Beginner looking to buy first hand plane

[Anthony Rausch]

Hello,

First post here on these forums, greetings.

I'm a beginner looking to take up woodworking as a hobby. Some of my projects that I'm planning on is a farmhouse style table, simple coffee tables, and side tables. Also I would like to give gifts to people out of wood, like cutting boards, serving trays, small stools for toddlers, etc.

I am told that Owl lumber in Chicagoland area can provide me with face planed and glue ready rips of lumber, so I can still possibly start projects but still learn hand planing techniques.

I would like to learn how to hand plane though because I think it will be a nice way to just spend free time, preparing lumber for my projects and feeling like I really put something together from scratch.

I would like opinions on a starter plane that can accomplish ($40-60) (emphasis on CAN, I don't need the best tool for each type of job yet, I would like one that is serviceable at all my planned projects until I feel like it is worthwhile enough to begin investing in a collection) planing and edge jointing wood for table tops, coffee tables, side tables, cutting boards, etc.

Something that has already been tuned up so all I have to learn is planing technique and sharpening technique.

Tools I own that pertain to woodworking

7-1/4" Circular saw
5" random orbit sander
3/8" and 1/2" drills

I'll be buying clamps, a router, and probably just build a super simple sawhorse bench table to get me started. But handplanes seem to be something I don't feel comfortable doing my own research on and would like some expert opinions based on my intended use and beginning budget.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

[Jim Foster]

Welcome to the Creek. When buying a plane, you need to consider how you'll hone the blade, and that the blade will need to be honed fairly often. With a minimal budget, I'd look at flea market finds. A good, serviceable Bailey #4 (Smoothing plane) can be found for $20-$40 pretty easily. A block plane may be a more versatile "first" plane for your work, and a good used one can usually be had for $20-$30. I'd also research grinding and honing and decide what method best suits your wallet and style. Depending where you are you may be able to find someone on the Creek that can help you get more acquainted with hand-tools, planes and sharpening methods in person.

[Anthony Rausch]

Thanks for your input.

Oh, right I completely forgot about how I would be keeping the blade sharp.

I think my father or grandfather has a bench grinder so I could provide them with the proper wheel, but I don't have a problem paying for a waterstone and some sandpaper, I don't believe those costs are too excessive.

[Mark Engel]

You have to be very careful using a bench grinder on plane irons and chisels, etc. It's very easy to burn the edge and ruin the temper. A slow speed grinder and/or water wheel would be preffered.
Do some research on 'Scary sharp'. This is a good way to get started for a relatively low starting investment.
The Worksharp 3000 is also a good sharpening tool.

I have tried both of the above methods and now I am using diamond stones. The diamond stones cost a bit, but they should last for a good long while and they cut quickly. You can use them dry or with water as a lubricant. The DMT dou-sharp stones are a fair value since you get 2 different grits on each stone.

[David Dalzell]

My first planes were a Stanley #5 jack plane and a Stanley low angle block plane. I paid around $20 to $30 for them on ebay (don't remember exactly). Togeather they can handle almost any woodworking job. Now I have many more planes. But I still have those two and use them frequently. For sharpening I have always used waterstones. I use 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit stones. I seldom use the 4000 grit stone. When sharpening the blades for the first time it is very important to flatten the back of the blade as part of the overall sharpening process. Once flattened you won't need to do this again. Each time you re sharpen the front (bevel) side of the blade give the back side a few passes with your finest stone. This removes the burr (caused by the sharpening process) and also continues to maintain the back flat. I don't know if you have heard of the infamous "slippery slope" but be carefull, it will snatch you up and there is no going back. Kinda like a powerfull drug addiction. Enjoy and welcome to the wonderfull world of transforming wood into objects of beauty.

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Anthony,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't indicate your location, but since you mentioned Chicagoland I imagine you are around there somewhere.

If you have some experience working with mechanical things buying from a flee market, Craig's list or yard sale should help you save money on a first hand plane.

In the Neanderthal Haven Announcements is a thread Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs with a few posts that may be very helpful for getting started, fixing up an old plane and also covering what you might want to look for when purchasing a used plane.

My thoughts would be to start with a #5. It is a little bit bigger than a #4. The #4 is better for final surface smoothing. The #5 is more of an all around "Jack of all trades."

Either would be fine starter planes.

As others say getting a sharpening set up is very important. Even with a bench grinder you will need to hone the blade a bit more after grinding.

For coarse work it is hard to beat 80 - 400 grit sand paper.

