PDA

View Full Version : Bandsaw Blade Tracking Problem



Clay Crocker
01-06-2014, 4:36 PM
I have a Grizzly G0514X2B 19" bandsaw that has given me fits while trying to get a new blade to track properly. I have had this saw for 2 years and I had been running a 1" Timber Wolf, steel, 3 TPI blade on the saw for quite some time; since this blade was getting a little tired I decided yesterday to install a new 1" Timber Wolf, bi-metal, 1 TPI blade to tackle a pile of resawing for my current project. Right off the bat I could tell there was a problem since I had to crank the tracking knob in quite a bit to get the blade to track on the center of the upper wheel. Then I noticed that even with the blade tracking in the center of the upper wheel the blade was not tracking in the center of the lower wheel. The blade was tracking way forward (away from the body of the saw) on the lower wheel; so much so that the tips of the blade were overhanging past the edge of the lower wheel by about 3/16". In fact, the blade was riding so far forward on the lower wheel that when the lower door was closed the tips of the teeth would clear the door lip by only about 1/16"!!! No matter what I did with the tracking adjustment on the upper wheel the new blade would ride forward on the lower wheel. BTW, I had the upper and lower guides pulled all the way back and out of the way and all tracking was checked while spinning the wheels by hand since I did not want to chance catching the blade's teeth on the door lip when I fired up the motor.

I decided I needed to check to see if the wheels were aligned properly so I made a "Coplanarity Gauge" to check if the the wheels were coplanar. With the new blade installed and under tension and tracking in the center of the upper wheel I found that the gauge was about an inch away from touching the lower wheel when laid across the upper wheel. Next, I adjusted the tracking knob on the upper wheel until the upper wheel was parallel with the lower wheel and found that the gauge would lay flat across both wheels indicating that the wheels were parallel and coplanar. With this tracking setting the blade was riding forward on both the upper and lower wheels and the teeth were overhanging both wheels about 1/4". With the blade tracking in this manner the teeth would catch the lower door lip when the door was closed. Just for grins I decided to put the old blade back on the saw to compare how it tracked. Turned out that the old blade tracked just fine. With the blade centered on both wheels I found that the wheels were nearly parallel and coplanar.

The new blade "looks" perfect; it lays flat on my assembly table and the weld looks straight and well ground to my untrained eye. I called Grizzly technical support and talked it over with Justin there. I explained everything I had done and seen and asked if he had any recommendations as far as anything else I should look at. I bought this blade from Grizzly, so he recommended that I return the blade and they would send me a replacement. So now I am just waiting for an email from Grizzly with my return shipping label; so no resawing for a least a few days. I searched past threads and found quite a few on bandsaw tracking and coplanarity but none specific to my issue. Has anyone else been unable to get a wide blade like this to track properly? The difference in tracking between the two 1" blades I have is like night and day. Can anyone think of something I may have overlooked?

Thanks,

Clay

Erik Loza
01-06-2014, 5:07 PM
Clay, does your machine have crowned tires or flat tires? I am not familiar with that particular unit.

Thanks,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Clay Crocker
01-06-2014, 5:12 PM
Erik,

Crowned.

Clay

Jim Matthews
01-06-2014, 6:49 PM
I have a similar problem with a MM20.

I think the problem is in maintaining tension when the blade is hot.
If I feed too fast, I get a bowed (or curved) cut in boards "taller" than 8 inches.

It doesn't much matter how thick the resawn section is, feedrate is always less than I would expect.

I know there's a spring designed to take up some of this slack, but I'm suspicious of this as the culprit.
I don't have this tracking problem with blades less than 1/2" thick.

If your blade is slack, the crowning effect should lead the blade to travel to the highest point.

If the blade is slipping (because it has become loose, or is too large) - other forces can overcome the crowning effect.
http://www.lhup.edu/~dsimanek/scenario/crowning.htm

I had my stock blade shortened by 2" and now it tracks much better.

Jim Rimmer
01-07-2014, 1:51 PM
If your previous 1" blade tracked good and this 1" blade doesn't, I would suspect the blade. I know it's a killer to wait but I would put money on the new blade solving the issue.

Gus Dundon
01-07-2014, 2:32 PM
Not sure if dirty wheels will affect the blade tracking but they said sawdust build up might cause the blade to wander too.

Clay Crocker
01-07-2014, 2:40 PM
Gus,

Wheels are clean so I don't think that is the problem.

Jim R.,

At this point I have to agree that it must be the blade. I'm shipping the blade back to Grizzly today. I will be interested to see how the replacement blade tracks.

Thanks for the replies!

Clay

Curt Harms
01-09-2014, 8:25 AM
It the replacement blade from Griz doesn't track right either, maybe consider a blade from a different supplier? I've never had a blade from Grizzly, good or bad but that'd be one thing to change to see if it makes a difference.

Clay Crocker
01-09-2014, 9:44 AM
Curt, you read my mind, I already ordered a Lenox Woodmaster CT which is scheduled for delivery today. :)

Clay Crocker
01-09-2014, 2:39 PM
Well, I got my new Lenox Woodmaster CT blade installed today and it tracks beautifully. Adjusted the tension and set all the guide bearings and then test cut a piece of poplar, WOW! Like a hot knife through butter.