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steve joly
12-20-2013, 6:55 PM
For the past year and a half I have been prepping my land to build my dream home on it. During that process I have cut down around 175 trees, almost exclusively red oak. I saved every log that seemed decent. Then I scored an entire black walnut tree on craigslist. That will be used for inlays and cabinets.

In 5 very long days Dennis from terrific timbers in CT came out with his woodmizer sawmill. We made almost exclusively 1.125-1.25 boards with some beams and 8/4 mixed in. After air drying the first batch of wood for almost a year it was ready for the next step...



I trailered ~1600 square feet of boards from the land to our house. (Yes square feet not board feet) I then cut the boards to 6.5 feet and restacked and snickered them inside my 12 foot cargo trailer in my driveway where it would get lots of sun. We placed a heater, and dehumidifier in the v nose of the trailer and had 5 household fans running in the trailer to ensure good air circulation. Over the next 25 days I removed around 80 gallons more of water and brought the wood from 12 percent moisture content to 4 percent moisture. I then gave the wood another week in the trailer to ensure it was evenly dried.

Once the wood was dry and ready the fun started. I have a one car garage that has enough tools in it to fill a small cabinet shop and a small automotive garage. After storing tools that I didn't need anywhere and everywhere I broke out the band saw and ripped the boards to width. In order to get the best yield from the wood I'm making 3 widths oak and 2 black walnut. Finished flooring was to be 1.75 and 2.25 black walnut and 2.25 3.25 and 4 inch oak. I ripped the boards to .75 over each of those. The band saw worked great for this as it was not affected by the warping, cupping and varied thickness of the boards. I unloaded the entire load of boards into the garage. Fitting 1600 square feet of wood into a one car garage was pretty tight.

After ripping the boards I put the power feeder onto my jointer and face jointed them, this was my first indication of how much sawdust / chips is was going to make during this process.

Next was planing I had to take the boards to under .82 for my flooring shaper cutters. The first pass was very difficult as there was a pretty significant difference in the thickness of the boards. I was also using an old 3 hp planer that was not a great quality machine, but I had gotten it cheep and it was great for every project I had up to this point. Well during the second pass through the planer I'm not really sure how but the chip breaker went into the cutterhead and the entire planer exploded. It was violent enough that it cracked the cast iron chassis of the planer and left a piece of chipbreaker imbedded in the Sheetrock on the wall. Luckily I was not hurt but obviously the planer was toast.

After weighing my options and researching I found a grizzly g0454 planer on Long Island. 2 ferry rides later I was home with my new to me planer. A quick tuneup and I was able to finish the second pass and get all the wood through a third time.

After planing it was back to the jointer this time was edge jointing one edge. This went very fast with the power feeder.

Finally I had a pile of wood that was starting to look really nice. I moved the power feeder to the shaper, set up an outboard fence and started putting on the grooves. I ran the jointed edge against the fence and the rough edge through the cutter. This eliminated the need to re-rip the boards and made them all uniform.

Once all the grooves were on I switched over and started the tongues, this was clearly the fastest part of the process as the boards were all straight and true for the first time. I'm currently half way done with the tongues and will finish them over the weekend.

The last step will be end matching, I know there are people who say this is not necessary however I feel it is very important and with the amount of work already into this project why would I not do it.

I read a lot on this forum and other sites before starting this project. It seemed like the consensus was that it is not worth doing. I understand that view, if you are doing this for money saving purposes it is not worth doing. However it was never my intention to save money, I did this as one step in building my house. When you come into our house the floors, stairs, trim will all be from our land, and the cabinets will be from a tree locally that was hundreds of years old.

steve joly
12-20-2013, 7:05 PM
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Ed Aumiller
12-20-2013, 7:28 PM
Agree with you... You & your kids will know where it is from and that is what counts...