Often you can find old oil stones at the same places you will find old tools for sale. A lot of times they are not all that good. It takes a bit of knowledge about stones to know what you are getting.

In the middle of the country there is a Mid Western Hand Tool group or two that may have folks willing to offer a bit of mentoring to help get you going.

jtk

[Matt Stiegler]

I would like opinions on a starter plane that can accomplish ($40-60) (emphasis on CAN, I don't need the best tool for each type of job yet, I would like one that is serviceable at all my planned projects until I feel like it is worthwhile enough to begin investing in a collection) planing and edge jointing wood for table tops, coffee tables, side tables, cutting boards, etc.

Something that has already been tuned up so all I have to learn is planing technique and sharpening technique.


If you're looking for already tuned up, a very good route is to watch the classifieds here, you'll often find listings from some very reputable sellers of tuned-up planes. (EDIT: originally I suggested Walt (http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/new%20tools.html#PLANES), but I see he's on hold for health reasons, sad.)

As a beginner, flea markets and yardsales and craigslist and ebay are all much more of a shot in the dark.

One last tip, besides looking at what size plane you want, also do some research into different vintages. A Bailey plane from 1935 is not the same thing as a one from 1975. Searches like "Bailey plane type" will get you going, here's one (http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/)place to start.

Enjoy the process.

[Bobby O'Neal]

It is out of your listed budget but if I were In your shoes, knowing what I know now, I would save up and get a WoodRiver #6. I have done the cleaned up old Stanley thing and while they are serviceable tools for sure, they are no comparison to the WoodRiver, which I also have. Each Stanley I have instantly makes me want a new blade in it and that puts you in the price range of a new WoodRiver after that. Just my opinion and all the best as you get started.

[Stephen Cherry]

If I were a young person just starting out, I'd try to find a woodworking club to get involved in.

Basic hand planes are a dime a dozen, and if you check craigslist, yardsales, etc, they will pop up. If you join a club, I guarantee that someone there will have something they would let go for less than big money. I'd look for a stanley block plane, and a no 4. Sharpening is super important, and you cant avoid it, so you might as well embrace the idea of learning to sharpen.

Also, I'd check out the lie Nielsen show in chicago, they will show you everyting you might want to know.
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/usa/chicago

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Jim Koepke, start with a number 5.

You realize that you are starting down a slippery slope.

You can never acquire too many planes. The next thing for you to discover are quality handsaws.

[Jim Koepke]

I agree with Jim Koepke, start with a number 5.

You realize that you are starting down a slippery slope.

You can never acquire too many planes. The next thing for you to discover are quality handsaws.

Well, what happens is you run out of room to put them away...

When it comes to hand saws learning to sharpen them is also a good thing.

+1 on the LN Tool Event if one is being held in Chicago.

jtk

[Judson Green]

Yep a vintage Stanley 4 or 5. Can't go too wrong there. I'd hunt at flea markets or craigslist. Or just ask around like your buddies and coworkers, you might be surprised.

[Anthony Rausch]

Thanks for this. I will most definitely attend this event, but I can't wait until April to buy my first plane!!!

I think I'll be browsing the classifieds for a No. 5. Seems to have the most traction. I won't be buying for a few weeks due to travel and finishing up a house project, but I wanted to start my research early.

Seems more now I need to focus on having a plan for sharpening in place. I think i'll avoid the bench grinder and focus on getting the proper stones.

Thanks so much for advice so far.

[Winton Applegate]

? ($40-60) ?
ahhh ?
that's the price of a plane blade.


One plane ?
Buy this :
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/low-angle-bench-planes/low-angle-jack-plane/ (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/low-angle-bench-planes/low-angle-jack-plane/)
This IS an inexpensive hand plane.

These are "expensive" hand planes.
http://www.marcouplanes.com/ (http://www.marcouplanes.com/)

Don't fart around with cheepy Joe stuff. You will thank yourself if you bite the bullet now.

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/IMG_1089_zpseb5e9e15.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/IMG_1089_zpseb5e9e15.jpg.html)

[Tony Wilkins]

Another vote for a Stanley #5. Get on the list at Hyperkitten.com as he posts a variety of great tools aimed at the user (rather than collector) fairly often. My first plane was a Union #5 from Don W ( http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com ) and he usually has several good user planes as well as a great blog on restoring them. Both these offer a lot better chance of getting a great plane compared to one in the wild.

