Table saw depth issue

[Jay Caunars]

I have a Delta 36-979 contractor saw and had removed the table top & trunnion together (never separating the two) from the base for adjustments that I couldn't seem to achieve otherwise. The saw was reassembled without a problem. When I inserted a new zero clearance insert to cut I realized the blade wouldn't lower itself enough to clear the bottom of the insert. The maxium raised height of the arbor above the table top is 3 7/16" & maxium bottom adjustment is only 1/4" below the surface of the table top, not clearing the insert supports within the throat. The arbor shaft spacer is against the tie bar in the lowered position & I can't possibly see any other adjustments to lower it further. Is this an acceptable distance for the arbor to be in when bottemed out?

The last time I had to cut a new insert was six years ago & I dont remember this being an issue.

[johnny means]

Every saw I've ever worked on just barely lowers the blade below the surface of the table. Seems normal to me.

[Jerry Miner]

This is normal. There are a couple (ok, 3) ways to get the initial cut into the ZCI.

1. Put an 8" blade on the saw and raise it up while the saw is on (with a board clamped over it)

2. Use the leveling screws (or similar screws of greater length) to lift the ZCI high enough to clear the blade and make the cut there, then lower to the normal position (with the saww off, of course)

3. Double-stick tape the ZCI to an existing insert plate and raise the blade through it (with a bord clamped over it)

You only need to get the blade to just break through the surface for the initial cut. Then install into position, with the full-size blade, to complete the process.

[Jay Caunars]

Thanks for the insight, guys. Like I mentioned earlier, it's been awhile since I've done this & it just seemed a bit awkward. Thank you both for the reassurance.

[Charles Lent]

I prefer using a smaller blade. I use a 7 1/4" from my circular saw on my Unisaw to cut the initial kerfs, then repeat the cut using a 10" blade. I feel better keeping the ZCI flush with the table and doing it this was as opposed to the other methods, but here is one additional way to do it that I haven't used, but it was suggested by a friend.

Use a plunge router and guide with a 1/4" bit to cut a shallow mortise in the bottom of the ZCI where the blade will be located. A depth of about 1/2 the thickness is usually all that is necessary for the saw blade to clear. Then install the ZCI in your table saw and clamp it in place, then start the saw and raise the blade up through the ZCI.
I still prefer using the smaller saw blade, but this way should work too.

Charley

[Mark Wooden]

I use an 8" dado set set up to 1/2" to 3/4", position the fence over the edge and hold the other side with a board and raise the blades to about a 7/16" depth. This allows all my blades enough clearance to finish the cut. The extra clearance makes room for the blade flange or stabilizers or if I need to tilt the blade a little.

[Dave Richards]

Since my dado set blades and other smaller diameter blades create wider kerfs than my 10" blades, I just rip a groove down the length of the ZCI before I set it down in the recess. I make the groove just deep enough to allow the 10" blade to clear when the ZCI is installed. Although I've never had a problem due to the groove, you could fill the ends of it with a bit of epoxy.