Life without a table saw

[Zahid Naqvi]

I have been contemplating this for a few months. My shop is based in one half of a two car garage. I am not sure I can have both a tablesaw and a bandsaw and still have room to walk around. So how accurate is a bandsaw for ripping? Can I live without a tablesaw. I am a semi neander, in that I try to do as much as I can with hand tools, but things like thickness planing and ripping are best done by machines.

the flexibility of a bandsaw will be good to have but how much would I miss the quick setup dead straight ripping of a tablesaw. I do have a router table, so I can manage the dadoo/groove type stuff.

[Don Baer]

I have about the same amount of space a you do. I have a table saw but no band saw. There are a few time when I could use a band saw but those are very few. My table saw is a bench top type and I have it on a moveable table that I made with wheels on one end. When I need to rip something I wheel it out. When I'm done I wheel it back. MY DC is a shop Vacuum which I have perched on a shelf on the bottom of the bench for the table saw. So it moves with the saw.

[Steve Cox]

You'll miss it tremendously.:( However, that is how I started life as a woodworker. My first (and only for a while) two machines were a planer and a bandsaw. You'll need to be or become proficient with your hand planes but everything that can be done with a TS can be done without it. It's just not as easy or convenient. I was lucky in that I didn't know how nice a TS was. If I had to go back now it would really be a bummer.

[Michael Ballent]

Oh you would be surprised how much you can hold in a 2 car garage :D. But for your question, there are a lot of people in Europe that pretty much use a BS for most of their work, such as ripping. Since you said that you are mostly doing Neander type work I would think that you could get by with a BS alone, but you will be doing a lot of planing to get the edges of the wood so you can make panels. Don't forget that you can put all your machines on wheels so you can move things around as well.

I too have 2 car garage, but I have kicked the cars into the driveway, so I can use all the space. In there I have a hybrid TS, 14" BS, 6" jointer, Legacy Milling machine, router table, a boatload of wood on racks, lunch box planer, 16" drill press, 1100CFM bag DC, 2 workmates, etc. I am not as fast as others since I need to move a machine into place and then put it back for the next machine, but this is a hobby, so I guess I have to make do with what I have.

[Jim Becker]

While I would be at a loss without my table saw, someone who does primarily neander work but prefers machines in the ways you do should be well served by a good bandsaw for ripping, resawing and heavy cutting of curves when you don't prefer a fret saw or similar. I suspect you don't use sheet goods very often and those can be easily dealt with by employing a guided circular saw system.

[Timo Christ]

My shop is only 14 square meters, approx. the size of a one car garage. Right now i only have a very small table saw (45 pounds, 6" fence to blade max distance..) which is really too small. I am upgrading to a 19" bandsaw and a jointer/planer combo machine (10")... no space for a big(er) table saw.
Surely productivity is lower without a table saw, and i don't know yet if a perfectly set up band saw can cut as accurately as a TS. I will find out..
The BS has a number of advantages over the TS, such as much larger cutting height (resawing) and you can cut dovetails and other joinery.
My productivity is limited anyway (2 pieces of furniture per year or something like that), so i guess i won't take a hit with using a BS vs. a TS.
I also have a guided CS setup (Bosch). This is VERY handy in a small shop!

[scott spencer]

I'd rather have the TS than a BS, but I do have both. I understand people do it, but I sure wouldn't want to be without a TS. My TS sees action about 4:1 over any other tool. My shop is about 1/3 of a two car garage. I have a full size TS and a 9" BS sitting on a 3' lazy susan along with a couple of other benchtop tools. The TS can be covered and used as a work surface when not in use. The wing can also double as a router table. I can resaw up to 6-1/2" boards on the TS. If I need to resaw larger boards, I go see a friend with a bigger BS...but it's rare I need to do that.

My main bench doubles as an outfeed table to my TS. Just about everything is on wheels, but only the planer moves regularly, and even that cabinet is shared by the CMS. Even the kid's 6 bikes are stored in twin bike racks that are mounted on a rolling dolly. Up goes the door, out go the bikes. The space is manageable when I keep it neat, so it's comfortable once in a while! :D

[Corey Hallagan]

I definitely would rather have a table saw, I am not a fan of band saws. I would opt for the EZ system and a good circular saw vs settling for no table saw. They are very versatile. If you are a band saw guy, you could still get a decent BS.

