Starting a woodworking hobby, help me spend $400-500

[Anthony Rausch]

Hello all,

I want to start getting into woodworking for relatively simple furniture projects around the house and to give people functional gifts (cutting boards, serving trays, etc.)

Here is what I own so far.

Drills
7-1/4" Ryobi Circular Saw
12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Harbor Freight
Black and Decker Rotary tool (maybe for some detail etching?I've only cut corners in wall tile with it)
Black and Decker Matrix Jigsaw (http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/BDCMTJS.aspx)
Dewalt Random Orbit 5" Sander
Rigid Reciprocating Saw
Various clamps, levels, squares
A hand plane that a very thoughtful SMC member is trading with me to help get me started into hand planes.

This is what my thoughts are for my next two purchases.

Rigid R4512 Table Saw (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206)

A router, something around $100. I'm mainly just looking to do roundovers, maybe do simple rabbets for bookshelves, nothing too extravagant until I feel I'm a little more skilled at using it. I was planning on just clamping straightedges to my work as guides for the router as this is just a hobby and production speed isn't critical.

Is there really anything in this price range given what I currently own that can compete with that table saw? I really like the Herc-u-lift system as my plan is to store this in a corner of my garage below some low hanging cabinets (below 5' clearance). I was initially looking at the DWE7480 but I think the extra stability and table surface the rigid provides is well worth the few extra $$. I won't be moving this thing up or down stairs or in and out of a car, just in and out of a corner as I use it. I'm not interested in hunting for craigslist ads at the moment, I don't know enough about old table saws to rehab one, and I'd like a warranty on what I

There are a lot of threads where track saws enter the equation and how the person interested in a table saw should consider a track saw system. From my research it seems to just get STARTED into track saws is basically about $600 for just the track saw and some track, and if you want to use the EZ system to use on your circular saw, it might run slightly cheaper, but if you want to get one of those repeaters to make quick repetitive cuts, or with festool the MFT table. the price adds up pretty quickly.

So basically my question is for $400-500 is table saw vs GCSS an apples to apples comparison? Or is the entry budget level a little higher for a GCSS to begin to enter the discussion.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hello Anthony, if you're looking to spend around $500 for a tablesaw, find a good condition used cast iron saw for slightly more, or less.

Although a router may look like something you need, I've been in the hobby 40 years and don't have one.

Your next needs are going to be a jointer and planer so you can surface and dimension rough wood, and of course hand tools.

Planes and sandpaper make great round overs without a router............Regards, Rod.

[phil harold]

Just buy a lathe and then 500 bucks will seem like peanuts
after you get caught in the vortex

[Lee Reep]

Oh so true... In the past month I bought more lathe tools, a Beall collet chuck and collets, more jaws for the Nova chucks (have 2, considering a 3rd), a two more custom tool rests. Had to keep the purchases in check, since I just started investing in Festool products the prior month.

Whoever said they would not know what to do with a million dollars obviously had no hobbies ...

[Jon Shank]

Heh, Phil up above speaks the truth. If you want to put hobby expenses in perspective buy a lathe!

I only did a couple cuts on it at another guy's shop, but that Rigid is a pretty nice saw. I wasn't very impressed with the fence but it was as good as any other standard fence on a saw in that price range as far as I've seen. Otherwise it felt pretty solid and smooth (hand wheels, base, etc)and seemed a little quieter than most of the other similar saws I've seen. If I found a good deal on a higher end used saw I'd probably go that way too, but that Rigid seemed like a pretty good entry at it's price point. I currently have a lesser TS than the Rigid and I've been saving my pennies and watching for a good deal on a used cabinet saw, but then I went and got a lathe so priorities shifted a little (seriously, it's great fun, but almost devious in it's power to suck in interest and funds)

As far as routers go, I've got a Hitachi I've been very happy with and used Porter Cables that were nice as well. Any of the major brand names are fairly safe bets, but different folks have different likes and dislikes, best to at least try and put your hands on a few to see how they feel, better to try a few out in a friends shops if possible. I'm a fan of the combo base kits, if for no other reason the fixed base lives in the router table and the plunge gets used for handheld cuts. And I use some cheaper tools too, but I would stay away from the bargain basement routers, Harbor Freight and the like. Something spinning a bit that fast should be a good quality tool.

