Router Table: Buy or Build?

[David Cramer]

Making a router table versus buying one, that is the question.

I've heard very good things about the Kreg Stationary Router Table that I believe has been around for about 7 years. For those of you who've made one, what may I ask was the final cost versus, if you know, against the $500 for the Kreg? Trying to figure out the cost and time versus just buying it.

I know that the tops need to be dead flat and I've heard that the Kreg has steel supports under it on both side of the plate. Do most of you have that kind of success with getting it flat and keeping it flat if you built your own?

Thanks:)!

[Rick Potter]

David,

I have no idea if you have previously had a router table, but if not, I suggest you build a basic one, use it a while, then decide what features you really need. You can build a basic one with home made fence, etc. for less than $50 and an afternoon. Build a benchtop unit, or a full size. You can put it across sawhorses and play with it for a couple months, then you can make an informed decision.

Rick Potter

[David Cramer]

Hi Rick

Sorry as I definitely wasn't clear. Yes, I've made quick ready ones for raised panel bits and such, but never anything permanent with a really good fence and cabinet below. I used MDF for the table and fence to allow me to make some quick profiles, but again, not anything permanent...more like a jig versus a solid fixture that I would keep for multi uses.

Thanks,

David

[Derek Stockley]

In my opinion, the Kreg table is very over-priced and you would be FAR better served by buying a few parts and building your own setup.

I bought an excalibur cast iron top and a jessem rout-r-lift II and hung it on the wing of my table saw with a hitachi 2.25 hp router, and that setup is an absolute joy to use for a total cost of around $450, including the router and a shop-built split fence that piggybacks on my table saw fence made from scraps. A freestanding cabinet with dust collection would cost maybe another $50-$100 for materials, and you can build in drawers to keep all your bits and pieces close at hand, which is another huge plus.

So for around the same price plus lets say a few of days labor, you end up with a vastly superior setup.

[Keith Outten]

"C" All of the above.

You can make a case for buying or building your own router table, it really depends on your needs and whether you have the necessary tools to make what you want or the funds to purchase. I'm a big fan of making your own router tables but I can see that others would feel differently. If you are short of shop time and you prefer to buy your table so you can get on with your project list it makes sense to purchase. You can also purchase a router table that would be almost impossible to make in your shop unless you owned some very expensive metal working machines.

On the other hand it can be a near impossible task to purchase a router table that is anywhere near the one you can build. Commercial tables are available with lots of options but none have exactly what you want so there are compromises to be made. I am a big fan of using Dupont Corian for my router top, nothing else suits me anymore and I have tried several types of routing surfaces. A polished Corian top with a coat of paste wax is by far the smoothest surface I have ever used, this is the most important feature for me. I also prefer a Pin Router Arm accessory which is not a common option so to get the table I want with the most important options I prefer building my own or a combination of building/purchasing is my best bet.

I'm working on a new router table now but it will probably be a few weeks before I have pictures to share.
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[David Weaver]

Years ago, I built the table that pat warner advocates in one of his books, except I did get an aluminum rockler router plate and sink it into the top. I also got a 15 amp power switch for the front.

The plate, MDF and 2x4s that I used to make it, and bolts, were about $70 (rockler is close to me, so I can usually get stuff there on sale really cheap). I used about 10 bf of scrap oak for a fence (that doubles as part of a moxon vise when it's not on the router table).

I wouldn't trade it for a "made" router table. In the first couple of years, the table got a little bit out of flat, but since it's MDF, it can be hand planed back to flat. It's remained so since then. If I would ever obliterate the surface for some reason, I'd be back in business with $8 of MDF and an hour to refit a new piece to the table. I intended to build a "good" router table at some point, but there is no need now.

I did drop the coin for a 7518 in it, though, but even that back in 2006 or so was $235 on sale.

I generally use the router table only to cut grooves close to the edge of boards in ply and to raise door panels.

[glenn bradley]

Your router table choices/selection will effect you in an ongoing manner. By this I mean that a lift in the future, better plate, weight of motor, type of fence, desired fence attachments and so forth are all driven by your initial choices. Or, you have a bunch of jigs and accessories that fit one setup that get trashed if you make a change of direction. All that said, you can't predict the future and will find yourself paralyzed if you try to foresee every possibility. We all have tools that we just had to have that now clog our cabinets or drawers since we just don't do that sort of work but, I digress (sorry, I guess the coffee just kicked in) :o.