Corey

[TK Donovan]

I have a euro combination machine and a good quality bandsaw. Before I got the combination machine, I used a Unisaw 10 /1 over a bandsaw for ripping. Now I use the bandsaw almost exclusively for ripping. Then I finish dimension everything in the planer.

When another combo owner told me of this practice I was really skeptical, but I'm used to it now and like the results. I think if you're planing by hand, then ripping on the bandsaw would work fine. If you're going to plane to finished dimensions with a machine, a planer with a smooth, continuous (no rollers), accurate bed will give good results.

[Jay Knoll]

Zahid

Oh, you're going to get LOTs of opinions on this thread. Check out Gary Rogowski's article on "My five essential power tools" in the FWW Power Tools Techniques" publication.

I started out with a Dewalt benchtop table saw, I still have it, but then I bought a GOOD bandsaw (but a different Good than Jim's -- let's not start another equipment war :) ). It has wheels so I can move it back against the wall or out into the center of the garage - like you I have 1/2 of a two car garage "officially" available to me, but I seem to keep the other half full of projects.

Anyway, the BS is my "go to" tool for much of my cutting (I also use a GS system so between these two tools the TS doesn't see much action.
In addition to its obvious features, I really like the fact that I'm not worried about kickback when ripping when I use the BS

Jay

[Jamie Buxton]

People built fine furniture long before tablesaws existed. People can still build fine furniture with what some might consider an ill-equipped shop. In woodworking, there's usually a dozen different ways to do most anything. Some of them might take a little longer than others, but they still work. Big machines and gorgeous shops may make things go faster, but that's all.

[Steve Rowe]

Zahid,

I know of people who do make use of a bandsaw in lieu of a tablesaw. The limitations are obviously the width of the material you can rip on the BS. One advantage is the BS will take up less floor space.
Steve

[Harry Goodwin]

I have gradually like all of us put together a shop but the table saw not only does the straight ripping but you can cut dado's rabets (spell) and a lot of work that will upgrade your opportunities. I still have a 10" Delta saw BS Homecraft I have had for about 55 years. I also now have everything else that I need. Harry

[Jim Becker]

It's important to remember that Zahid stated that he is largely a Neander woodworker and uses a few power tools for certain tasks to get through them so he can get back to making shavings, etc. Dados, crosscutting, etc., don't necessarily have an "electron burning" appeal to many folks who work like that as there are alternative methods that do not require a table saw. That certainly was the basis for my original answer above.

[Jerry Olexa]

I would miss my TS more than any other power tool in my shop. I have a band saw and am not impressed w its accuracy and control. (could be the operator)IMHO

[Keith Christopher]

I have to agree with Jim here. When I think about it my TS is mostly used to dimensioning lumber down, I rarely even use the dado blade anymore. Long ripping operations and what not. And I think now with my guided system I don't even have to worry about that so much. But if you get a portable TS or a small one you can keep out of your way you should be ok.

[Mark Stutz]

Zahid,
I ripped all the 8/4 hard maple I used for the base of my bench, on my JET 14" BS. Straight and accurate, but needs jointing. Not as fast as TS but definitely can be done. I think about the only thoing I couldn't do without a TS are sheet goods.

[John Miliunas]

Zahid, lot of great info, thus far. I have both, a nice cabinet saw, as well as a Laguna 16HD. If someone put a gun to my head and said I had to get rid of one of them, I'd have to say the TS goes. In my case, that wouldn't be quite as hard a decision as you may imagine. I have the complete EZ CSGS, which can take over virtually every TS function, although one may want to use the router adapter for dado's and rabbets. :) On the flip side, there ARE things which neither, the TS or a CSGS can do. I do some turning and I have yet to find a way to cut out bowl blanks on either, the TS or with a SCGS!:) And, for some things, the SCGS is infinitely easier and safer to do them. For example, tapers on any width stock and initial jointing of rough stock come to mind. I know that the OEM's of the SCGS are even addressing the issue of repeatability, for which the TS still rules as king. Now, given all the above and, with the hopes that the above said gun won't be lined up to put a new part in my head, I'll keep my TS and the SCGS. :D But, if my working area were more confined and I couldn't have both, the TS and BS, I'd be looking into a good bandsaw.:) :cool:

[JayStPeter]

I wouldn't want to, but I could probably live without a tablesaw if I had a good bandsaw and a guided circular saw system.
That said, I managed to fit a Unisaw w/50" fence and all my other tools (including bandsaw) into my half of a two car garage. My half also contained my motorcycle and a bunch of kids toys. Everything was on wheels. There were essentially two tool locations, the TS and another. All tools were moved to one of these two spots. My planer (and other benchtop tools) would sit on the TS when in use and the jointer would occupy the other spot. The 50" fence helped as I could still use the TS with the planer deployed. I hung my mitersaw and 12' of support/fence chest high above a bench. It was tight. When big projects were being done, the car had to stay outside some.

