Cutting a Whole Bunch of Thin Strips

[Tipton Lum]

I needed a whole bunch strips of Mahogany for some solid edging. That's a lot of tedious ripping.
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Cutting thin strips between the blade and fence can lead to binding, burning and chatter. Basically, inconsistent results. Ever notice how you can get perfect ribbons of wood off the waste side of the blade? The issue with cutting finish sizes off the waste side is that it usually involves a lot of subtracting fractions, or counting little lines. This is how I do it without the math and and line counting.

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What you need:
Clear packing tape
Fine point Sharpie
Feather board

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First I cover the scale indicator with the clear packing tape. This allows me to mark on the fence indicator with the Sharpie and then peel it off when I'm done.

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For this example I want a final 3/16". I just trued up a piece of stock to 5" so that is where the cursor was set. Now comes the only brain work involved. I take my finish size, 3/16", add an 1/8" for the width of the saw kerf, plus a fat 1/16" for clean up with the thickness planer. I marked that total, a fat 3/8", on the indicator to the left of the cursor.... 4-5/8" minus.

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Although not really necessary, I find that a small amount of pressure just in front of the blade from a feather board helps.

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To make the first rip, I move the fence cursor to my Sharpie mark and make the cut.

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For each subsequent rip, just move the cursor to the position of the Sharpie mark. No brain work.

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I find that by fixing my eye on the scale where the mark is, then loosen and move the fence, I can lock it down right on the money.

Now I need to figure out how to eliminate saw kerf waste.

[Ed Aumiller]

Good method... will try it...

[Matt Day]

Instead of measuring each time and placing the cursor mark, you could also place something attached to the table top (magnet, or something in the miter slot) as a stop that keeps the offcuts the same width. Rockler and places like that usually sell something for this as well.

[john bateman]

If you use something like this jig as a repetitive stop and a glue line rip blade you can skip the cleanup on the planer and get pretty exact thicknesses too.

[johnny means]

A UniFence or Euro style fence eliminates the need to readjust the fence after every rip. Simply pull the fence so that the rear end of the fence is in line with the front of the blade. Rip as usual. The keeper side will fall away from the blade after the cut.

[mark kosse]

I have to go with a thin rip jig too. It makes thin pieces easy if it locks down well. I built mine and had to make some adjustments to get it locking well. Now it rips thin strips nice. Use a thin 7.25" blade to save wood. I don't remember the model but it's a Freud 40 tooth and it cuts nice. I glue up off the saw.

[Mike Heidrick]

Id probably try my bandsaw/feeder. My table saw does not like small blades without being creative. The resaw king blade is pretty thin. Feeder on a router table or shaper for cleanup if needed but id strive to just make the bandsaw cut perfect. Mechanical feeding is very beneficial in surface quality and is a lot safer for these narrow pieces. Be careful on that jointer.

[Bill Huber]

I have a Freud thin kerf glue line rip blade and the Rockler jig which works very well together.

I cut 25, 1/8" x 1/2" strips that were 22" long and didn't have to clean them up and they were all the correct size.

So I really like the Rockler jig, does a really good job.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Have you tried a Grripper? It's made for holding those small/thin rips. It can rip as thin as 1/8" against the fence. The Grripper holds the wood and there's no chatter/binding against the fence. You do need 2 of them.

The Rockler stops should work well also. That is cool. Another tool to buy.......

[Jeff Duncan]

First off, if something works for you and your comfortable with it then by all means keep using it. Having said that that's a LOT of extra effort for a pretty simple task. Set your fence for the thickness you need and run your stock through. If your getting burning or chatter or any other problems address them. Sharpen the blade, improve your hold downs etc., etc.. Since your running them through the planer after anyways it shouldn't matter even if there is a little bit of burning.

good luck,
JeffD

[Dick Mahany]

Glad your method works well for you. Agree that ripping thin strips between the fence and blade is not a good program. Here's another simple home built jig. The tape reads fro right to left and allows direct thickness setting.

