Don't do this if you don't need to run a moulder head on your SawStop

[J.R. Rutter]

But if you do, here's one way to make it work. Otherwise, the saw won't even power on. Be sure to turn off the sensor with the key to prevent any accidental firing. Basically, you can fool the sensor into thinking that the brake is next to a blade by screwing a piece of heavy gauge wire (heavy so that it doesn't flop into the cutter) to the aluminum brake. Then loop the wire up next to the arbor nut, making sure to keep it away from the cutterhead.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yi4rLhSzM8M/UrHGxCkL9BI/AAAAAAAADJk/nHOoDn4RzOw/w552-h736-no/IMAGE_134.jpg

Mission accomplished.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xdP2dMq64WY/UrHGy1iDH9I/AAAAAAAADJs/ehKgEg41cyI/w981-h736-no/IMAGE_135.jpg

[Rod Sheridan]

Very creative.....................Rod.

[Matt Meiser]

Or run a v-groove bit in a router table.

[johnny means]

I think you just solved the specialty blade problem all the nay sayers bring up. Now we can all cut our fret slots with our little teeny tiny blades on our Sawstops.

BTW, what do you think of the Magic Moulder?

[J.R. Rutter]

I've also done it that way, Matt, but router bits don't do well with VG fir and hemlock, IME. Too much fuzzy grain. Plus, registering the spacing is so much easier on the table saw, especially with a TigerStop on the SawStop ;-)

The Magic Moulder is great for doing beaded and v-groove panels. Very smooth and dead easy to change plugs. I have not used it for anything else since I have good shapers.

[johnny means]

+1 on the router bit issues. I do a lot of v- folding using a router bit to make the cut. The problem with that is that there is no cutting action going on at the tip of the cutter. I would compare it to a spinning nail at the tip. It also, in my situation, calls for a lot of measuring, jigging and clamping. The MM along with a feeder would remedy a lot of my problems.

[Aaron Berk]

Educate me here.

What would be the outcome if the wire tangled in the blade for some freak reason?

Looks a little risky, but I also raise panels on a RAS with no blade guard, so I'm not saying I would attempt what you posted., or thats it's stupid

Just that a dangling wire that close to the blade sounds suspect to damage.

[Bob Falk]

JR,
Having a shaper, I have always wondered about the usefulness of these TS molding cutters, but you have certainly pointed out a very useful application, especially with DF. Thanks, bob

[J.R. Rutter]

Educate me here.

What would be the outcome if the wire tangled in the blade for some freak reason?

Looks a little risky, but I also raise panels on a RAS with no blade guard, so I'm not saying I would attempt what you posted., or thats it's stupid

Just that a dangling wire that close to the blade sounds suspect to damage.

It would rip the wire out and wrap it around the cutterhead. If the saw isn't set to bypass mode, it would ruin the brake cartridge and possibly the cutterhead. That is a 12 or 10 ga wire, so it is pretty stiff. You could also bend a strip of aluminum to do the same thing, which may be better long term. Thanks for the idea.

[Mike Heidrick]

I read about that awhile back. Creative idea.

I thought of machining a sleeve for the brake.

Best to just run the parts through a moulder or shaper and feeder.

Dont you have some crazy 5axis moulder JR?

[mreza Salav]

Thanks for sharing the trick. I don't have any of those heads but it is certainly useful to know how to bypass the system for that one odd cut.

[Bernie May]

I don't understand the need for this. I thought you could just turn off the brake system.

[Matt Meiser]

You can turn off the brake, but the saw still won't start without a brake cartridge properly adjusted to the blade.

[Mark Bolton]

I read about that awhile back. Creative idea.

I thought of machining a sleeve for the brake.

Best to just run the parts through a moulder or shaper and feeder.

Dont you have some crazy 5axis moulder JR?

That panel would be tough to run on a shaper barring running it like a router table (already covered)

[joe milana]

Interesting. Does the wire actually have to go up to the arbor, or could it simply come in close proximity to any part if the saw chassis?

[johnny means]

Interesting. Does the wire actually have to go up to the arbor, or could it simply come in close proximity to any part if the saw chassis?
The Sawstop arbor is electrically isolated from the rest of the saw. The wire would have to be in close proximity to the blade, the arbor, or some portion of the isolated circuit.

[J.R. Rutter]

I read about that awhile back. Creative idea.

I thought of machining a sleeve for the brake.

Best to just run the parts through a moulder or shaper and feeder.

Dont you have some crazy 5axis moulder JR?

