Any experience on these router tables?

[Guy Belleman]

I have been looking at building a full size router table or purchasing one. The prices of the tables, fences, insert plates, and other features seem to make buying one costly. I could make one but still gathering all of the materials, tracks, parts, fence, insert, etc, and spending several days (at least for me) still seems to be a time consuming and not inexpensive project. I already have the Triton router to put in a table, have it installed temporarily in a board, and am really happy with how it adjusts and operates. So, that said, I was wondering if anyone has any knowledge or experience with these tables. The price seems reasonable and it appears that the materials used are good quality:

http://www.rt1000.com/index.html

[Stan Mitchell]

No experience with that specific unit. However the construction details look nearly identical to the Norm Abram designed router table setup (with a few refinements).

I suspect that the table is made from two layers of MDF and then covered with laminate and trimmed with hardwood.

That's a proven design and I would guess that a lot forum members have a router table setup that's very similar (myself include).

Get one if you must - but they're more fun if you just build one yourself.

There are plans available by the way.

[Rick Potter]

Got one. I like it very much. It is solid, and the top is well supported, which is good because I have a big PC router and a lift in it. If you don't care to make your own, it is a nice unit, and costs less than most factory tables. If you want to make one, it is fairly straightforward in its design, and you could copy it from just the picture.

There are a few changes I felt the table needed. I wanted to put casters on it, and did it under the carcass as the manufacturer recommends, but it was way too tipsy that way. The case is built with the sides overhanging the floor, which means the casters had to be inset for turning allowance. Note that the case has a toe kick built in. This places the front casters way too far from the front. I see no reason for a toe kick, since the table overhangs plenty anyway. I ended up mounting fixed casters on the back, under the overhanging case, but in front, I mounted a 1x4 across the toe kick and used smaller rotating, and lockable casters there. It works well, and is very stable now.

Second problem: On mine, the large drawer at the bottom has a non locking drawer guide. When I first put the casters on (before the above changes), I was rolling the unit out to use it, and the drawer, which was full of routers, slid out and the weight almost tipped the whole thing over. That was the day I made the above changes. A simple self locking drawer guide would solve that problem.

Third: No problem, just my preference: I decided I do not care for the DC collection from the side of the case. Two reasons. First, I don't like pulling the sawdust down around the router ( Bill Huber made a fix for that, you might check). Secondly, I move the RT around a lot, and the side connection was just in the way and awkward to use. I just finished taking off the plastic piece on the top of the fence and made a 4" connection there for the DC hose. I am trying to get the DC to draw through the cabinet and out the fence area (there is a large hole under the fence for air flow). I honestly don't know if this will work better or not, as I haven't tried it yet, but it is easily reversible.

As I said, I like it. The above changes just make it better (for me). Hope this helps.

Rick Potter

[Sal Kurban]

After pondering the same question, I built a full size router table last year. It cost me less than $40 including the table top lift using readily available material in the workshop. All I purchased was a plate and a bolt for the lift mechanism. If you would like, I will be very happy to snap couple pictures and post them here.
Sal.

[john davey]

I purchased that unit used off CL about 4 years ago. I used it with no issues until last year when I sold it for the same price i paid for it. So it was good to me. I would still have it but I needed the room so I got the Kreg bench top table to save space.... John.

[Jerry Herrington]

How much is shipping on this unit? Website does not specify unless you make the purchase.

[Michael Heffernan]

In the lower right side of the USA shopping cart page you'll see the freight costs. Anywhere from $115 (northeast) to $199 (west). It's broken down into 7 shipping zones. Freight is not too bad for such a bulky item.


How much is shipping on this unit? Website does not specify unless you make the purchase.

[Guy Belleman]

Jerry, if you click on the USA Shopping Cart tab and scroll to the bottom the shipping prices to all zones are listed. $125 to my area, so with $350 for the table + $125, the total would be $475, still a better deal than I see elsewhere.

I don't have any materials readily available in the workshop, so I figure a minimum would a sheet of 3/4" birch/maple plywood ($50 to $75), a sheet of 1/2" ply ($35) for the drawers and maybe the back, a recycled kitchen counter top (maybe $0 maybe more), an insert ($100), track/knobs,dust chute/etc ($40), trim/face frame/cross member material ($40), plus glue, time and gas. Or, about $265 to $300 to build, and I suspect I have under estimated in spots, like on a switch, finish, and drawer glides. What am I missing?

Rick, thank you for the insights. I agree that there isn't a need for the toe kick and figured that I might have to adjust the wheel configuration some. Putting the wheels out on the front would also allow using a couple of locking wheels that would be easier to get to when not under the cabinet. As for the dust collection, from the pictures it looks like the debris is pulled through the fence, but then pulled downwards through a hole below the plastic and out the hole below the table top and into the piping. Since that is all open, your solution of attaching the ducting behind the fence is good and works very well on my tiny bench top router table. I was thinking that just putting in tubing between the hole under the fence and side cabinet, that the dust would then be pulled directly out and not down around the router. I too was thinking that I might prefer the dust collection out the back rather than out the side. Maybe I will ask if I order one, if that could be relocated.