Jay

[Corey Hallagan]

I think he is largely a neander due to lack of the machines and room to do otherwise from his past posts regarding what tools he would like to have and the limited space and budget. Given that Zahid, I would be in heaven to have half of a 2 car garage. My space is 1/4 of a single car garage... but you can still do lots of woodworking in a small space. Once you have the money to invest in the power tools of your choice, you can do alot with all the mobile bases that are around today.. or make your own as many others do. If you are really longing to have a power shop, I suggest trying out a bandsaw and table saws of your choice if you can, see what you like best. Save for a decent model. For a tablesaw, you don't have to have a cabinet saw. 3/4 of woodworkers will never own a tool like that, myself included, nor do you have to have the latest in bandsaw technology. Plenty of good models in between if a bandsaw becomes your choice. In the meantime, keep with the neander methods, I did the same thing. You will really appreciate some of the fine tools that are available when you do get them and learn to do some cool stuff using hand tools. At the time I got into wood working, some of the craftsman junk was truely the most I could afford. I didn't have the money to spend due to raising kids etc. Some didn't last to long, some I still have. Over the years I have slowly upgraded. Don't sweat it... enjoy yourself, whatever your style. Just a few thoughts,
Corey

[John Bailey]

I'm building a new shop and have no plans for a table saw. However, everything I build has curves - kayak paddles, boats, dulcimers. I'm going to start out with a 14" bandsaw and at some point get a larger bandsaw, if and when, I feel the need. Also, I don't like working with plywood, so I don't have to deal with large wide boards. When I do, I've always made some sort of jig and used a circular saw. For repeatable type straight line work, I've use an old cheap Craftsman radial arm saw. You have to fiddle with it to cut straight, but it's worked for 20 yrs.


John

[Jules Dominguez]

Harry, you must be older than me, or was that 55-year-old saw a typo? Do you still get around ok?

I have a tablesaw and a bandsaw. I wouldn't want to give up either of them, but if push came to shove, the bandsaw would go.

[Michael Perata]

Zahid

Take a look at the Fesstool ATF and their table system.

[Steven Wilson]

When I had my 14" Jet bandsaw I couldn't imagine not having a table saw. After upgrading that bandsaw to a Minimax MM20 I started using it more and more for operations that I use to perform on a tablesaw. With a good 1" wide carbide tipped blade I'm very comfortable ripping stock on a bandsaw. At most a brief swipe with the jointer plane is all that's needed to have a nice clean surface. I would only want the capabilities of a great table saw (sliding table saw) for handling large glue ups or sheet goods. But for rip cuts and jointery work (dovetails, tennons, etc) a good bandsaw is all that's needed. What's left is panel processing and something like the Festool circular saw - guide rail - MFT setup can do a very respectible job processing panels.

[Tim Sproul]

Given my fondness for frame and panel construction, I think I would sorely miss my table saw. Despite my previous rumblings that the table saw is the most dispensable of my current "stationary" power tools. Then again, loss of a router and/or the FMT would also likely make my fondness of such construction dissipate rather quickly..... :)

[Bill Fields]

Zahid:


Jin Becker is right on as usual. A GUIDED circular saw used carefully can do a lot of work. I use a simple 2 x 6 steel stud clamped both ends to cut/rip everything from solid core doors to MDF.

I have an ancient (that's good!) Craftsman 12" radial arm saw that was my basic power tool for the past few years. Then a got a pretty good hybrid TS (Hitachi CF 10L)--have not used the RAS since, but I'm sure I will for repetitive crosscuts and dadoes (shelves).

My BS is hardly used because I don't know much about how to use it.

Sounds like your WW goals are different from mine--I don't have the skill or patience for fine furniture work. Benches, sliding drawers, rough fixtures are all I can do for the moment.

Keep trying!