[Jim Rimmer]

I have a Freud thin kerf glue line rip blade and the Rockler jig which works very well together.

I cut 25, 1/8" x 1/2" strips that were 22" long and didn't have to clean them up and they were all the correct size.

So I really like the Rockler jig, does a really good job.
+1 on Bill's comment. And the Rockler jig is too cheap to try to make one.

[Rick Moyer]

I believe you could also just turn around backwards one of those orange Benchdog featherboards. Use it just like Bill shows with the Rockler jig.

[Bill Huber]

I believe you could also just turn around backwards one of those orange Benchdog featherboards. Use it just like Bill shows with the Rockler jig.

The problem with using a feather board of any type, is that they flex, that is what you want in a feather board but not in a stop for cutting strips.

[Rick Moyer]

The problem with using a feather board of any type, is that they flex, that is what you want in a feather board but not in a stop for cutting strips.
No I didn't mean use it like a feather board. I meant, turn it backwards, so the feathers point left. The small solid part is used similar to your Rockler jig.

[Bill Huber]

Judging from some of the responses, I assume I did not convey the simplicity of my method.
Let me try it again:

First run your board through the saw to true up the edge. Do not move the fence yet. The board and your fence are now "zeroed out".
Take the thickness of your saw kerf add it to the desired thickness of your strip.
Using the scale on the front fence rail as a reference, place a mark to the left side of the cursor on the clear scale indicator, the total of the strip and kerf.
Now look at and remember the exact "measurement" of the mark on the scale.
Re-align the fence/cursor to that "measurement" where the mark was on the scale and lock it down.
Make your cut. The "waste" piece will be the exact thickness you wanted.
That's it. Repeat as many times as needed.

Each time you move the fence, the "mark" automatically leapfrogs to the setting for the next cut. There is no measuring, there is no calculating. It is read it, set it, cut it, period. Sorry guys, no new toys to buy, no fun jigs to build. This is a simple, no fuss, no muss way to cut strip, after strip, after strip, without NOTHING.



As with many things in woodworking there are many ways to do the same thing and will get the same results. The way you cut your strips works good for you. I can see if you don't have a jig and need to get your strips cut the way you are doing it would work and will get each one very close to the exact measurement you need. For me there is just some things that worry, like.

Putting tape on the fence cursor, well not putting it on but getting it off and not leaving sticky stuff that will collect saw dust.

Remembering the exact position of the mark, what if is between the marks on the scale or not on the mark and just touching it a little, what is a little. When cutting inlay strips they need to be exact.

Being the line you make on the tape is not a double line the angle you look at it can make a big difference.

Calculating the exact thickness, blade plus the width of the strip, that can be a problem with some blades that are not an exact width, like thin kerfs or blades that are not exactly 1/8".

Now lets talk about simplicity.

With the jig Dick has made or the one from Rockler.

Place the jig on the saw and measure from the blade to the bearing and lock that setting.
Move the jig back in front of the blade and lock it down.
Start cutting strips and each one will be the exact same width and you don't have to remember the position of anything. When I say the exact width you can measure it with a caliper and it will be with-in a few thousands of an inch each time.

I am not trying to put down your way of cutting strips it is just for me I can see to many chances for me to screw up which I do to often.

I would also suggest that you go to ShopNotes magazine's web site and submit the idea to them, you just maybe could get a $100 for the idea.

[Tipton Lum]

Making the batch of Mahogany strips in the first picture was what prompted the original post. They were ripped from 8'-9' sticks, hence the use of a feather board to assist in beginning the rip. The other pictures were 'staged'.
Judging from some of the responses, I assume I did not convey the simplicity of my method.
Let me try it again:


First run your board through the saw to true up the edge. Do not move the fence yet. Now your board and fence are now "zeroed out".
Take the thickness of your saw kerf add it to the desired thickness of your strip.
Using the scale on the front fence rail as a reference, place a mark on the clear scale indicator to the left side of the cursor, the total width of your strip and kerf.
Now look at and remember the exact "measurement" of the mark on the scale.
Re-align the fence/cursor to that "measurement" where the mark was on the scale and lock it down.
Make your cut. The "waste" piece will be the exact thickness you wanted.
That's it. Repeat as many times as needed.

