Hollowing help needed

[chuck vernon]

I have a question as to where on the bowl a hollowing tool should be presented. On the midline or above. I am using a hollowing tool for the first time and am presenting on the midline and am getting catches. Should I set the rest above the midline?

[Brian Kent]

Above the midline. I have not used captured systems, so maybe those are straight midline. But handheld I have to keep it above midline.

[Dennis Ford]

On the center or slightly above works for me (there was a significant learning curve).

[Steve Schlumpf]

Slightly above the center-line. Also make sure you are hollowing in the right direction. You should be moving the tool from largest diameter towards the center... left to right.

[Richard Coers]

Using the same tool that is getting catches in the hollow forms? Same thing here, too big of cutter, too small of steel shank. How far are you hanging over the tool rest? You need to get a tool rest that goes inside the bowl if you are using small tools.

[chuck vernon]

Thanks for all the advice. I went back and read a previous post about making a hollowing tool and learned a lot. Where is a good place to purchase these small cutters? I have never seen one up close and have no idea how to sharpen one. Must be a u-tube video to watch.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Here is another tip, Chuck. You will learn a lot about hollowing if you use the same tools to hollow out a form with a big opening. Do a cup shape that is 5" at the widest but has a 3" bottom and a 3" opening. Keep the height to 5" also. Then you can see the tool working and begin relating the feel to what you see. You will be able to use a 5/8" bar and experiment with your cutting and sharpening technique. Sharpen the tools like a miniature round nose bowl scraper.
You should cut very little with the side of the tool and rounding the cutting shape will allow all the side cutting you need. The greater the sharpening angle, the more aggressive the tool will become. It doesn't take a steep angle. Try the same shape with the grain running spindle direction then cut one to run bowl direction.
Don't let the cutting edge take on too much of a bite. Cut with no more than half the available cutting edge. If you bury both sides of the tip you will catch.
There is a definite progression to the cuts. If no one has instructed you as to how to progress through the various hollowing areas, buy a DVD that will teach you. After you master the tool, gradually decrease the size of the openings in your hollow forms. Good luck and don't be discouraged by a few catches.
faust

[chuck vernon]

I am attempting to make a walnut bowl with parallel curved sides. It is 7 1/2" outside with a 5" opening. I have it mostly hollowed but need to hollow the top half under the rim. I have a rest that will get inside. I think it is correct that my cutter is too big. Will keep trying.

[Dale Gillaspy]

You can buy blank stock (HSS) from a tool supply place, or several companies on the internet sell them. Just about any place that sells hollowing tools sells bits as well. I picked up some from John Jordan at the last symposium and I really like them.

[Jack Mincey]

I've bought them here and they work great and the price is hard to beat. Jack http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=383-5312&PMPXNO=939775

[Peter Blair]

Hey Chuck.
All good advise. As said the small 3/16" cutters are easy to sharpen but I found making a jig like the one John Jordan sells really speeds up my sharpening time. The bits, once snapped in half are pretty small for me to hold and my home made jig gets the job done with ease.