[Jerry Herrington]

I was about to buy materials to build Norm Abrams' router station when I saw this thread. Looking at Norm's plans, just the wood materials alone would be close to $200. Add the hardware, etc. and you are up to 70% of the cost of this unit. Shipping to Texas is $179. Heck, I'm torn between the pride of building the unit myself vs taking this thing out of a box and getting to use it immediately. It appears to be well made, although I agree that the dust collection should be ducted out the back.

[Roy Harding]

I have had one for over five years now (so some features may be different than the current offering). I like it - it works well. At the time I purchased it, I didn't have time to build one for myself, as I was setting up the shop and MANY things needed to happen at the same time.

If I were to build one for myself, I'd probably duplicate this one.

[joe barbosa]

Thank you for your interest in our Table
I'm confident that you will enjoy working withRT1000XL router table. You can order ourrouter table any time, as we build these 350 days a year. This special thoughwill end Jan 6 we usually put another sale in July but I can’t guarantee it.
For your concerns
I find the majority of our customers prefer the dustport on the sides that way they can place the unit up against a wall. If you likeI can offer a cabinet without the dust port and you can set it where ever it worksbest for you.
You can remove the Plexi glass cover and attach an adapterto draw the dust from the back of the fence. But there is a 2.5” hole in thetop, under the fence that you can attach an adapter (we sell them they are a DC-2.5)with a 2.5” opening, the 1” end can becut for shop vac hose up to 2 ¼”. The baffle board that separates the router compartmentfrom dust compartment works very well with a 4” DC.
The Toe kick has been removed on out tables for atleast 5 years as a customer advised me I didn’t need a toe kick. Since thetable top over hangs which makes the cabinet much more stable when the lowerdrawer is full. You cannot put swivel casters under the cabinet must be ridgedor an aftermarket mobile base that the cabinet fits in.
I don’t understand the question about the T grove.we have an aluminum T track on the fence and the mitre track. If you mean wherethe knobs clamp the fence down to the table top. I have done that and found ittake too long. But if you like I can include 2 tracks if you want to installthem yourself.
If you have any concerns do not hesitate to contactus
Thanks’ again Joe

[Rick Potter]

Hi Guy,

Looks like the new ones have dropped the toe kick, but I was fooled by the first pic which still shows it. If it would help, I could probably take a couple pics showing my setup with the wheels, and DC. I had to recut the opening on mine for my Woodpecker lift, as it was a bit larger than the opening. No big deal. About your DC idea, take a good look at the pics, one shows the backstop that is inside the cabinet. Chips would still have to drop to the floor then be picked up. Doing it my way will hopefully draw most chips out before going down, but still pick up the ones that drop. Again....I just made the modification, and haven't tried it yet.....a couple days off. I could be wrong, happens all the time.

Rick Potter

[Guy Belleman]

Rick, the message from Joe was his reply to me in an email. I did suggest that he update his pictures on the website as a couple still show the toe kick. All-in-all the router table looks like a great deal and there is a great deal right now on a bunch of included accessories through January 6th.

I do have a Woodpecker plate on my little bench top table now, and like it very much, but I am certainly willing to give the HDPE insert the table comes with a try. It looks nice and seems to fit the task. It is not really a big task to attach a router, nor drill a hole of the adjustment handle, as needed. As for the DC, a standard 2.5" router connection below the table and a hose to the side vent should be a simple fix to pulling out all chips before dropping down. That is what I now have and it works great.

I am now planning on buying one of these tables. As one of the responders mentioned on another woodworking website, Joe is very straightforward and able to negotiate some.

[Rick Potter]

I think you made a good choice, Guy. Like I said, I am very happy with mine, and it is well built. I just did a couple mods that make it better for my use.

Rick P

[Guy Belleman]

Update. I did purchase the New Year's Special RT1000 table when the owner, Joe, said he could delay delivery. I will post my views on the table after some use. After buying the table, I feel relief at having that over, but at this price, I feel like that gecko commercial on saving a bunch of money on car insurance.

[Roy Turbett]

No experience with that specific unit. However the construction details look nearly identical to the Norm Abram designed router table setup (with a few refinements).

I suspect that the table is made from two layers of MDF and then covered with laminate and trimmed with hardwood.

That's a proven design and I would guess that a lot forum members have a router table setup that's very similar (myself include).

Get one if you must - but they're more fun if you just build one yourself.

There are plans available by the way.

I've built Norm's table (revised design) and it works great. Plans are available at newyankee.com