I have to agree with the jointer and planer mention too, they should at least be on the horizon somewhere if you want to get into rough lumber at some point.

Jon

[Stew Hagerty]

For $500 you can find and older saw, or you can get something like this:

278902

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-10-in-contractor-saw-sears-21833/p-00921833000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

I've heard good reviews and it has a riving knife.

Another option, since you already have ways to rip & crosscut, would be to spend the money on several lower priced items.

What about a drill press? It drills holes, of course, but it can be used for joinery, such as: mortice & tenon work; loose tenons; and doweling. Another very nice use is for sanding. Simply chuck in a sanding drum and you have the next best thing to an oscillating spindle sander. You can pick up a decent one for around $350.

Another thought would be a dovetail saw ($69 @ Lee Valley) and a carcase saw ($79 @ Lee Valley). Perhaps basic set of chisels would be an idea too.

Just start working and buy as you go. You will figure out what you really NEED, then buy it.

[John Schweikert]

Just start working and buy as you go. You will figure out what you really NEED, then buy it.

Best advice yet. Each person's needs and projects are not the same. Buy wood with intended projects in mind. If you get stumped not being able to perform certain woodworking tasks and need a tool, that's when you research and buy what fits. It becomes too easy to have a shop full of unused tools because you thought you might some day need the tool.

[Nathan Callender]

Okay, I've rewritten my post several times. Honestly, the best thing you could do right now is to build a real woodworking bench like a nicholson or other classic design. Invest in a good vise (or hardware for leg vise), a good set of bench chisels and a simple sharpening setup and learn how to sharpen. Whether you become a power tool or hand tool person (or both) you will always appreciate a good bench (one that can actually clamp anything at any angle), and having a good plane and chisels is just essential. I wish I would have started this way - it would have saved me months of frustration.

While you are doing that, save up some cash and buy a good table saw or band saw (whatever you think would best fit your needs) if you feel you want to work with power tools. You'll have time to research what you want and possibly find a good deal as well.

[Ole Anderson]

I have a friend that, while saving for a Sawstop TS, is getting by on a track saw and miter saw (ok he drank of the green koolaid). I have the Grizzly track saw with 2 sections of track and the accessories, currently going for $315 delivered, that I am very pleased with. I believe you are on the right track, so to speak, a TS would be your best next purchase and will become the workhorse in your growing shop.

[Lou Ortiz]

I'm sure you'll get a different perspective on essentials from everyone that responds. Just my two cents, but if I was limiting it to $500 I would focus on getting a few essential hand planes (jointer, smoother, scrub), saws (panel, dovetail, tenon), chisels (bench chisel set in metric or standard), and any layout tools for joints that you may need. You should be able to get in there for about $500 and you'd be able to make anything and you'll gain all of the hand tool and sharpening skills that you'll need, even if you have the power tools. If you do go with power, I'd really recommend that you consider the cost of safety, including hearing and lung safety, with decent dust management as an essential consideration. It adds up fast though when you consider dust, tooling, etc. With hand tools, you don't have these issues. I will disagree a bit with Rod on the consideration of a router. It's not essential, but you can actually do a lot with it, including edge jointing.

[Anthony Rausch]

I'm sure you'll get a different perspective on essentials from everyone that responds. Just my two cents, but if I was limiting it to $500 I would focus on getting a few essential hand planes (jointer, smoother, scrub), saws (panel, dovetail, tenon), chisels (bench chisel set in metric or standard), and any layout tools for joints that you may need. You should be able to get in there for about $500 and you'd be able to make anything and you'll gain all of the hand tool and sharpening skills that you'll need, even if you have the power tools. If you do go with power, I'd really recommend that you consider the cost of safety, including hearing and lung safety, with decent dust management as an essential consideration. It adds up fast though when you consider dust, tooling, etc. With hand tools, you don't have these issues. I will disagree a bit with Rod on the consideration of a router. It's not essential, but you can actually do a lot with it, including edge jointing.

