stanley 113 restoration project

[Wayne Stolte]

Hi everyone.


I'm new to this forum. I recently picked up a 113 on ebay, after successfully restoring several bench planes I decided I needed to try something more difficult. My plane is not perfect, it has a couple of missing parts, the most important of which are the handle and chip breaker. I did find from the article in FWW, published in 2012, that Hock tools has a replacement blade/chipbreaker set for this plane so I'm not so worried about that. I also know that my plane is a type 2. A question I have is does anybody know if the handle is the same for all of these planes? The frog on mine has only a single hole. I've read that the handles have two attaching screws, how can the handle be attached with two screws if my frog only has a single hole? I'm also thinking about making my own replacement handle for the plane, but I have yet to find accurate photographs of a handle.


Using the fine thread "Forever fetting, now its the #113" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148391-Forever-Fettling-Now-its-the-113, I carefully took my plane apart and cleaned it in "evapo rust". Todays challenge is to remove the dovetail key/sole from the rest of the body. Once I've done that I'd like to remove the gears to be replated. Has anyone removed the gears on their 113, or even know what's inside the body?


Thank you to everyone for making this nice forum.

[Jim Koepke]

Wayne,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't include your location. If you are in my part of the world I would be happy to help you with your #113.

If you are going to order one from Hock you should make sure by phone or email that it is the correct item.

On the handle, if it is type 2 I am not sure how that mounts. I will have to go out and look at mine and see. My early type #113 has a broken off handle and It seemed like it wasn't an easy fix. Most of my experience is with a later #113 with the "Bailey" style frog and blade adjustment.

I will also look to see about removing the gears. I seem to recall they are press fit and the ends are peened with gears on one side and arms on the other.

jtk

[Wayne Stolte]

Thank you Jim, I'm located a bit south of you in the SF bay area.
As you suggest I'll probably take the 3 hour drive to Hock when I get the chipbreaker/blade, I want to be sure it's the right part. I know if it is not he's usually willing to make a custom part. I need a new blade for my #94 anyway.

[Jim Koepke]

You are welcome Wayne.

Looking at my older #113 (type 1?) the handle appears to be a part of the frog casting. Mine is missing. It has been used without the handle.

I just came in to grab the camera. I will post some images later.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Okay as promised here are a couple of images:

This is the top of the frog where a handle once lived. It looks like there is an opening for a screw, but it doesn't look finished like a screw hole would be.

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This is the frog, chip breaker and blade.

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I am not sure if the screw is correct, but it is flat on one side from rubbing against the cutout in the adjustment plate.

Hope this is of help.

jtk

[Wayne Stolte]

Thank you Jim for the pictures.

Yes that looks like mine only, like you said the top of the Frog is broken off.

After soaking the body in evapo-rust for most of a day, I got the sole off of the body. I also carefully used a auger bit file to allow the removal of the two long arms from the gears, slightly filed the square ends, and then easily pushed the smaller gear out of the body. The larger one has a bit too much old dried oil in it to remove easily so I'm letting it sit with penetrating oil for the night, it does move/rotate so nothing is seriously wrong. After I get it out I can remove the rest of the rust, and begin to strip off the little remaining paint, before repainting the body and plating the knobs, gears, and arms. Eventually I'll find a handle for it.

I have plenty of pictures but I'm not able to post them yet. I'll work on a way to make it happen.

Wayne

[Rob Paul]

Wayne,
A handle sold recently
see pictures http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Handle-Stanley-Bailey-No-113-Type-2-Compass-or-Circular-Plane-Single-Screw-/171155763833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d9adb279&nma=true&si=nKiESDi5KN9b4jYI9tZHwOUh3j4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557#ht_2786wt_642
My type 1 is similar; a one screw connection
mine is 2-1/2" long, 1-3/4"wide x 1-3/8"deep at outboard end
With all those curves it would be an interesting build project !

[Jim Koepke]

Rob,

Thanks for posting that.

This thread including a handle picture will be linked in the other #113 post.

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jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Thank you Jim for the pictures.

Yes that looks like mine only, like you said the top of the Frog is broken off.

After soaking the body in evapo-rust for most of a day, I got the sole off of the body. I also carefully used a auger bit file to allow the removal of the two long arms from the gears, slightly filed the square ends, and then easily pushed the smaller gear out of the body. The larger one has a bit too much old dried oil in it to remove easily so I'm letting it sit with penetrating oil for the night, it does move/rotate so nothing is seriously wrong. After I get it out I can remove the rest of the rust, and begin to strip off the little remaining paint, before repainting the body and plating the knobs, gears, and arms. Eventually I'll find a handle for it.

I have plenty of pictures but I'm not able to post them yet. I'll work on a way to make it happen.

Wayne

This sounds great. I look forward to the pictures. There is a post on uploading pictures if you are having difficulty:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?167711-posting-photos-as-of-June-2011

If an image is too large to post there are many programs like Graphic Converter and others to help with that. You may want to work with copies instead of taking a chance with an original if you want to keep it.

It sounds like you are going the full route. I have only bothered to paint a few of my planes. Never went so far as to try plating plane parts. I have done plating, but not for a few decades.

They do look nice when all shined up.

Mostly I just try to get them to be good users.

jtk

[Wayne Stolte]

Here is a photo of removing the sole. It was difficult to remove, even after soaking in evapo-rust for a day, and using penetrating oil.
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After removing the sole you can see the material and rust that had built up between the sole and the body.
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I then carefully filed the square ends on the ends of the gears that attach to the arms. Just enough to allow the arms to come off. The smaller gear pushed out easily after using a wooden board and a light tap with a hammer to get it started.

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The axle of the larger gear is currently soaking in penetrating oil. Unlike the smaller gear it did not freely rotate.