[Danny Thompson]

A word of warning on an old #4 or #5 as a first plane. Without a frame of reference, how will you know whether you are tuning it properly or when you've reached "good enough". My struggles triggered the following cautionary diatribe, with equally passionate responses: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?70466-Don’t-do-it!-Why-newbies-should-NOT-start-with-old-planes .

6 years later, I almost never reach for that #4, favoring the LN 102 Low Angle Block, Lee Valley BU Smoother, or LV BU Jack. If I were doing it over, I'd get one of these, first. Or, if you can, as others have said, find a mentor/coach/club, try out a few and make up your own mind.

[Anthony Rausch]

? ($40-60) ?
ahhh ?
that's the price of a plane blade.


One plane ?
Buy this :
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/low-angle-bench-planes/low-angle-jack-plane/ (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/low-angle-bench-planes/low-angle-jack-plane/)
This IS an inexpensive hand plane.

These are "expensive" hand planes.
http://www.marcouplanes.com/ (http://www.marcouplanes.com/)

Don't fart around with cheepy Joe stuff. You will thank yourself if you bite the bullet now.

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy298/noydb1/IMG_1089_zpseb5e9e15.jpg (http://s801.photobucket.com/user/noydb1/media/IMG_1089_zpseb5e9e15.jpg.html)

I'd have no problem purchasing this one as my second plane, but I need to know first if the hobby is for me. While it seems that LN and LV keep their value, I still don't want to have to rely on that if I want to get rid of it.

[Anthony Rausch]

A word of warning on an old #4 or #5 as a first plane. Without a frame of reference, how will you know whether you are tuning it properly or when you've reached "good enough". My struggles triggered the following cautionary diatribe, with equally passionate responses: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?70466-Don’t-do-it!-Why-newbies-should-NOT-start-with-old-planes .

6 years later, I almost never reach for that #4, favoring the LN 102 Low Angle Block, Lee Valley BU Smoother, or LV BU Jack. If I were doing it over, I'd get one of these, first. Or, if you can, as others have said, find a mentor/coach/club, try out a few and make up your own mind.


Good points. I browsed your thread.

Earlier yesterday I was searching eBay and was feeling antsy as I was watching bids end, but I thought to myself the same thing as you, I'll have nothing to compare to so how do I know what I'm getting.

I was hoping that these classifieds would have people selling older planes that they'd at least be able to offer an opinion on. So in essence I'd also be paying for their opinion. I've heard that these planes are sometimes picked up for $10-20 and someone who knows planes can either get it up to snuff, or know it's good to go. That's the premium that I'd want to pay.

Maybe my price range is off. If a no.5 condition unknown is $40-60, then I'm not interested. If it's maybe $80 for a no.5 that someone is willing to advertise that it's a good plane and that in the right hands good results can achieve, then I'll look in that range.

I will probably try and look around for a workshop in the next few weeks that I can attend and maybe learn some things before I make a purchase.

[Danny Thompson]

Rereading the earlier thread, a good option is rehabbed plane from a reputable rehabber. I wonder:

- Are Clint and Sandy still out there?
- Does anyone have another trusted source?

[Winton Applegate]

need to know first if the hobby is for me.

my answer was :

Oh.

So I get this message pop up:


The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.

I may as well add:
My feeling is you are headed here:
http://www.amazon.com/Machine-Revolving-Bullet-Bayonet-Lights/dp/B009H56VWK/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1387602834&sr=1-1&keywords=toy+machine+gun

When you expect to be here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLFYvG6MsZU

no comparison really.

PS: be sure to wear your ear protection.

[don wilwol]

http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/tools-for-sale-2/

I suggest a smoother and a good block to start with. Vintage is the way to go.

[Jeff Bartley]

Anthony,
I'll be restating some things already said but I'll frame my answer like this: if you're willing to spend $50 to try handplanes you should go ahead and get a Lee Valley or a Lie-Nielsen.........then if you don't like it (which is highly unlikely) you can sell the plane and lose $40-$50 bucks reselling it here or elsewhere. If you spend that $50 on junk and try to use an unfettled plane you'll be spinning your wheels. I takes a bit of knowledge to tune a plane......easy after you've done it but daunting to a beginner. And as others have stated; find some other woodworkers in your area so you can see the amazing finish a well-tuned smoother can leave on the surface of a beautiful piece of wood. Yes, you can learn on your own through books, SMC, etc (which is what I did) but it takes a lot longer. What's hard to explain in words on a computer is how sharp 'sharp' really can be.....so you'll need to see that in person. I would also encourage you to attend the Lie-Nielsen hand tool event: everything you need to know to get started with handplanes is there and you'll walk away having met some great people. Oh, and they'll have every tool Lie-Nielsen makes to test out.
If the going is rough at first don't give up easily, the reward is worth it!
Lastly, everyone that has suggest old tools here is not giving you bad advice, old tools work just as well, I just feel that to get a jump start a modern plane is a better choice. And last lastly: read David Weavers very good article about chipbreakers!! I think you can google search it. Good luck and welcome to SMC and hand tools!