Interesting perspective. It appears that a Ryoba Saw (~$50) (http://www.rockler.com/takuma-240mm-ryoba-saw) and a Dozuki Saw (~$40) (http://www.rockler.com/japanese-mini-dozuki-panel-saw) would actually accomplish anything I intended to do on my projects. They take up essentially no space, and are a price that I wouldn't be kicking myself if I happened to not like them or give up this hobby.

My main reasons for wanting to get a table saw was edge jointing capability, because I was worried about ruining my first table by trying to hand plane it with a #4, and its capability to make most of the cuts I would need.

I could get up and running with $100 for those two saws, and a $5 chisel set from harbor freight and start working on my bench.

I had been planning on building a table and a bench out of 2x8 douglas fir (not interested in spending money on more expensive woods until I feel I'm capable enough to give the better woods the crafstmanship I feel they deserve). So all I had intended to use the table saw for was edge jointing the boards, crosscutting would be done on my SCMS. I was going to dowel in the end boards (centers glued, outsides in oval holes, drilled by hand). I was going to hand plane the tops because that wouldn't affect the integrity of the board lamination.

I don't mind spending the extra time doing the work by hand, I'm not interested in production speed, only being satisfied with the end product.

I was feeling pretty confident in the Rigid R4512 table saw that I had picked out, but you definitely have made me reconsider.

[george newbury]

If you take your time and peruse Craigs list, auctions, and the classified section of forums like SMC you should be able to pick up a quality saw when someone upgrades to a SawStop or a high school converts a woodshop to a computer lab.

But I fully agree that a TS is an essential piece. I have been using my Grandfather's 1960 era Delta TS since about 1963 and as sole owner since about 1982. It was the ONLY non hand held tool I had for 35 years. I used it as the workbench for building beds, bookcases, tables over the 35 years. But then my entire workshop was only about 13' x 15' for those years.

[Stew Hagerty]

Interesting perspective. It appears that a Ryoba Saw (~$50) (http://www.rockler.com/takuma-240mm-ryoba-saw) and a Dozuki Saw (~$40) (http://www.rockler.com/japanese-mini-dozuki-panel-saw) would actually accomplish anything I intended to do on my projects. They take up essentially no space, and are a price that I wouldn't be kicking myself if I happened to not like them or give up this hobby.

My main reasons for wanting to get a table saw was edge jointing capability, because I was worried about ruining my first table by trying to hand plane it with a #4, and its capability to make most of the cuts I would need.

I could get up and running with $100 for those two saws, and a $5 chisel set from harbor freight and start working on my bench.

This is just my humble opinion of course, but the two saw you mentioned are both Japanese pull saws. If you have ever used a hand saw before, these work exactly the opposite. That means an additional learning curve. The two saws from Lee Valley that I mentioned in my previous quote are both very high quality saws from one of the best names in the business (you're welcome Tom), they work the same way all western saws work, AND they are just a few bucks more than the saws you mention.

Second, the chisels from HF aren't worth the paper that your $5 bill is made from. Some alternatives might be: While you're at Lee Valley's website looking at their saws check out the Narex 4-piece set for $44.50; or at Woodcraft you can check out their WoodRiver 6-piece Bench chisel set on sale for $59.99 through January 24th; or the 4-piece set of Irwin Blue Chip chisels at Rockler for $46.99.

Of course, then you'll need to learn how to sharpen. I would highly recommend reading "The Perfect Edge" by Ron Hock. Then pick up some decent waterstones or check out the local garage sales for some old oilstones and hone up those chisels. Oh, and just from personal experience... When first learning to sharpen, about the time you think "Man this is SHARP!", that means you're about half way to actually BEING sharp.

