaper profile. This makes for super smooth pro looking edges on all doors BUT it puts the grain in exactly the wrong direction for routing from the back! at this point i have ruined 2 doors and looking for any advice ?
I thought of doing stop blind table saw cuts to get it but thts kinda risky too i feel.
ohh and im using a brand new shear cut rabbiting bit for this.

[Sam Murdoch]

You are exactly right with your concerns about blowout with the router after the doors are assembled. I usually run the rail rabbet through and do the stop rabbet on the TS or router table as you describe. Not the best -safety wise - but manageable.

If you choose to rabbet after assembly my discovered technique to prevent tear out (in any edge router situation) is twofold. 1) Run the rabbet in 2 passes with the first pass being no more than 1/2 the finished dimension. 2) Don't start in one corner and run the router around the entire perimeter but rather start at the end and just take out a few inches at each time. With each 2" pass you are then routing into the empty space of the last pass. Tear out is non existent this way (except in the very gnarliest woods).

[Jeff Duncan]

They are much easier to do with the multi piece shaper cutter sets than router bits…..but you still may be able to do them. If you have a set of bits where you can remove the individual cutters, and thereby re-arrange them, then you may be able to route the glass door parts separately. I haven't run them on a router in years so can't say for sure, but seems like it could be done?

good luck,
JeffD

[Peter Quinn]

I do a stop rabbit on the stiles, rip the moldings off the rails, and rip the molding off the bars if those exist, all on the TS. It helps to have a knee kick switch to shut the saw off at the end of the stop cut, lifting small parts off a spinning blade can get dicey. Keep in mind you only have about 3/16" blade I the wood. You could also do it on a router table or shaper by putting stops and starts on a long fence, plunge in, pull out at the end. Maybe a bit safer?

[Peter Quinn]

I should add that for cabinet doors my sets have a glass rabbit cutter, add that to the sticking and change up the cope to match, it's easy as pie, but I still rip the back molding off on small bars, no good way I've found to get small parts past a 4-5" cutter head with no snipe or chatter. For double sides doors I use the rip off molding method, but it works fine for cabinet sets if required.

[Lee Schierer]

I do a stop rabbit on the stiles, rip the moldings off the rails, and rip the molding off the bars if those exist, all on the TS. It helps to have a knee kick switch to shut the saw off at the end of the stop cut, lifting small parts off a spinning blade can get dicey. Keep in mind you only have about 3/16" blade I the wood. You could also do it on a router table or shaper by putting stops and starts on a long fence, plunge in, pull out at the end. Maybe a bit safer?

DANGER....Never ever try to lift a part off a moving blade. It is a good way to lose a finger. Also never set a part down on a moving blade it is just as dangerous. Instead when the cut is done lower the blade and/or turn off the saw. To start a blind cut raise the lowered blade into the part after the part is positioned and the saw is started. TO get precise depths, set the desired cut height and then count the number of turns of the raise/lower handle until the teeth are below the table. Then just count the same number of turns to raise the blade back up.

[andy photenas]

Thanks guys for all the answers! i have a jet shaper/router table if what u say about shapers is true i may just need to step it up and learn the new shaper setup running one bit that made the right shape would be much faster and come out better as the grain will be in the right direction.
just wanted to add that for this job im stuck routing the back and i learned if i use a 1/2 rabbit it goes 1/8 past the original groove for the panel and this seems to really smooth out the cut for some reason.