I mentioned this method a while back, but didn't have a picture until this week. My beaded and v-grooved panels are solid reverse raised, then have the details cut in afterwards. It may be debatable, but for cabinet doors, I think it is faster, easier, and better to do it this way as opposed to assembling panels from actual shaped staves. I do have a nice 2-axis, 5-head moulder that can run beadboard staves, but it would create a different set of issues.

[Bob French]

Thank you J.R.! I tried this on my new 3 hp Saw Stop when I went to put my 6" dado on. Bypass mode will not work, but your easy fix did and requires no modification of the saw itself. Just want to mention that my wire touched the loose handle when I raised the table and this shut off the saw, but did not fire the brake. For those who try this, watch for that handle and be sure your wire is routed clear of it.

[Warren Lake]

is the cutter high speed steel or carbide. How would that set up work for cleaning out a haunch? in that case you would be cutting cross grain. Looks like thats the best choice for what you are doing as long as your panel is flat on the table.

[J.R. Rutter]

is the cutter high speed steel or carbide. How would that set up work for cleaning out a haunch? in that case you would be cutting cross grain. Looks like thats the best choice for what you are doing as long as your panel is flat on the table.

Carbide tipped. With a backer fence of some sort it would work for cutting the angle part of the haunch. Still need to clean up the flat portion though. A true hauncher cutterhead has a flat portion between angled sides so that it can do both left and right handed cuts.

[Warren Lake]

no id want an angle both sides and the flat then it have to be the miniumum of my cross rails whatever that is cant remember now. Ive cleaned out several ways have a MOrso chopper but that just does the V first started them on the table saw not too bad I had a fence with stops both sides One guy here think Peter has the digital fences both sides and chopper with the v's and flats ill look up what their narrowest is that has flat and v's both sides thanks on that. Have a few other ideas and someone had made a pnuematic machine here years back with precision guides.

JR what size is that head and what maximum speed does it say? if run on a slider there are different speeds so could change settings

thanks

You know I cross cut since the start with cabinet saws one with an excalibur sliding fences on both sides of my saw, that allowed me stops both sides and could square left side slide right to the stop and cut to length that was a good set up., It fell apart in that the sliding tables were first generation not good for sheet stock but fine for solid. Now with a small slider im already thinking could I put a second slider on the right and digital stops both sides and essential have the same set up only way more accurate and then the stops as well. Maybe reasons it would not work in the past that saw was just dedicated to cross cutting other one for ripping. T hie nice thing with a slide both sides is never having to spin the material round to cut to length

[Jim Becker]

BTW, what do you think of the Magic Moulder?

My cabinet-maker neighbor has used one for years...it's a quality product. He primarily uses it for custom grooving panels like the OP.

[J.R. Rutter]

JR what size is that head and what maximum speed does it say? if run on a slider there are different speeds so could change settings

5 7/8" for the holder/head, and the tips project out from that. 5,200 RPM max.

The Magic Moulder is a handy thing to have. I have one for the saw arbor and one that is 1.25" bore for the shaper. It is balanced pretty well and the cut quality is good.

[Martin Wasner]

5 7/8" for the holder/head, and the tips project out from that. 5,200 RPM max.

The Magic Moulder is a handy thing to have. I have one for the saw arbor and one that is 1.25" bore for the shaper. It is balanced pretty well and the cut quality is good.

I have both as well. I'm shocked at how well the shaper one works.

Supposedly somebody bought up the magic moulder line and is manufacturing heads and plugs again. Had I known they were going under, I would've snatched up a pile of plugs. I only have a handful and there's a pile of them I wish I had. Mostly I use it just like you do, putting beads and grooves in panels.

[Mike Cutler]

Wow! does that cutter head bring back memories. :eek:

If you run that cutter head at 2" spacings on the vertical and 3" on the horizontal, and set to about 1/2" the thickness of the wood. It makes really cool speaker front grates, for old air suspension, cabinet style speakers. Some guys ran them on the diagonal, but it was tougher.
Back it up with a little sound foam and you're all set.

[Warren Lake]

more questions sorry to turn you into a salesman how wide is the head. You said they are Carbide can you get one for corrugated as well? then be able to use some shaper knives. could then get the one that is 1 1/4 and bush id down for the table saw as well and it would work on either.

[Joe Calhoon]

Warren,
W Moore has these. I don't know if they make them or just resell after LRH went under. Corrugated will not fit these. Look under plugs and you can see the designs.
https://www.wmooreprofiles.com/table-saw-tooling/magic-molder-heads

[Jim Becker]

Warren, the concept of the MagicMoulder is that the precision manufactured "plugs" are weight balanced to insure the whole assembly runs smoothly, balanced and vibration free. I suspect that supporting third party cutters wouldn't work for that. As Joe points out, there are a number of great profiles available in native format.