As for edge jointing... Unless you're just talking about cleaning up machine marks, that is not what a #4 plane is for. You said you have a circular saw. Simply make something like this:

278966

You can make them in any length. In addition to being great for sheet goods (Note that you need to lay it on an inexpensive sheet of insulation or something else to keep the blade from being damaged), all you need to do to get a glue edge is to clam your stock to the guide and saw away, then lightly (very lightly) clean up any machine marks with your finely tuned #4. Apply glue then clamp up.

BTW, Doug Fir makes a great bench, but I'd skip the breadboard ends. Just do a good job gluing up the top and leave the end grain show. a 2" thick glue-up of nice dry Doug Fir isn't going to warp significantly.

[Pat Barry]

I'd buy the Rigid table saw, in fact I bought an earlier version of it several years ago and have been completely satisfied. I suppose you could try to find a used saw, but at the time I got mine I had had enough of used tools and wanted something new. Outfit it with a nice homemade table saw sled and its a great tool. I even bought a cheap, stacked dado blade set from Rockler and it does a good job for my hobby type needs.

[Anthony Rausch]

This is just my humble opinion of course, but the two saw you mentioned are both Japanese pull saws. If you have ever used a hand saw before, these work exactly the opposite. That means an additional learning curve. The two saws from Lee Valley that I mentioned in my previous quote are both very high quality saws from one of the best names in the business (you're welcome Tom), they work the same way all western saws work, AND they are just a few bucks more than the saws you mention.

Second, the chisels from HF aren't worth the paper that your $5 bill is made from. Some alternatives might be: While you're at Lee Valley's website looking at their saws check out the Narex 4-piece set for $44.50; or at Woodcraft you can check out their WoodRiver 6-piece Bench chisel set on sale for $59.99 through January 24th; or the 4-piece set of Irwin Blue Chip chisels at Rockler for $46.99.

Of course, then you'll need to learn how to sharpen. I would highly recommend reading "The Perfect Edge" by Ron Hock. Then pick up some decent waterstones or check out the local garage sales for some old oilstones and hone up those chisels. Oh, and just from personal experience... When first learning to sharpen, about the time you think "Man this is SHARP!", that means you're about half way to actually BEING sharp.

As for edge jointing... Unless you're just talking about cleaning up machine marks, that is not what a #4 plane is for. You said you have a circular saw. Simply make something like this:

278966

You can make them in any length. In addition to being great for sheet goods (Note that you need to lay it on an inexpensive sheet of insulation or something else to keep the blade from being damaged), all you need to do to get a glue edge is to clam your stock to the guide and saw away, then lightly (very lightly) clean up any machine marks with your finely tuned #4. Apply glue then clamp up.

BTW, Doug Fir makes a great bench, but I'd skip the breadboard ends. Just do a good job gluing up the top and leave the end grain show. a 2" thick glue-up of nice dry Doug Fir isn't going to warp significantly.
Oh the breadboard was about my harvest table.

I went to HF to just test out a japanese pull saw on some 2x4s. I've never really used handsaws so I have no unlearning, only learning. Didn't feel bad but I'm still going to buy a carcase saw to compare.

I was planning on just doweling my first projects to avoid overwhelming myself. That leaves only edge jointing 2x8 ( maybe wider) doug fir. I was going to attempt it with a no. 4 since I'm holding off on a table saw purchase.

So main question is can home depot 2x8 doug fir be jointed on a no. 4 or should I do purchase and learn a no. 7 or get the wood milled at a local shop.

edit: I did not realize a circ saw would get me close to a glue edge. I'll give this a shot thanks for the diagram.

I have a 60tooth avanti finish/ trim blade on it.

I'll give this a go on the fir. I'll just swipe off the rounded edges it comes with. plane off machine marks and glue that sucker up.

Now I have to go purchase the fir and let it acclimate! it's going to be a long few weeks.