I went hybrid and bought the top and fence. I had to modify the motor opening for the lift I prefer but, I knew this going in and made sure to get a top that had a hole that was too small versus too big. I built my own cabinet and included the things I had learned that were important to me like:
- Extremely stiff, dense and solid support structure under the table.
- A switch position that I could hit with my hip.
- Openings for separate router bit storage boxes; the bits I keep on hand change too much and are too numerous to have fixed storage built into slide outs but, that's me.
- A deep drawer for those odds and ends that just don't store well; odd shaped feather boards, boxed sets of matched bits that I want to keep together, etc.
- An overhang of the table on the front and sides for clamping (my first top/cabinet was built flush to fit between tablesaw fence rails and I was frequently frustrated by situations that a simple clamp and block of wood could solve.

I agree with those that say that finding a commercial table that has all the things you want without getting/paying for things that you don't is pretty slim. There are some great tables out there and they are priced pretty high. I would sink $300 into a lift much faster than I would sink money into a commercial stand. Buying a commercial top and fence were a time saver to me. JMHO.

[Bill Huber]

Like has been stated it is up to you in the way you want to use the table and how much time you want to spend on making one.

When I decided I wanted a router table I started with a little Bosch bench top and found really fast that I wanted more. I spent many hours researching different tables and looking into making my own.

I wanted a flat table and I could make one out of MDF or something of that type but I really didn't like the MDF, it just loves to suck up moisture and my shop has the door open most of the time so I though that was out.

I finally settled on a Jessem table and fence, the table is Phenolic which I really like. It makes no difference what table you buy or build if it is not supported right it will sag over time.

I made a base for it out of 3/4" plywood and it was just for the bench, I used it that way for a while and then after some time I made a base for it, planned 2x4s and some dowels, nothing really fancy just something to hold it.

I then added a face frame and drawers, this worked fine for me and then after a while I made a large drawer under it to hold all my bits, so I could see then all and decide on which one I wanted to use.

This table has worked out very well for me and I don't have a lot of money in it, I do have a flat table and a smooth table. I guess the thing is you don't have to do it all at one time, just do a little at a time and this way you will find just how you want it be and not have to put a lot of money in it

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[Russ Ambrose]

my answer is "both." i'd buy a really good top/fence and build the cabinet. the ready-made router tables are (IMO) incredibly over-priced. some of the tops/fences are as well, but there is stuff out there that is (IMO) a decent value.

[Ole Anderson]

My vote is to make your own. A router table with appropriate dust collection, such as Norms, or others, are a real fun project that you get to use all of the time. Most premade router tables, are just that, a set of legs with a table on top and no thought for dust collection or storage. Personally I get as much satisfaction making a nice shop project as doing a project for someone else or for a piece of furniture. Mine was built from a magazine version and I went with the Freud router fence. If interested, I will look up the mag and the date.

[Prashun Patel]

Most people here will recommend you build vs buy.

Personally, i have a bought incra table and fence and i wouldnt trade it for the world.

The priciest parts are the lift and a microadjustable fence. If you decide you want these two. Thigns, the price of the Actual table and plate isnt so significant.

[John McClanahan]

I picked up a complete Bosch router table with stand and 2 table inserts for $100 on craigslist. I guess its not something to be proud of, but I don't see the $200-$300 tables doing any better. What I need is a good router lift to go with it. If I sold it, I would spend more on the pieces to build one that would do no better.

John

[Larry Edgerton]

I vote you skip the router table all together and buy one of the small Grizley or old Delta 1/2" shapers. Tons of cutters available cheap, and much sturdier. They cost about the same money as a router table with a couple of toys.

My first shaper was a 1/2" Delta, and it did a lot of work for me for a number of years. Bought it used, sold it for what I paid for it.

Larry

[Tom Clark FL]

Every time I see the ad for the Kreg I laugh out loud. Big bucks for a empty metal stand of dust collecting empty space.

I try to make use of all the space in my shop, turning wasted space into storage. If you are a woodworker then build you own. You will get far more satisfaction out of something you built yourself than a purchased item. My router table is over 20 years old and I smile every time I see it.

[Keith Outten]

Tom,

Your router table is very nice. I can see why you are so pleased.
Thanks for the pics.
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[johnny means]

If I was starting fresh, I'd blow my budget on a cast iron top and a nice lift. There the only RT features that really are substantially better than anything I could build with material from my dumpster.

[Ralph Butts]

That is the route I took with a Benchdog CI top and lift on a NYWS Norm cabinet. Flat with no deflection.