Ron Kellison
12-20-2013, 7:44 PM
I did much the same thing a few years ago, although I started with air-dried 5/4 rough oak. It was a lot of work (fun!) cutting the pieces to length, jointing them on my 36" Craftsman jointer, planing to thickness, ripping to width then running them through my little router table to put a tongue and groove on them. Very satisfying to be able to get pieces the width I wanted and do the entire job myself!

steve joly
12-20-2013, 10:16 PM
http://youtu.be/bDikQLXrOZM

steve joly
12-20-2013, 10:18 PM
http://youtu.be/h8qxX4ba5P8

John TenEyck
12-20-2013, 10:27 PM
Great stuff Steve. My hats off to you for taking on that project, among all the others it takes to build a house. Looking forward to future installments.

John

steve joly
12-20-2013, 10:55 PM
http://youtu.be/5JSUNlggb3k

steve joly
12-20-2013, 10:57 PM
http://youtu.be/9cm5RX6tejc

Rick Markham
12-21-2013, 2:38 AM
What model is your powerfeeder? Has it worked well for you (it looks like it is doing a perfect job), and if you were to buy a new one, would you choose the same one or a different model? I don't mean to lead the thread on a tangent, but I am in need of a reasonable powerfeeder to do some similar work. (by the way, that's a nice stack of lumber) I myself just hauled back a 4' diameter Laurel Oak trunk! :) Something special about taking it from start to finish that exceeds the sweat, blood and tears involved. Lets face it, none of us are in this business/hobby to "save" money. ;)

steve joly
12-21-2013, 8:38 AM
What model is your powerfeeder? Has it worked well for you (it looks like it is doing a perfect job), and if you were to buy a new one, would you choose the same one or a different model? I don't mean to lead the thread on a tangent, but I am in need of a reasonable powerfeeder to do some similar work. (by the way, that's a nice stack of lumber) I myself just hauled back a 4' diameter Laurel Oak trunk! :) Something special about taking it from start to finish that exceeds the sweat, blood and tears involved. Lets face it, none of us are in this business/hobby to "save" money. ;)

I have 2 power feeders, both grizzly 3 wheel models. I have the 1/4 hp and the 1 hp ones. They both work really well, however if I were going to only own 1 I agree with what seems to be the consensus bigger is better. The 1/4 hp is only used on my band saw and table saw. The 1 hp is used for everything else. The larger wheels grip better and the larger feeder has more travel in the wheels allowing it to conform to varying wood thicknesses. I am looking for another power feeder so I don't have to move them and it will be a 1 hp. Hope that helps

Steve

Colin Helms
12-21-2013, 9:44 AM
Steve,
Would you mind showing how you have the powerfeeder mounted to your jointer. I to have the 1/4 Grizzly powerfeeder that is mounted to my shaper and would like to use it on my 8" Grizzly jointer as well to joint my material like you did above.

Thanks,
Colin

andy photenas
12-21-2013, 10:16 AM
well i hear where you are coming from for sure with the McMantion fad of late for sure. I wonder how well a jointer with a power feed works to straighten bords?
the way jointers differ from a planer really is only in the fact that next to no pressure is applied to the wood in the down direction. This is so you DONT take the bend out of the board before it hits the jointer blades in this way the tool takes the hi spots off the board leaving you with a board that sits flat with no pressure.

kudos to ur awesome project you will leave it behind for a long time and thts worth a LOT!

Mark Woodmark
12-21-2013, 11:22 AM
On a smaller scale, I just purchased a Pink Ivory log. It has been drying for over 10 years. I plan to saw it into 8/4 material. This will be the first time I have sawed a log up and I am nervious about it as the log was expensive and this is my first time doing anything like this

steve joly
12-21-2013, 11:56 AM
Steve,
Would you mind showing how you have the powerfeeder mounted to your jointer. I to have the 1/4 Grizzly powerfeeder that is mounted to my shaper and would like to use it on my 8" Grizzly jointer as well to joint my material like you did above.

Thanks,
Colin

I went back through my photos and I don't have any pics of what I did and I can't get to my jointer right now, the joys of working in a small space... I will take a couple pics as soon as I can get to it.