[Andrew Joiner]

edit: I did not realize a circ saw would get me close to a glue edge. I'll give this a shot thanks for the diagram.

I have a 60tooth avanti finish/ trim blade on it.

I'll give this a go on the fir. I'll just swipe off the rounded edges it comes with. plane off machine marks and glue that sucker up.

Now I have to go purchase the fir and let it acclimate! it's going to be a long few weeks.

Hi Anthony,
I like your idea of giving it a go. You will learn a lot as you cut that fir. Yes, it's possible to get glue ready surfaces right from the saw without planing. I do it all the time.

Before carbide blades you had to plane or joint edges before edge gluing. When I got my first good carbide blade in 1970 I was amazed at the smoothness of the cut. I tested a glue-up right from the saw and it was fine. I didn't see it in a magazine or hear it from an expert. I just tried it and it worked!

A forum like this can save you a lot on the learning curve. However the down side is you could get so many conflicting opinions that you stifle your own creativity. Woodworkers can get pretty passionate about the right way to to build something or the best or worst tools.

I worked in a few pro shops before I started my own woodworking business. I learned a ton from my woodworker bosses,and I'm grateful for that. Often when I'd say wouldn't this be faster or stronger they'd say "this is the way we've always done it". I had a lot of ideas I wanted to try but only at my last job was I experienced enough for the boss to let me use them a little.
My experience is, woodworking is a very creative process. I say keep getting all the info you can , everywhere you can, but keep an open mind. You may come up with something totally unique on your own.

Oh ,and don't rule out Harbor Freight chisels or a Ridgid saw. I have several Harbor Freight tools that perform well. They both have liberal return policies. Many Harbor Freight tools are warrantied for life (save your receipts). Ridgid has lifetime service and parts if you register. I found one of my favorite saw blades at Home Depot. I asked the salesperson if I could try 3 different blades and return them if I wasn't happy. No problem she said.

[Stew Hagerty]

Oh the breadboard was about my harvest table.

I went to HF to just test out a japanese pull saw on some 2x4s. I've never really used handsaws so I have no unlearning, only learning. Didn't feel bad but I'm still going to buy a carcase saw to compare.

I was planning on just doweling my first projects to avoid overwhelming myself. That leaves only edge jointing 2x8 ( maybe wider) doug fir. I was going to attempt it with a no. 4 since I'm holding off on a table saw purchase.

So main question is can home depot 2x8 doug fir be jointed on a no. 4 or should I do purchase and learn a no. 7 or get the wood milled at a local shop.

edit: I did not realize a circ saw would get me close to a glue edge. I'll give this a shot thanks for the diagram.

I have a 60tooth avanti finish/ trim blade on it.

I'll give this a go on the fir. I'll just swipe off the rounded edges it comes with. plane off machine marks and glue that sucker up.

Now I have to go purchase the fir and let it acclimate! it's going to be a long few weeks.

Be sure to let us know how it turns out. Photos are always welcomed on here.

[Jason White]

If all you have is $500 to spend, get a table saw. If you peruse Craigslist, you can find a good contractor saw with a cast-iron top or, if you're lucky, a used cabinet saw. Get something with a Biesemeyer-style fence if at all possible. Also, don't let a little rust scare you. It comes off fairly easily with scotch-brite pads and WD-40 or mineral spirits.


Hello all,

I want to start getting into woodworking for relatively simple furniture projects around the house and to give people functional gifts (cutting boards, serving trays, etc.)

Here is what I own so far.

Drills
7-1/4" Ryobi Circular Saw
12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw - Harbor Freight
Black and Decker Rotary tool (maybe for some detail etching?I've only cut corners in wall tile with it)
Black and Decker Matrix Jigsaw (http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/BDCMTJS.aspx)
Dewalt Random Orbit 5" Sander
Rigid Reciprocating Saw
Various clamps, levels, squares
A hand plane that a very thoughtful SMC member is trading with me to help get me started into hand planes.