[David Cramer]

Thanks for all of the great responses as each one is truly appreciated.

I"m still on the fence but you've all given me lots to think about. Building the cabinet below a Kreg open stand is not a problem for me as I have lots of laminate and pb to work with that is quite durable...but it's still $499 plus tax, although I hear it's dead flat.

Thanks again!!!

David

[Ken Fitzgerald]

David,

I built "Norm's" 2nd version of his router work station, installed a Woodpecker PRLV-2 and a 3 1/4 HP PC router motor. I have used it a couple time and it's works well!

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[Bob Cooper]

Are Norms plans online or do i need to purchase them in order to get a good glimpse at the plans?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

They are sold at NewYankee.com.

I made some changes to the plans. I used locking rollers on mine so it's mobile. I also used T-track instead of routing a t-slot in both the table top and the fence pieces.

[Ole Anderson]

If I were doing it again, I would look seriously at the Grizzly cast iron top with the slider. Downside is that it looks like it doesn't accept a router lift, but that seems the routine for CI tops. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Table/G0528 I would, however, mount it on a custom cabinet with bit storage and under-table dust collection.

[Ralph Butts]

"Norm's" plans are for sale on his website. However there are many very similar plans available online if you search.

[Lee Reep]

I bought a Rockler table and fence about 10 years ago. I decided to use a ready-made kitchen base cabinet, and beefed it up on the bottom and added casters. This was going to get me by until I built the "ultimate router cabinet", change from plate to lift, etc. Maybe next year ... :)

However, you can do so much even with a basic setup. It just depends on how much effort you want to spend on doing your own, versus just spending the money and buying one of the really nice commercially available products. And for many of us, it falls somewhere in between.

[Roy Turbett]

Are Norms plans online or do i need to purchase them in order to get a good glimpse at the plans?

Norm sells his plans at newyankee.com. You can also buy the video. The plans also include a materials and cutting list.

[Jay Yoder]

Ken,
Great looking RT! Quick question, how clean does the area around the router motor stay? In other words, how well does the 2.5" connection work? I have been toying with the Norm RT design a bit and was thinking of putting a 4" connection in there, and maybe even reduce the open volume of the area around the router motor. Just curious how yours performs.

[Sam Whit]

Are Norms plans online or do i need to purchase them in order to get a good glimpse at the plans?
I am wondering the same thing.

[Todd Davidson]

Here's a link for free plans to a Norm style table: http://www.crestonwood.com/plans.php

[Dennis Nagle]

You may want to look for an old "shaper". They are router tables of old and usually case iron that won't move any more.

[Prashun Patel]

I gotta go out on a limb here:

These router tables that people build are beautiful! Beautiful pieces of furniture. Those plans look fun and rewarding to build. But 90% of the time is spent building the cabinet and handling bit storage, etc.

IMHO, the cabinet, and even the top, are incidental to the router table. The most important thing for a router table is its ability to adjust the bit height and depth easily and repeatably. That means I'd think about the fence and lifting mechanism first.

It's not critical to have a lift, but you do want the ability to change bits easily and at least adjust the height easily (preferably above the table).

A fence that allows micro adjustment (the Incra LS Positioner) has really raised the quality of my routing - and not just for joinery (in fact I don't use it for that). It allows you to dial in depth so precisely, it makes jointing and getting perfect roundovers, fillets, and quirks a snap. This is especially important if you ever need to rout a profile that requires multiple bit changes. A good fence will allow you to get back to the same point very easily.

Things like dust collection, and soft-close drawers and cup holders are nice-to-haves, but not the way I would think about a router table. Plan your fence and lift solution first and build/buy around that.

[Rick Potter]

Whoa!!

Cup holders? What an idea. I knew I was missing something. Put a new blade in the hacksaw, Mabel. We got some custom work to do. :D

Potable Potter

[Rod Sheridan]

I vote you skip the router table all together and buy one of the small Grizley or old Delta 1/2" shapers. Tons of cutters available cheap, and much sturdier. They cost about the same money as a router table with a couple of toys.

My first shaper was a 1/2" Delta, and it did a lot of work for me for a number of years. Bought it used, sold it for what I paid for it.

Larry

I also vote for leaving the router to what it does best ( freehand work) and buying a shaper.

Never heard anyone complaining their shaper table sagged...............I use my shaper frequently, and if you're working solid wood, a 40mm Euro block head and HSS knives are a cost effective solution...........Rod.