BILL FIELDS

[Frank Hagan]

I have a shop that is in a one-car garage space (the third car bay of a three car garage). A table saw and band saw fit nicely in it without too much trouble.

Rip width is an issue with a band saw, but you can get around that by using a circular saw for ripping of panels. I prefer the lower height of a table saw for ripping operations, though.

My sacrifice in my shop is that I don't have a large bench. I alternate between using the table saw top and a Workmate with a top clinched in it. For a neander, that is probably not an option.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Man what did I start here :eek: :eek: certainly wasn't expecting such a volume of responses.

My neander inclinations are driven by two things; personal interest and can't justify spending that kind of money on power tools. I do have a Delta contractor grade table saw and a self built router table. Everything is on shop made mobile bases so I do move them around. I enjoy making joints by hand and finish planing wood etc. I really haven't built anything big with sheet goods, except for when I was making head boards for my kids' bed, on that ocassion Dennis Peacock let me use his shop for the big cuts. And my productivity is limited to 1-2 major projects a year, sprinkled with a box here a box there. So I have plenty of time to hand smooth any unevenness in BS cut edges.

My half of the garage also stores a lawn mower, three childrens bikes and other odds and ends. I would love to have both a BS and a TS, but the space is limited and so is the budget. When I analyse the choice I think I can do everything a TS does on a BS, albeit with more difficulty and perhaps less accuracy. But there is no way I can cut any curves on a TS or resaw wood. Besides the ease in dust collection of a BS is an added bonus, not the mention the safety factor.

So far the responses have been more in the favor of the TS.

[Jim Becker]

So far the responses have been more in the favor of the TS.

But I think many of those responses are largely based on how the responder works. You need to make the decision based on how YOU work. I think you already are in favor of the BS in that respect...

[Jon Olson]

You're post gets me thinking....have to ponder this question....We're all told that Table saws are the heart of every shop...but do they need to be. Guide systems, bigger BS blades, powerful routers....I guess a table saw doesn't need to be the center of a shop...but I still can't say I'd give mine up :)

Jon

[Keith Hooks]

The BS seems to be a better compliment to hand tool use than the TS. Another thing to consider is that the BS is arguably safer to operate than the TS with less chance of kickback, lower forces involved in the cut, etc. Plus, the bandsaw has a narrower kerf so there's less waste generated.

That said, I have a TS that gets a lot of use and a wimpy little BS that gets very little. And let's me honest, I'm more than a little afraid of my TS :) It has such big teeth!

[Dave Wright #2]

Zahid,

You have mentioned that you already have a tablesaw, but I don't pick up in your posts if you already have a bandsaw or not.

If you already have a bandsaw: Don't ask us...just do a couple projects without using the tablesaw to see how you like it.

If you do not have a bandsaw: Be careful about this decision. Bandsaws are much less predictable than tablesaws. Ones that are expensive and properly maintained cut fairly well. Bandsaws that are less expensive and/or not kept well tuned are pretty sad tools. A moderately priced tablesaw, on the other hand, works very consistently with very little attention from its owner.

Your work needs to be the guide. The curves in my projects are important to their appearance, but a typical project might have several dozen straight cuts for every curved cut. I would be insane to make the dozens of cuts more difficult just so I could have an easier time with a couple curved ones. I would be better off making the curved cuts with a Sawzall that giving up the tablesaw.

Keep in mind that there's more to a cut than smoothness. Accuracy is vital too. Rip 10 pieces at a good tablesaw and they'll all mic the same size to within a few thousandths of an inch. Rip them at the bandsaw and clean up with handplanes and you'll probably get 10x the variance. Assembly and squareness go a lot better when you're working with consistent stock.

I make these comments despite being a handtool enthusiast. I have plenty of planes and enjoy using them, and my bandsaw gets a reasonable amount of use, but the tablesaw is the center of my shop. Remember that the reason 18th Century woodworkers did not use tablesaws is because tablesaws were not available.

Regards, Dave

[Michael Sloan]

I started out my woodworking life building furniture in my kitchen. I bought a very good, very small bandsaw (Inca 710), a router and router table, and a bunch of hand tools (planes, saws, chisels, etc...).

Then I moved into a tiny house, with a tiny basement shop (maybe 150 square feet), and added a small jointer/planer (250 mm Inca, with tersa blades). I did a lot with this setup.