Each time you move the fence, the "mark" automatically leapfrogs forward and registers the setting for the next cut. There is no measuring, there is no calculating. It is read it, set it, cut it, period. This is a simple, no fuss, no muss way to cut strip, after strip, after strip, with NOTHING but your saw. The packing tape was so I could peel off the mark when I was done.


Give this way a try. You'll giggle like a school girl when you see how simple it is. I DID!

[Rod Sheridan]

A UniFence or Euro style fence eliminates the need to readjust the fence after every rip. Simply pull the fence so that the rear end of the fence is in line with the front of the blade. Rip as usual. The keeper side will fall away from the blade after the cut.

That's the easiest method, you can simply attach a straight piece of wood to your fence that ends at the front of the blade, and rip all your strips.

The Unifence/Euro fence has a lot of significant improvements over the standard fence, all of which can be duplicated with some add ons to your existing fence...Rod.

P.S. Now add a stock feeder and you'll really be able to rip a bunch of strips accurately and quickly. My Hammer B3 Winner has a tilt up feeder, I use it on the saw as well as on the shaper......Rod.

[Tipton Lum]

A UniFence or Euro style fence eliminates the need to readjust the fence after every rip. Simply pull the fence so that the rear end of the fence is in line with the front of the blade. Rip as usual. The keeper side will fall away from the blade after the cut.

I did a quick mock up of what I think you were describing. It works. I only ran some short scrap through it. I was a little uncomfortable running the stock on the waste side, un-supported, especially toward the end of the rip. Full length boards may exasperate that.

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[Jeff Duncan]

Judging from some of the responses, I assume I did not convey the simplicity of my method.

I think the method was clear to most, I think some of us still think it's more complicated than need be. Again, set my fence to dimension, rip stock, repeat as needed. No moving the fence, no adding tape to the cursor, no math, just rip and repeat. Also no need to get all the pieces needing to be ripped the same exact width first;)

But as I said, if it works for you then it works for you. When I work it's about getting things done quickly and efficiently so I'm probably less patient than most:o

good luck,
JeffD

[Bill Huber]

Also no need to get all the pieces needing to be ripped the same exact width first;)

When I work it's about getting things done quickly and efficiently so I'm probably less patient than most:o

good luck,
JeffD


So if you want things done quickly and efficiently why would you not want them cut the correct width to start with. You could go from the table saw to the project without having to sand or go to the planer?

[Tom Ewell]

I agree, most of 'us' did figure out what Tipton was doing, don't think of it as anything more than another great tip for those of us who prefer to rip thins on the free side of the blade.

I can setup and safely rip strips down to roughly I/2" before I get antsy and go to the other side of the blade when I can't clear the pawls on my splitter (Shark setup) with a push stick.

I have the Rockler jig for positioning but Tipton's tip sounds like a decent alternative if one is going to move the fence any way. It eliminates the need to use the rip stock as an index for the Rockler jig which can also introduce error, particularly when the rip stock is of any length and a bit harder to square up to the fence.

[Brian Backner]

I remember a thread, but I don't remember on which forum, of a jig created by a guy from Poland. He was incredibly resourceful and talented. Anyway, he built a "carrier" sled made out of melamine. Rather than placing the board to be sliced into thin strips on top of the sled, it was butted to the edge of the sled. The sled was run against the rip fence, and the thickness of the strips was adjusted by moving the fence. Rather than using a small lip to hold the end of the board, he had drilled a series of holes into the edge of the sled and connected them all to a source of vacuum strong enough to hold the board during the ripping process. So, you would cut a strip, disconnect the vacuum, move the board against that edge again, reapply the vacuum and continue. The big advantages were that the was no adjustment to the sled or the fence, so all the strips were exactly the same width/thickness; in addition, because you were running the sled against the fence, you could get every last possible strip out of a given board - even when the waste might only be a 1/16" or less. Try ripping something that narrow by itself!

