Building very large router table, what is best material for top

[tom coleman]

I am reconfiguring my garage shop and intend to replace a 72x36 assembly table and 24x32 router table with an oversized router table. I am looking for suggestions as to what material to use for top and also for suggestions on router fence.

My preliminary thinking is to build a 32x60 router table top with an insert plate located near one end for my 3 1/2hp PC router and Jessum lift. I currently have a Rockler 32" metal router fence plate with split fences that is positioned via slots that are parallel to table edges. Should I make the top out of 2 layers of 3/4" MDF, or try and find 1" MDO or what else? I will laminate all sides of whatever material I end up using. I am considering using exisiting Rockler fence with positioning slots on the 32" width of table top but am open to suggestions re better fence.

Will maximize storage via sliding drawers in cabinet to be built which I plan on putting on 5 or 6 inch casters (this table will be heavy when loaded).......2 fixed, 2 swivel? Probably cannot find levelers for casters of this size so I will lift up the router end and rest it on heavy blocks so it cannot move when in use. I am dreaming of purchasing a Jet midi lathe which can be positioned on other end of table when desired.

Suggestions and tips appreciated. Happy New Year

[Rick Potter]

Hard to beat Formica.

Rick Potter

[Michael Mahan]

get the Incra LS super system for a router table , it's 10% off until Tuesday HDAY1 is the code ,

your building a killer set-up might as well go all the way ;)
MDF or HDF if you can find it THEN
+1 Formica MicroDot surface (less resistance sliding wood )
do both sides to prevent warping & do the edges in hard wood strips to seal out the moisture , that will protect from bumps
& get the Jessem clear cut guides as well http://www.jessem.com/CLEAR-CUT_STOCK_GUIDES.html

[Roy Turbett]

I was able to order 1 1/8" thick particle board from my countertop supplier for my workbench countertops. Add some formica and you'd have a great top. I've also seen it in 6' lengths at Menards.

[Rich Riddle]

get the Incra LS super system for a router table , it's 10% off until Tuesday HDAY1 is the code ,



The source for the coupon code is direct from Incra at http://www.incrementaltools.com/

However, one of the Friends of the Creek, Carbide Processors, always offers Sawmill Creek members a 10% discount, including the Incra setup you listed. The code is "creekers". http://www.carbideprocessors.com/

[keith micinski]

Something I have been thinking about doing for a while is using a granite piece from someone's old island off of craigslist. I see them all of the time on craigslist for 50-100 bucks. I was originally going to pay someone that fabricates granite 75 bucks to do the cut out but I recently did my first granite sink cutout for a house I flipped and it really wasn't that hard at all.

[Michael Mahan]

The source for the coupon code is direct from Incra at http://www.incrementaltools.com/

However, one of the Friends of the Creek, Carbide Processors, always offers Sawmill Creek members a 10% discount, including the Incra setup you listed. The code is "creekers". http://www.carbideprocessors.com/
that's is good to know & i will check with them 1st on any future tools & bits

[Kelby Van Patten]

I'm skeptical that you can keep a top that large from sagging.

I have a router table that I made with two layers of 3/4" MDF, for a total of 1-1/2", reinforced with carbon fiber rods, then covered with formica. It has been a very good tabletop. However, I don't have a particularly large table top, and the weight of a 3-1/2 HP router plus a substantial router lift has caused a slight amount of sag over the years. It's still within tolerances that I can live with; however, if the table top were larger, the sag would be exaggerated and probably problematic.

Keith's thought about granite is an interesting option, but that's quite a bit of work and really heavy. But unless you can go to something extremely rigid like granite, make sure to reinforce the large table top with some type of supports at regular intervals under the top.

[keith micinski]

It's definitely a little bit more work but to be honest with you if you get a second hand piece of granite which is not hard to do at all in my area it's actually not that much more money and as near as I can tell the number one enemy of all router tops is sag and it seems like the granite would solve that problem for the lifetime of the top. The other nice thing is it sounds like you might be using this as a part time assembly area and I love the fact the glues and stains and paints pop right off the granite and it gives you a nice big relatively flat area for assembly.

[Rick Potter]

Hey, Keith,

Aren't you afraid you will go all hypnotic, and keel over after looking up close at a granite patterned surface for a long time?? :rolleyes:

Rick Potter

[Richard Coers]

It's definitely a little bit more work but to be honest with you if you get a second hand piece of granite which is not hard to do at all in my area it's actually not that much more money and as near as I can tell the number one enemy of all router tops is sag and it seems like the granite would solve that problem for the lifetime of the top. The other nice thing is it sounds like you might be using this as a part time assembly area and I love the fact the glues and stains and paints pop right off the granite and it gives you a nice big relatively flat area for assembly.

It's not easy to get a snug fit on a router plate in wood, can't imagine doing it in STONE!

[Ole Anderson]

Straight cuts in granite is not too difficult with an appropriate diamond blade on a circ saw keeping it wet, but doing the stepped plate cutout would be tough without having a shop do it on their stone working CNC machine. Then you have the miter slots to cut as well. Personally for my router table, I laminated two thicknesses of 13 ply 3/4" birch and then hit it top, bottom and edges with Formica. I have used the 1 1/8" particle board laminated both sides and it works pretty well. It is flat and you don't have to worry about how to clamp and glue two large surfaces of ply together.

[keith micinski]

I wouldn't put a mitre slot in the table. I have found using sleds that ride along the fence provide a lot of extra benefits and are easier to use. Again I think a shop could route the slot out for less then a 100 dollars or so and put a mitre slot in it if you really wanted to. I am pretty sure it wouldn't be hard to route the recessed lip out with a router and a diamond router bit but I would guess the router bit would make it cost prohibitive to do. This may be a project I tackle this winter if I do I will let you guys know how it turns out.

[Keith Hankins]

I built mine from norms plans with some mod's I made the top bigger to handle an Incra fence ( I highly recommend). I added wheels as well. For my top I glued and screwed two pieces of 3/4 MDF and wrapped with white oak and put a piece of formica on the top. I've had it with a PC7518 and woodpecker lift for 10 years now, and no sag or warp.

278339

[guy knight]

i used 1 1/2 mdf with laminate works great

[Charles Lent]

I was thinking about using a piece of a commercial door. They can be purchased in nearly perfect condition from Habitat here for $20-30 and they are 1 3/4 thick and very flat.

Charley

[Jim Neeley]

I made mine by gluing up two pieces of 3/4" MDF and then applying Formica on both sides (the second side for moisture absorption evenness) and trimmed it in maple. I have the incra Supersystem and have it set up with one router in one end (~30%) with small drawers on each side, a second router in the middle 30%, with 2/3 of the width for the router and 1/3 for a cabinet, and the last ~40% for a full bank of drawers. I like routing high so it's about 42" overall and mounted on casters for ease of moving. I placed a 6" DC port on the side and routed it to serve both routers.

Yes I must lift out the middle router if a bits installed to use the front one but the convenience of having multiple router setups has paid off for me big time.

This approach also leaves two vertical supports in addition to the ends, so there's a support about every 18". Five years now and no sagging.

Jim in Alaska.