My shop is now 1/2 of a two car garage, with a full combination machine, MM CU300S (saw, shaper, J/P), lathe, and an MM16 Bandsaw. If my workshop space ever gets smaller, I would go back to the setup with a high quality bandsaw and the small jointer/planer, with the additional of a guided circular saw system. I would not get rid of my bandsaw (tool #1), or my Jointer/Planer (tool #2).

Mike

[Ron Taylor]

In thinking of a response to this thread, I followed one previous poster's advice. I considered my current project which is a relatively simple, by-the-plans router table (Norm's). One particular cut requires 8 identical pieces at something like 3 5/8" X 6 13/32". My table saw didn't even break a sweat. With any other tool in my shop except perhaps the RAS, I'd STILL be trying to get them all the same..... no, I'd still be trying to get the FIRST one right. I can cut decent curves with a hand-held jig-saw... even better, an inexpensive table top scroll saw, but even with a top-of-the-line guide system and a good CS, there is no comparison to the efficiency and accuracy of a decent TS.

Some have mentioned cutting sheets but repetitive dimensioned SMALL pieces is also a major factor.

Just my 2 cents.....

[Jay Knoll]

Hi everyone

Well, from past threads on this subject (including one from your's truely) the repeatability subject comes up as an advantage of the table saw.

Well, depending on your application there are other ways to skin that cat.

I'd rather use my SCMS with a stop to cut multiple narrow pieces -- and I don't have to build a cross cut sled for the TS

Echoing Michaels comments, with my Festool MFT and guiderails I can cut large sheet goods without worrying about kickback, or having some one else help me.

Here's are a couple of links to reviews of the MFT,

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/festool_mft1.htm

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fest-10.htm

One of the nice things about the MFT is that I can fold it up and put it against the wall when I'm not using it, so it conserves space. Set up with a stop I'm assured that every piece I cut will be the same dimension. I haven't added the ruler that John Lucas did on his table, so setup isn't quite as easy as "dialing in" the dimension on a TS fence. And, you've got to remember which side of the guiderail is the "waste side"! After one mistake, now all my rails have an notation and arrow point to WASTE.

[Timo Christ]

I don't have a bandsaw yet.. but i'm planning to buy one.
Is repeatability really that bad on a big (19") bandsaw with fence + mitre sled?
With well adjusted guides i don't see a theoretical reason why it would be worse than a TS.. :confused:
Please band saw owners, give us some feedback on this matter :) thanks!

[Dino Makropoulos]

, but even with a top-of-the-line guide system and a good CS, there is no comparison to the efficiency and accuracy of a decent TS.

Some have mentioned cutting sheets but repetitive dimensioned SMALL pieces is also a major factor.

Just my 2 cents.....

Hi Ron

Your two cents means a lot to woodworking. :cool:
This weekend we will post pictures of the EZEZ-Repeato.
With narrow stock capacity down t0 1/4" and repeatability down to zero with min. final product down to 10.000" (yes.ten thousands of an inch)
And all this without moving and resetting the fence.
And without holding the wood either.
We're testing all circular saws from the smallest to the monster 16" Makita.
Results and pictures tomorrow.



































And If you already have a good tablesaw....don't worry. :(














You can make a nice Smart Table with it. :rolleyes: :D
















Thank you guys for all your help. Without the SMC the Dead Wood Concept was Dead? :eek: :eek:

Now we can keep our schools open to woodworking and construction trades.

And one side note to my Festoolians Friends. The 10.000" was done with my ATF. ;) :cool:
I think the time is right to talk about Better Woodworking.

My best regards to all.
YCF Dino

[Frank Pellow]

Life without a table saw can be very good :) -as long as you have a GCS+RS (guided circular saw + router system).

[Jim Becker]

I don't have a bandsaw yet.. but i'm planning to buy one.
Is repeatability really that bad on a big (19") bandsaw with fence + mitre sled?
With well adjusted guides i don't see a theoretical reason why it would be worse than a TS.. :confused:
Please band saw owners, give us some feedback on this matter :) thanks!

Timo, it can be quite repeatable, but only if you dedicate a blade for straight cutting, such as a carbide tipped blade. That will give you virtually TS repeatability. Blades that are used for scrolling will inherently get "lead" a lot quicker, so keeping even a "regular" blade dedicated for resaw, rip and crosscut is a good idea.

