Dovetail vs Crosscut saw?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys. I continue to fall faster and faster down the slippery slope - now Im getting interested in small handsaws. ; )

Ive had an LV crosscut for some time now, but only recently put it to use - I used it and a chisel to handcut two small lap joints for the first time. It was a good hybrid WW task - one of those that was faster than setting up a machine. But I found doing it by hand to be oddly "satisfying" - no idea why, it just WAS.

So heres my actual question. Whats the advantage of using a LV dovetail saw to cut small joints versus using an LV crosscut saw? The crosscut is 16 tpi, which falls right between whats available for their dovetails. The teeth look to be shaped/set very similarly. The only obvious difference is that the crosscut appears to have a greater depth of cut. (Not sure thats the right technical term - Im trying to describe the distance between the tip of the teeth and the spine/back of the saw.)

The only theory I have is that maybe the dovetail is more controllable because of the shallower "depth of cut". Is that it? If so, is the difference so noticeable that I should buy one?

Can you please teach the newbie (yet another) hand tool fundamental?

Thanks!
Fred

[paul cottingham]

Is it the small crosscut saw? If so, the basic difference is that the dovetail saw is a rip saw. Having both is sort of important as a Neanderthal.
Or perhaps I am misunderstanding the question.

[James Tibbetts]

" But I found doing it by hand to be oddly "satisfying" - no idea why, it just WAS."

Yep. You're hooked.

[Sean Hughto]

A dovetail saw is filed RIP. This means it is optimized to cut with the grain. A cross cut saw is optimized to cut across the grain. They will both do passable versions of each orher's jobs, but not optimal.

[James Tibbetts]

As to the difference in depth of cut it's about application. You may crosscut any thing from a 1/4" tenon shoulder to a 10/4 bed rail. You need the depth. I personaly have never seen a dovetail more than about an 1-1/2" deep. You just don't generally need that much blade on a dovetail saw. The smaller lighter saw should, as you suggested, also be easier to control.

[Tony Wilkins]

Technically you can cut any joint with either saw. With 16 ppi the number of teeth isn't too far off from what you'd want. The difference, as was mentioned, is the a dovetail saw is a rip filed saw as both haves of the joint are sawn down the grain. A higher point count and narrower saw plate of most dovetail saws do give more control (as you mentioned) but also work well in thinner stock found in drawer sides and backs.

Take this with a grain of salt as this is 'book learning' from someone still early on the slope ;) FWIW I use a 12" hybrid filed Bad Axe back saw. My next addition is a 16" hybrid filed Bad Axe Tenon saw (it's under the tree) and not a dovetail saw. I hope to someday add a Bonz dovetail saw but the two saws I have now will go a very long way to covering all my needs.

[Frederick Skelly]

Is it the small crosscut saw?

Yes it is the small crosscut. Looks like I missed the other obvious difference. Thanks Paul.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys. Thats what I was missing!
Edit: Darn. It says "rip cut" right there in the catalog. I mustve read right over it. Sorry for bothering you, guys.
Fred

[paul cottingham]

Asking questions is how we all learn. You don't want to know some of the things I've asked here.

[Sean Hughto]

No worries, brah. There was a time such facts were news to all of us too. Have fun!

[Chris Fournier]

There are a lot of great books about this subject matter, the library has them for free. Do your due diligence and read them. Web info is a free for all, neither juried nor edited. This advice is web based, beware.