[Kees Heiden]

How do you recognise if yor plane is good enough if you never have used a plane before? Easy, you learn as you go. At first your plane will be perfectly allright on pine, but not so great on oak. So you learn to sharpen better. Then you find that you can't take thin shavings well enough, so you flatten the sole. The the plane starts to chatter on very hard woods, so you work on the bedding and maybe add a thicker chipbreaker. Learning on the job. Somehow I learned this way too.

Overhere the first plane would be a Stanley #4. They are everywhere for cheap. And it is great plane, very usefull for all kinds of stuff.

[Matt Stiegler]

Also, the best plane in the world isn't very useful without the means to hold your workpiece firmly and ... stable-ly. A sawhorse worktop may not fit the bill, even if it's perfectly usable in other ways (like with power tools). It may be that you'll want to figure out a more stable workbench option before you race out to get your plane.

[Matt Stiegler]

Maybe my price range is off. If a no.5 condition unknown is $40-60, then I'm not interested. If it's maybe $80 for a no.5 that someone is willing to advertise that it's a good plane and that in the right hands good results can achieve, then I'll look in that range.


For what its worth, I paid $45 + shipping for my #5 type 11 in excellent shape from Walt a few years back. I think your price range is realistic.

[Anthony Rausch]

Also, the best plane in the world isn't very useful without the means to hold your workpiece firmly and ... stable-ly. A sawhorse worktop may not fit the bill, even if it's perfectly usable in other ways (like with power tools). It may be that you'll want to figure out a more stable workbench option before you race out to get your plane.

Noted. I was building my sawhorses today because I'll need it set up for my other projects but I have a stud mounted cabinet and worktop (approximately 2x8ft in my garage that I could mount some vices on. It would be very sturdy.

[Joel Goodman]

I would start with a small block plane. Either vintage or ideally a LN 102 ($95 in iron) or the Lee Valley Apron plane (get the A2 blade version $89). The LN and LV planes will work wonderfully out of the box and as you get more experience and more planes you will still always have many uses for them. You will learn how a plane should perform which will help you later on. Vintage planes are great but not so much for the first plane unless you have someone to show you the ropes. You will need a combo 1000/4000 or 1000/8000 waterstone (or some other sharpening system) and a cheap honing guide to start as well.

[maximillian arango]

Since I am a beginer, I will have a different perspective.

Get the cheapest early stanley that you can find that is not cracked, pitted with rust, and complete. I picked up a Stanley number five number type 11 as well, but in not the best shape, and it costed 15 dollars after shipping. To get this working I will learn how to lap the iron, sharpen the plane, and everything else to get it working. Will it suck? Yea most likely for most but I like this kind of stuff so it is fine with me. I just think it is too important to not know how to rehab a plane when using them. When you're using a plane you'll most likely have to tune a plane, you'll better understand that after rebuilding a plane. Would you rather learn how to work on cars with a civic or a 911? At least with the civic their is less risk if you make a mistake like with bob's plane.

Also start with a number 4 it will be more useful when you start and as you get better you will progress to a 5 then a 7/8 then specialty planes.

I've done a lot of reading for this, nothing I say comes from experience and it really is just my common sense. Also 300 for 1 plane or 300 for all your tools to start that needs a little help from you so then you learn how to tune/fix your tools which that learning experience will last you a lifetime.

[Chris Vandiver]

If you want to start your woodworking experience by restoring planes, then by all means, by an old plane. If you want to start working wood right away, then buy a new plane of some quality. Sharpening tools is the first thing you need to learn, so it might be best to start with a chisel. Buy a quality 3/4-1" chisel(wider is easier to learn to sharpen on), some sort of sharpening media and a book or video or maybe take a class if one's available. If you end up not liking the hand tool route, you won't have invested much and you can always use a chisel for carpentry type things around the house. There are a number of quality chisels available starting with Narex brand(available at Lee Valley and other places). Buck Brothers are also good, inexpensive chisels(available from Craftsman Studio). For your first chisel, I would recommend new over vintage(so you don't have to start by restoring it). That's my advice.