[Tim Sproul]

This weekend we will post pictures of the EZEZ-Repeato.
With narrow stock capacity down t0 1/4" and repeatability down to zero with min.

Well....it is about time!

:rolleyes: :D

[Steven Wilson]

I don't have a bandsaw yet.. but i'm planning to buy one.
Is repeatability really that bad on a big (19") bandsaw with fence + mitre sled?
With well adjusted guides i don't see a theoretical reason why it would be worse than a TS.. :confused:
Please band saw owners, give us some feedback on this matter :) thanks!
I had a Powermatic 66 tablesaw and a 14" Jet bandsaw. I upgraded the Jet bandsaw to a Minimax MM20 and was able to rip solid stock on the bandsaw (1" carbide blade) as or more accurate than I could with the PM66 tablesaw. The bies fence on the Powermatic is generally too long for accurately ripping solid stock. The Delta unifence, or the fence on my new saw, is better. Sometimes that wood likes to move. A properly tuned bandsaw with a blade of sufficient beam strength can be a very accurate tool for ripping. As for cleaning up bandsaw marks, if you use a rip blade on a tablesaw to rip stock you almost always need to cleanup those marks so I don't really see much difference between using a table saw or bandsaw and then cleaning up. I keep a jointer plane finely tuned just for the purpose and it's only taking a few thou per pass. Besides, you can rip 4" , 6", or 8" thick stock with ease on a bandsaw - try that on a 10" tablesaw. When I was awaiting the arrival of a combo machine I was without my tablesaw for a couple of months. I basically had hand tools, a great bandsaw, and a pumped up lathe to work with. I was still able to get projects done, just needed to use a few different techniques. Yes the tablesaw would have been useful but it wasn't missed too much.

[Timo Christ]

Jim and Steven,
thanks for your feedback!
I am now more confident in my planned BS purchase.
Will definitely keep at least one blade for straight cuts.

[Bob Noles]

I have been contemplating this for a few months. My shop is based in one half of a two car garage. I am not sure I can have both a tablesaw and a bandsaw and still have room to walk around. So how accurate is a bandsaw for ripping? Can I live without a tablesaw. I am a semi neander, in that I try to do as much as I can with hand tools, but things like thickness planing and ripping are best done by machines.

the flexibility of a bandsaw will be good to have but how much would I miss the quick setup dead straight ripping of a tablesaw. I do have a router table, so I can manage the dadoo/groove type stuff.

Zahid,

Since discovering my E-Z GCSS I rarely bring out my folding TS anymore. My TS is not a Mercedes by any means, but it has served me well in the past. I have just added a BS to my shop as of yesterday and I truly believe that there is a day coming that I may consider eliminating my TS altogether. My shop is small (13X17) and all of my large tools are mobile and taken outdoors to actually use when weather permits. My shop merely stores them along the walls for the most part. I do on occassion crank one up inside and use it when the weather is bad, but even with a DC I still hate having to clean up the mess.

Anyhow, I will have to go against the popular vote here and say, yes, I CAN live without a TS. It may take an extra minute or 2 for GCSS set up, but I can get all the accuracy and repitition needed for my purposes out of my E-Z system. I was just looking at another post here today and notice some forthcoming enhancements to that system that appear to make it even more useful. As a neander, you can appreciate the extra patience and time expended in working with wood and tools and I would think that a good GCSS would be no problem in taking the place of a TS.

Each of us works differently and has different needs. This is just my "opinion" and certainly works for mine. I am always looking for better ways to utilize my limited space and a GCSS is one of them for sure.

Now, if I can just figure a better way to store my ply :eek:

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Zahid, given your work style, I would think the BS would win easily. That said it sounds like you have no room for tools because of the usual garage infringements. I have a 10x12 metal building on the new house's property. It's not perfect and would need a base (It sits on a slab, now). I'd be happy to donate it to your yard if you could come get it. That way you'd have room for all that other stuff OUTSIDE the garage...er shop.

I'm going to replace the metal building with a shop addition to house the DC, compressor and the automotive tools. We should be moving in around the first of August or so. If you're interested, it's yours for the taking!

Then you could have your BS and TS both....:D:D:D

[Frank Pellow]

... I truly believe that there is a day coming that I may consider eliminating my TS altogether.
...

Good for you Bob! I think that things will work out just fine. The shop at my cabin does not have a table saw and I find that I can get along fine without it (not quite as well, but fine).