This is what my thoughts are for my next two purchases.

Rigid R4512 Table Saw (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206)

A router, something around $100. I'm mainly just looking to do roundovers, maybe do simple rabbets for bookshelves, nothing too extravagant until I feel I'm a little more skilled at using it. I was planning on just clamping straightedges to my work as guides for the router as this is just a hobby and production speed isn't critical.

Is there really anything in this price range given what I currently own that can compete with that table saw? I really like the Herc-u-lift system as my plan is to store this in a corner of my garage below some low hanging cabinets (below 5' clearance). I was initially looking at the DWE7480 but I think the extra stability and table surface the rigid provides is well worth the few extra $$. I won't be moving this thing up or down stairs or in and out of a car, just in and out of a corner as I use it. I'm not interested in hunting for craigslist ads at the moment, I don't know enough about old table saws to rehab one, and I'd like a warranty on what I

There are a lot of threads where track saws enter the equation and how the person interested in a table saw should consider a track saw system. From my research it seems to just get STARTED into track saws is basically about $600 for just the track saw and some track, and if you want to use the EZ system to use on your circular saw, it might run slightly cheaper, but if you want to get one of those repeaters to make quick repetitive cuts, or with festool the MFT table. the price adds up pretty quickly.

So basically my question is for $400-500 is table saw vs GCSS an apples to apples comparison? Or is the entry budget level a little higher for a GCSS to begin to enter the discussion.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

[george newbury]

Also if you can go the used route AND have a 240V circuit or two this picture shows what I bought for about $1K.

Now I still need a RPC and transformer, but it's sort of "instant woodworking shop", just add water (sweat).

Thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?188861-Where-to-buy-used-equipment&p=2157806&highlight=#post2157806 .

And that included 2 table saws. A 10 inch contractors Craftsman and a Powermatic 66.

[Chris Hachet]

Hello Anthony, if you're looking to spend around $500 for a tablesaw, find a good condition used cast iron saw for slightly more, or less.

Although a router may look like something you need, I've been in the hobby 40 years and don't have one.

Your next needs are going to be a jointer and planer so you can surface and dimension rough wood, and of course hand tools.

Planes and sandpaper make great round overs without a router............Regards, Rod.
I do a lot of repair work on furniture as part of my job at a university in the facilities department. I also build furniture for family and friends. I would say hand tools are by far the best investment you could make, as well as the time to learn how to properly use them. Hand planes will save you a ton of sanding once you learn to use them properly, tennons and mortises can be cut by hand, etc. As far as power tools go, I have $500 invested between a very good condition used Craftsman table saw that came with an Incra fence system and a couple of Forrest woodworker two blades, a nice heavy duty American made drill press, and a hollow chisel morticer. I dumped another $150 on a used Jet Band saw that came with a bunch of blades and a stack of Walnut and Cherry. Another $150 went for a used Delta scroll saw that came with lumber, books, and $100 plus worth of blades. Keep an eye out for deals on used stuff, it will find you. I have a used Stanley #4 hand plane of WW 2 vintage, I've sued it for 25 years. I paid $3 for it at a garage sale, cleaned it up and sharpened it. Keep your eyes and ears open, deals will find you!

[Chris Hachet]

Also, do not forget layout tools-learning to cut to a line by hand and with a machine is very important, so a good marking knife, several squares, dividers, etc....buy tools slowly, learn how to use each tool, and then buy another. Also if your just starting out, consider a Kreg Jig-you can build a lot of simple good looking stuff quickly, which will increase your confidence and make you want to build more difficult projects. Also helpful on those projects you really don't feel like spending a lot of time on but need to get done, like a bathroom vanity for a friend, etc.

[Chris Hachet]

For $500 you can find and older saw, or you can get something like this:

278902

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-10-in-contractor-saw-sears-21833/p-00921833000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

I've heard good reviews and it has a riving knife.

Another option, since you already have ways to rip & crosscut, would be to spend the money on several lower priced items.

