Material for False Fronts on Painted Drawers - MDF vs Plywood

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm finishing up a large outfeed table project for my workshop. There are a number of large drawers that need false fronts. The drawers will be painted black, so at least no wood finishing issues.

The cabinet is made out of 3/4" plywood.

Now to the issue. When I built the front table saw cabinet, I made the false fronts out of 3/4" MDF, chamfered the corners, and painted them black. Right now, I've got a large amount of plywood left over that I'd love to use for that task, instead of purchasing MDF.

Will I have large amounts of chipout if I rout the chamfers on the 3/4" BORG plywood - a non-issue with the MDF? Any helpful hints to avoid that?

[Alan Bienlein]

How did you chamfer the mdf fronts? I would just try a piece and see what happens.

[Alan Lightstone]

Bearing router bit. How I usually do it. Haven't tried it on ply, I'm just thinking it won't end well.

[glenn bradley]

I have chamfered BB ply without issue. I cannot say the same for thicker layered / veneered products (despite their cost). Since they will be painted, a filler for voids is an option. As Alan says; give it a try on a test piece and see how things go. A razor knife scribe on the front veneer where you will be crossing the grain will help as well.

[Jamie Buxton]

This is turning a simple project into a more elaborate one, but you might consider edgebanding the plywood with solid lumber, thick enough that you can cut the chamfer into it. Beyond making the chamfer nice, this also covers the edges of the plywood so the layers don't telegraph through the paint. If you use hardwood for the banding, it will be more ding-resistance than the corners of either plywood or MDF.

An additional benefit of using the plywood you already own is that you can apply it to the drawer boxes with wood screws whose heads are inside the box -- without fear that the screw threads are going to strip out the hole in the MDF.

[Von Bickley]

This is turning a simple project into a more elaborate one, but you might consider edgebanding the plywood with solid lumber, thick enough that you can cut the chamfer into it. Beyond making the chamfer nice, this also covers the edges of the plywood so the layers don't telegraph through the paint. If you use hardwood for the banding, it will be more ding-resistance than the corners of either plywood or MDF.

An additional benefit of using the plywood you already own is that you can apply it to the drawer boxes with wood screws whose heads are inside the box -- without fear that the screw threads are going to strip out the hole in the MDF.

I agree with Jamie......

[Alan Lightstone]

I tried it on a test piece. Certainly not a look I would approve on fine furniture, but for workshop furniture, only I will know. Of course, that also means I will know. Oh well.

I switched to a roundover bit instead of a chamfer bit. Less noticeable, so I'm likely going to stick with that.

And yes, Jamie. The plywood benefit in holding the screw is undeniable, though after 3 years, the MDF hasn't had any issues on the table saw / router table drawers.

[Mike Heidrick]

A 1/8" roundover on plywood works fine to ease the edge.

[Peter Quinn]

It might work better to do the chamfer on the TS with a plywood blade, at least on the cross grain. Routers and cross grain edges on cabinet ply are not good friends.

[Rick Potter]

20 yrs ago, I made some shop cabinets out of part board. It is harder than MDF, and the drawer edges hold up better. You have that granulated PB look, but for shop furniture I really don't mind. It looks good still, after 20 years. Painted it white.

Rick Potter

[Rich Engelhardt]

50/60 years ago nearly every single kitchen and bath in this country had cabinet doors made of birch plywood w/the edges eased over with a round over bit, then finished with orange shellac.
I've refinished dozens of them. (kitchens - not just doors)

[Alan Lightstone]

50/60 years ago nearly every single kitchen and bath in this country had cabinet doors made of birch plywood w/the edges eased over with a round over bit, then finished with orange shellac.
I've refinished dozens of them. (kitchens - not just doors)
Interesting, Rich. Nice to know.

[Jim Matthews]

If you roundover MDF - will that resist dings and fractures over the life of the drawer?

I've never chipped out exposed BB.
Very little MDF survives long exposed to my rough handling.

If you rabbet the exposed edge of the ply down to the front veneer,
you can lay in a thin fillet of the same plywood (show face up) to cover the plies.

I've started doing this to make hollow legs, and it's durable.
With a chamfer, it's really convincing.

278095

I don't have an example of this - replace the doweled section with your show face fillet.
Cut your rabbet at the desired angle and miter to match.