All I did was take some 3/8 plate and make a large 90 degree bracket that I bolted to the jointer stand. I added a diagonal brace to stiffen it after I first put the feeder on it. I also welded studs so that the feeder base just drops onto them which is not needed but it is nice if you are being lazy like I usually do and carry the whole thing over and drop it on. Location of the bracket is critical as it takes every inch of the stand when I am edge jointing.

Hope my description helps hopefully I can get some pics in the next couple days.

Steve

steve joly
12-21-2013, 12:07 PM
well i hear where you are coming from for sure with the McMantion fad of late for sure. I wonder how well a jointer with a power feed works to straighten bords?
the way jointers differ from a planer really is only in the fact that next to no pressure is applied to the wood in the down direction. This is so you DONT take the bend out of the board before it hits the jointer blades in this way the tool takes the hi spots off the board leaving you with a board that sits flat with no pressure.

kudos to ur awesome project you will leave it behind for a long time and thts worth a LOT!

My bigger is better comment was referring to the 1 hp power feeder vs the 1/4 hp feeder.

I think you are thinking a little different than I do regarding the difference between the jointer and the planer. The way I see it is the difference between the 2 is the reference surface to the cutter head. On a planer the reference surface is your table with the cutterhead opposite it so it will make anything that passes through it the same thickness. With the jointer the reference surface would be your outfeed table / fence. Therefore if your powerfeeder is positioned over the outfeed table it works very well. Not every board is going to be straight in one pass and it is not a replacement for working by hand on a difficult board. However the safety and speed are worth it with a project like this. Especially when every board that was really warped got cut in half before ever going onto the jointer.

For my purposes I will eventually have a powerfeeder that stays on my jointer, I was thrilled how well it works, that is not to say I will never spin it out of the way to do a board by hand.

Steve

steve joly
12-21-2013, 12:13 PM
On a smaller scale, I just purchased a Pink Ivory log. It has been drying for over 10 years. I plan to saw it into 8/4 material. This will be the first time I have sawed a log up and I am nervious about it as the log was expensive and this is my first time doing anything like this

There is nothing to be worried about it is a really fun process! Just be aware how little yield you will end up with, and if you want true 8/4 talk to your sawyer about what he should mill it at, my boards were 1.125 a 1.25 and they ended up at .8. I think I could have reasonably counted on having them clean with .25 of waste but I had way to much to assess each board so everything went through the planer the same number of times to end up exactly the same.

Mark Woodmark
12-21-2013, 12:19 PM
Thanks Steve,
I plan to saw the stuff myself. I need pieces 1-3/4 thick. After reading your post I may saw them more than 2 inches thick to start

Richard Coers
12-21-2013, 2:34 PM
On a smaller scale, I just purchased a Pink Ivory log. It has been drying for over 10 years. I plan to saw it into 8/4 material. This will be the first time I have sawed a log up and I am nervious about it as the log was expensive and this is my first time doing anything like this

10 years in log form? Isn't it filled with cracks?

Mark Woodmark
12-21-2013, 3:03 PM
Man I hope not, from the pictures I have seen it looks pretty solid. It is 26 inches long by about 9 inches in diameter. If it is not solid, I will be filling a lot of cracks with epoxy. I plan to make a box out of the stuff, so some sort of colored epoxy may add to the boxes beauty. What I am doing is a first for me. I may end up with a $400.00 firewood log

Ben Martin
12-21-2013, 6:17 PM
Great job Steve, quite an accomplishment!

Ben

Colin Helms
12-22-2013, 9:14 AM
Thanks Steve,

Now to try and make something to fit my Griz.

Colin

James White
12-22-2013, 9:30 AM
Hi Steve,

I did the same thing as you are doing. Only I wound up only doing about 700 sqft out of 2400 sqft and using the rest of the lumber for furniture. Never could I imagine how much work it would be. That said, that floor is the best looking floor in the house. I dyed it Mission brown with Transfast dye. It looks really good!

What part of CT are you in? I am up by UCONN Storrs.

James