[lowell holmes]

Garrett Hack's book on Hand Planes is full of good information.

I still get mine out and read it occasionally. Another set of books that is good for beginners are by Tage Frid (rip).

[Tony Wilkins]

I have Christopher Schwarz' book 'Hand Plane Essentials' and it's go a lot of information but to me a lot of the information is repeated over and over because it's a collection of articles he's written on the subject. One of the few of his books that I'm a bit disappointed in. You can get the gist of what he's saying in this appearance on the Woodwright's Shop -- http://video.pbs.org/video/2172600556/

I recently have found and really like the DVD's from David Charlesworth that Lie Nielsen has. The second one is the one particularly on hand planing. (The first is on sharpening a plane blade.) It's a great resource - especially for someone using power tools for milling first.

This gentleman in England has a lot of videos on planing that show a lot of Charlesworth influence: http://www.youtube.com/user/WOmadeOD/videos

Some of these may help you narrow down what you want to do. Hope that helps.

Tony

[Hilton Ralphs]

I have Christopher Schwarz' book 'Hand Plane Essentials' and it's go a lot of information but to me a lot of the information is repeated over and over because it's a collection of articles he's written on the subject. One of the few of his books that I'm a bit disappointed in.


Tony, are you disappointed in the content or the fact that it's a merely a collection of previous ramblings?

[Brian LaShomb]

I went down this road a few years ago. I started reading Christopher Schwarz, and bought a lot of tools. I'd recommend buying a #4 Stanley and watching Paul Sellers make a workbench on YouTube. He takes a lot of the mysticism out of getting started. And a workbench is needed, so it's a great first project.

I'd also recommend the M-WTCA Tool Meets. Great place to get some deals and ask questions.

[Tony Wilkins]

Previous ramblings lol. I do believe there is value there but it's repetitious and the longest article is on a tool collector. Another problem with the book is that there are articles from his 'evolution' so there are contradictions when read as a whole - eg sharpening.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Given your budget, I'll throw in another vote for a Stanley #5, followed by a #4 and then a 60 1/2. My unscientific observation has been that for every Creeker who advocates avoiding old Stanley planes, there are 9 or so who for a variety of reasons are perfectly happy with using old Stanley/Bailey planes. To each his own, just know if you go the old Stanley route, you will not be alone.

Checkout the classifieds here. You might even post a "WTB" (wanted to buy) in the classified forum. While you can find planes in $20-$30 range, most of these will require some tuning, and depending on where you live and how much free time you have may take a while to find at that price. Look items over carefully. Some of these old tools have just been neglected, while others have been abused. Missing and broken parts are common.

As a budget-constrained beginner, you might be better off spending $40 - $60 for something that has already been cleaned up and sharpened. Many of the planes sold here are "former users" out of the seller's workshop. You might have to be a SMC contributor ($6 a year) to see the classifieds here. A very smart annual investment.

I suggest that you scrap the idea of sharpening plane irons on a grinder. Scary Sharp is a low cost gateway sharpening system. Some guys love it and stick with it - others move on to other systems. A couple of decent water stones will cost you more than your first couple of old Stanley hand planes, but for a hobby wood worker, they likely will last several years. You will need a sharpening system for the chisels you are going to soon discover are also a needed addition to your tool collection. Whatever you go with for your plane irons will work for your chisels as well.

If you buy something from the Creek, and the seller isn't already promising a sharp blade, ask the seller to sharpen and hone the blade for you.

Good luck in your hunt for your first hand plane.

[Steven Lee, NC]

I wouldn't buy anything that would require you to get it into working condition without someone to help you. I have been down this path and you would have almost no idea what you are trying to achieve.

[Kees Heiden]

Not so gloomy. It's not that difficult. And the old ones work pretty well without fettling. Most difficult part is learning how to sharpen.

My first plane was a 1990's Stanley Handyman. And on pine it even worked reasonably well, after I learned to put the bevel down.

