Contactor for 100+ amp sub panel

[Chris Fairbanks]

My three year old is really interested in working with me in the shop (3 car attached garage). When I wired the shop out 11 years ago there was enough space in the main house sub panel so I just used that. Now that he is getting older and we have a 4 month old also I was thinking of rewiring the shop so I can have everything off a dedicated sub panel that I can easily shut off when I am not in there. I want to make sure the shop is safe if he gets out there or as he gets older and he has friends over they are safe. I like the idea of having a keyed switch that activates a contactor as the sub panel will not be easy to access to flip breakers off. The problem is 100amp + contactors are $$$ it looks like. There also seems to be a bunch of different types of them, most of which look like they are for lighting control. Anyone have any experience with these? If so any brands to look for or stay away from? Also are the lighting control ones good enough if it is sized right? Ebay has a bunch of used ones i might be able to get at a responsible price. Thanks

[Rich Riddle]

I wired the shop off the main house sub panel and was thinking of rewiring the shop to have everything off a dedicated sub panel that can easily shut off. I like the idea of having a keyed switch that activates a contactor but 100amp + contactors are $$$. There are different types of them. Anyone have any experience with these? If so any brands to look for or stay away from? Also are the lighting control ones good enough if it is sized right? Thanks

Understanding motivations, safety seems paramount. Consequently, the lighting control contactors seem inconsistent with that goal. Look for a motor control contactor and investigate NEMA requirements for exact needs. The contactor needs to be installed between the main panel and new sub-panel. Look for Allen Bradley, GE, Square D, or Siemens. Since you will be installing a new sub-panel, make it accessible.

[Nick deMolitor]

I've thought of doing something similar, only with a 100 amp disconnect. Have you thought about going that route? You could mount the disconnect say 7 feet off the ground or have it locked in the off position with a padlock. I'm an electrician by trade and know a 100 amp contactor will have quite the slam when it halls in. Not to mention the buzzing it will give off when energized. It might not be bad for some people but I know it would irk me.

[John Lanciani]

I think you'll be happier in the long run by just putting the sub-panel in the shop where it is easy to get to and put a key lock in the panel door. Clean, simple, and much less expensive.

[Zane Harris]

And if the key lock that they offer for panel doors is not substantial enough for you, a hasp and a good Master padlock would still be quite a bit less expensive than a high amp 240V contactor.

[Jason Roehl]

I'd say put in a sub-panel with a disconnect box inbetween the sub and the main. Disconnects are easy to lock. Use a 100A main panel from one of the big boxes for the sub panel, as it will come with a bunch of breakers and be very reasonable, cost-wise.

[Jim Neeley]

Chris,

Unless you want to pay big $$$ for "remote control", 100A non-fused lockable disconnect switches start at around $100, depending on whether it will be mounted inside or needs to be weatherproof.

Jim