[Warren Lake]

Moore has one for right and left tilt that takes corrugated. its machine recessed around the nut.

Had it in notes from the past. I had asked about getting one made up here and guys said no. They had made a head for my small moulder in the past. I never pursued it as I had two cabinet saws with 5/8" arbors and up here they said no, down there they said busch it up. I didnt think it was such a good idea so passed. Now with the small slider 1" shaft size would be okay, in fact the 1 1/4 one and a bushing then it would work on both machines and take corrugated. weather the Magic moulder carbide would work better than high speed would take some time to test. It would be cutting cross grain so its a different operation. Thanks JR for the specs and Martin for saying it works well. sure the cross grain thing will be different. Martin you said you have both? two sizes of Magic moulder or one Magic and one Moore? If I remember the Moore one had a choice of two or four knives as well will have to look back think the price was a aprrox 300.00 US

[Larry Edgerton]

no id want an angle both sides and the flat then it have to be the miniumum of my cross rails whatever that is cant remember now. Ive cleaned out several ways have a MOrso chopper but that just does the V first started them on the table saw not too bad I had a fence with stops both sides One guy here think Peter has the digital fences both sides and chopper with the v's and flats ill look up what their narrowest is that has flat and v's both sides thanks on that. Have a few other ideas and someone had made a pnuematic machine here years back with precision guides.

JR what size is that head and what maximum speed does it say? if run on a slider there are different speeds so could change settings

thanks

You know I cross cut since the start with cabinet saws one with an excalibur sliding fences on both sides of my saw, that allowed me stops both sides and could square left side slide right to the stop and cut to length that was a good set up., It fell apart in that the sliding tables were first generation not good for sheet stock but fine for solid. Now with a small slider im already thinking could I put a second slider on the right and digital stops both sides and essential have the same set up only way more accurate and then the stops as well. Maybe reasons it would not work in the past that saw was just dedicated to cross cutting other one for ripping. T hie nice thing with a slide both sides is never having to spin the material round to cut to length

That is one of the jobs I keep the SSC dado machine around for, does a surprisingly good job, stops on both sides, and can do multiples. I bought the machine cheap for the router and thought it was kind of a joke, but turns out I was wrong, sometimes it is just what Dr Goodwood ordered.

Morso makes a hauncher,, but its kind of pricy.

[Warren Lake]

HI Larry

thanks think Joe had a Morso and found some tear out on the back side. I have one but its only the mitre one so it cuts a V only. NO tear out, I didnt even put fresh knives just left what is in it in but you have to cut the V before the slot for the panel or it can break out there. Its a bit archeic I know however have my reasons for now.


this was the moore head i had saved and bailed after I enquired with a company that made me a moulding head in the past up here. THeir point was good forget it on my cabinet saws now a 1" arbor becomes sensible. If they still make them they had a right and left tilt model and can see its three knives and corrugated. THe Magic moulder was two knives and pre made carbide, two diff options



369498

[Larry Edgerton]

HI Larry

thanks think Joe had a Morso and found some tear out on the back side. I have one but its only the mitre one so it cuts a V only. NO tear out, I didnt even put fresh knives just left what is in it in but you have to cut the V before the slot for the panel or it can break out there. Its a bit archeic I know however have my reasons for now.




this was the moore head i had saved and bailed after I enquired with a company that made me a moulding head in the past up here. THeir point was good forget it on my cabinet saws now a 1" arbor becomes sensible. If they still make them they had a right and left tilt model and can see its three knives and corrugated. THe Magic moulder was two knives and pre made carbide, two diff options



369498

Thats a thought. I have an old slider Minimax TS with a 1 or 1 1/4" arbor depending on whether it is set to run a dado or a blade. The speed would be too slow it seems like though. I do have some 10" tenoning heads that I could run on the saw to check it out, would just have nickers on one side though, not sure how that would work.

I had Nordic tool make me a bit for the SSC. works good. No sense reinventing the wheel for something I do not do that often.:)

[Warren Lake]

larry dont you think that is getting a bit large? not like you have a shaper spindle there just a shorter arbor? maybe fine but first thought that came to mind

[Larry Edgerton]

larry dont you think that is getting a bit large? not like you have a shaper spindle there just a shorter arbor? maybe fine but first thought that came to mind

It is aluminum Warren, so would not scare me. Weighs less than the 10" dado stack I run on the saw. I don't really need to , just curious.

Stuck on site for a while now, miss playing in the shop.

[Warren Lake]

okay makes sense out of curiousity what brand are the tennon heads Scmidt? two knife or four knife? have you run them to make tennons on your shaper with corrugated and what size tennon and do they work well. thanks