[steven c newman]

This might be in the "Your mileage might vary" area, but, here goes: Started out a long time ago with just a blue Stanley #110 block plane and a Great Neck #4. Did a lot of work with the 110, because that #4 just wouldn't work. Inherited an old Union #3, learned to sharpen it up. The GN #4 went up on the shelf to stay. Still had a lot of power tools in " the shop, Norm Abram style of work. last year or so, started to"collect" a few hand planes. Kept tuning some up, and trying them out. The ones that seemed to work best for me, stayed around, the rest just were resold. Now have about 22 vintage and one new plane in the shop. Liked the #5 size so well, I have four of them. Each set up a little different from each other. Number 3 and 4 sized planes are nice, with the #3 size being used the most. Had a #8 T9 c Joiner plane, was just too big for what I do. Now have a #6c, instead. Block planes? Seems like there are like rabbits, leave two alone in a drawer and the next thing you know, you have five or more in the drawer. At one time, I had 15 of the little guys! Got it down to three a few times, currently, it is at 6 for a headcount. While I do some work with Pine, there is also a few nicer hardwoods that show up in the shop. I found out Hickory does NOT like to be planed, so a re sharpening was in order for that. Again YMMV...

[Jim Koepke]

Not so gloomy. It's not that difficult. And the old ones work pretty well without fettling. Most difficult part is learning how to sharpen.

My first plane was a 1990's Stanley Handyman. And on pine it even worked reasonably well, after I learned to put the bevel down.

That is funny, but also happens to a lot more of us than you would think.

The good thing about buying an old #4 or #5 is Home Depot has a replacement 2" blade for $3. Often old plane blades have a bit of pitting along the back side where wood dust set and sucked in some moisture. The Buck Brothers blade from Home Depot still needs to be sharpened.

My woodworking quest started without the resources available to beginners today. SMC was a lucky find in answer to a Google search about Boiled Linseed Oil.

Any one who wants to use a yard sale find plane has a lot of resources available to them right here.

There are many members here who are willing to offer in person help around the country and even the world.

A tool show or event will impart an understanding of what modern planes and tools can achieve so one knows what they are aiming for when restoring an old plane.

It really comes down to ones personal style and choices. I like to keep old things working. Yes new things also appeal to me but no one will know when they look at a finished piece whether the plane was used to smooth the surface was purchased brand new or is over a century old.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Jim,
Has anyone found a way to take the backlash in the blade adjustment wheel? The issue seem to be with the Y shaped lever and the wheel.

Maybe the minds in this group can come up with something if no one has.

[steven c newman]

Simple (so he says...) the "hole" that the lever uses to connect with the chipbreaker needs to be the exact size. Seen way too many slots that were way too big.. The "Y" coming up through the slot had a LOT of play. Side to side doesn't mattter, need that for the lateral to work. Front to rear needs to fit the "nub" of the Y yoke tightly, no slop.

Maybe silver solder the hole/slot closed, then just add only enough for the nub to come through?

[Jim Koepke]

Has anyone found a way to take the backlash in the blade adjustment wheel?

In addition to what Steven mentions the brass adjuster tends to wear. This is especially true if the lever cap screw is set too tight. For my use the lever cap screw only needs to be tight enough for the plane to hold its adjustment. Sometimes I will make it a touch looser so the adjuster can be backed off slightly to allow the blade to slip back with a few shavings.

On early models the Y lever is cast iron so it will not bend. (DAMHIKT!)

To see where the backlash on a plane exists take the blade out of the plane and wiggle the pawl (top of the Y lever or yoke) that engages the chip breaker cutout. Any back and forth movement will be due to the play between the yoke and the adjustment wheel.

Next remove the adjuster wheel, replace the blade, chip breaker and lever cap to their work positions. Now wiggle the bottom of the Y lever. Any back and forth movement will be from the play where the pawl meets the chip breaker.

The two areas of play are additive. Usually the play between the yoke and the retaining pin is minimal. I have seen some replacements with nail that have increased play.

The backlash doesn't bother me a lot. I have thought of a shimming system made from flat metal leaf springs to tighten things up at the brass adjuster.

jtk

[Kees Heiden]

Make sure the brass adjuster wheel turns freely on the threaded shaft. Now you can take up the slack with a single flick of your thumb. No need to even take your hand from the handle. Backlash ain't no problem for me.

[James Owen]

You might consider first buying a high quality smoothing plane, such as a Lie-Nielsen #4 or the Veritas equivalent. That will show you what "right" looks and feels like.
Then buy Mike Dunbar's book on restoring vintage tools; the section on planes is exceptionally thorough. Buy an old Stanley and restore it. Then, use it to plane some boards while working on a project.
There is nothing mysterious or difficult about restoring a plane, and even if you don't buy a premium quality plane from LN, LV or another quality maker for reference purposes and use, you'll still be able to tell whether your plane is working right by the shavings you get, and, more importantly, by the surface on your piece of wood. Trouble-shooting is not that difficult, either.
Jump in and get to planing! :-)