What about a drill press? It drills holes, of course, but it can be used for joinery, such as: mortice & tenon work; loose tenons; and doweling. Another very nice use is for sanding. Simply chuck in a sanding drum and you have the next best thing to an oscillating spindle sander. You can pick up a decent one for around $350.

Another thought would be a dovetail saw ($69 @ Lee Valley) and a carcase saw ($79 @ Lee Valley). Perhaps basic set of chisels would be an idea too.

Just start working and buy as you go. You will figure out what you really NEED, then buy it.The Marples Chisels are cheap and hold an edge nicely. Chisels are really handy, they can tune up all kinds of joinery quickly once you get comfortable with them. I would suggest that at some point your going to want to learn how to sharpen-once you learn to sharpen, edge tools can save a boatload of time over power tools when fine tuning things or when you only need to cut one or two joints.

[Chris Hachet]

Hi Anthony,
I like your idea of giving it a go. You will learn a lot as you cut that fir. Yes, it's possible to get glue ready surfaces right from the saw without planing. I do it all the time.

Before carbide blades you had to plane or joint edges before edge gluing. When I got my first good carbide blade in 1970 I was amazed at the smoothness of the cut. I tested a glue-up right from the saw and it was fine. I didn't see it in a magazine or hear it from an expert. I just tried it and it worked!

A forum like this can save you a lot on the learning curve. However the down side is you could get so many conflicting opinions that you stifle your own creativity. Woodworkers can get pretty passionate about the right way to to build something or the best or worst tools.

I worked in a few pro shops before I started my own woodworking business. I learned a ton from my woodworker bosses,and I'm grateful for that. Often when I'd say wouldn't this be faster or stronger they'd say "this is the way we've always done it". I had a lot of ideas I wanted to try but only at my last job was I experienced enough for the boss to let me use them a little.
My experience is, woodworking is a very creative process. I say keep getting all the info you can , everywhere you can, but keep an open mind. You may come up with something totally unique on your own.

Oh ,and don't rule out Harbor Freight chisels or a Ridgid saw. I have several Harbor Freight tools that perform well. They both have liberal return policies. Many Harbor Freight tools are warrantied for life (save your receipts). Ridgid has lifetime service and parts if you register. I found one of my favorite saw blades at Home Depot. I asked the salesperson if I could try 3 different blades and return them if I wasn't happy. No problem she said.I would second the harbor freight chisels and Ridgid power tools-ridged tools hold up better than most cheaper power tools, and the harbor freight chisels are fairly soft and will sharpen fairly easily.

[Chris Hachet]

Also if you can go the used route AND have a 240V circuit or two this picture shows what I bought for about $1K.

Now I still need a RPC and transformer, but it's sort of "instant woodworking shop", just add water (sweat).

Thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?188861-Where-to-buy-used-equipment&p=2157806&highlight=#post2157806
And that included 2 table saws. A 10 inch contractors Craftsman and a Powermatic 66.Like I said, used is the way to go.

[Prashun Patel]

Personally, I'd get a router first. They can be used for edge forming and jointing (if things are not straight off your saw(s)). It's cheap to build a router table. The router is the key to producing (at first) professional-looking projects for a new woodworker.

A 110v contractor or hybrid tablesaw is a good investment too. However, I'd get one with the idea that you'll be at least considering reselling it in a couple years in the (likely?) event that your ts-envy grows.

[John Solie]

A good sturdy bench with a vise is perhaps the most useful tool in your shop, for it will help with just about everything. How are you set for your bench? If you opt for the table saw route before investing in a good bench, I'd try to get everything in the shop about the same height as the tablesaw. I have a main work bench that is a few inches higher than my table saw, and a couple of lighter benches. It would have been convenient if everything had been the same height as the smaller benches can serve as outfeed tables on my TS. Some other things to consider are lighting and dust control, especially if your shop is attached to your house. Your wife will thank you for the dust control. DAMHIKT.