I'll see if I can find the thread. I think I may actually have saved it for future reference.

[Mike McCann]

I agree the rockler jig works great for this. No adjusting after initial set up up just moving the fence over after each cut.

[Bill Huber]

I have the Rockler jig for positioning but Tipton's tip sounds like a decent alternative if one is going to move the fence any way. It eliminates the need to use the rip stock as an index for the Rockler jig which can also introduce error, particularly when the rip stock is of any length and a bit harder to square up to the fence.

I am not sure I understand what you mean by using the ripped stock as an index on the Rockler jig.

When I use the jig I just move the stock against fence and then against the bearing on the jig and make the cut then move the stock and fence over again to the bearing.

I cut 1/16" strips all the time with the Rockler jig and have no problems.

[Rick Potter]

Just goes to prove the old 'saw', "There's more than one way to skin a cat".

I cannot remember his name but the above mentioned member from Poland had some ingenious jigs. As I understand, he unfortunately passed away. I, for one, sure miss his great postings.

Rick Potter

[John McClanahan]

This has worked for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXQncneobeI


John

[Tom Ewell]

I am not sure I understand what you mean by using the ripped stock as an index on the Rockler jig.

When I use the jig I just move the stock against fence and then against the bearing on the jig and make the cut then move the stock and fence over again to the bearing.

I cut 1/16" strips all the time with the Rockler jig and have no problems.
That's how I use it as well, Bill.

My reference to 'rip stock' is the board that slides over with the fence to the bearing on the jig, if that board is long, as most of my stuff is, then it can be awkward handling this 'indexing' of fence to bearing while keeping the board aligned with the fence. A long board, especially if the balance point of that board is well beyond the front edge of my saw, tends to slide out of alignment relative to the fence during the move even with adequate and level support on both ends of the board. This is not a big deal in the long run, just something else to check and verify when using this jig, failure to do so can introduce error in thickness of the 'ripped stock'.

For the shorter rips , the Rockler jig is good stuff.

Tipton's solution just offers another option that can eliminate the additional handling of the board when positioning the fence for the next cut. Precision might be influenced by eyesight and memory a little more with this one, however. :)

[Greg Portland]

This has worked for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXQncneobeI


JohnThis works for slats. Don't try anything super-thin using this method!

[John McClanahan]

Here is another way. I haven't tried this yet. Notice the saw he is using. Nothing special.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cEyAqhvEnM


John

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?73856-Cutting-2mm-%285-64-quot-%29-strips&highlight=

Here is the guy from Poland: Nissim Avrahami.

[Jeff Duncan]

So if you want things done quickly and efficiently why would you not want them cut the correct width to start with. You could go from the table saw to the project without having to sand or go to the planer?

Bill, I think you may have misunderstood that sentence. Using the previously described technique, if you have say 50 boards you want to rip onto strips, all 50 have to be the exact same width first. So if you have a pile of boards ranging from say 4" - 8" wide or more, you have to rip the entire stack to the same width first before you can start ripping strips:( Then your off-cuts would have to be sized for a second batch of parts. I skip all this extra work by just ripping against the fence. so it doesn't matter what the initial size of the boards is;)

Oh and FWIW everything I do is sanded before going out the door. Nothing goes from table saw to project without sanding. There are plenty of guys who do that quality of work and we have names for them around here, but no use in going down that path;)

JeffD

[Bill Huber]

Bill, I think you may have misunderstood that sentence. Using the previously described technique, if you have say 50 boards you want to rip onto strips, all 50 have to be the exact same width first. So if you have a pile of boards ranging from say 4" - 8" wide or more, you have to rip the entire stack to the same width first before you can start ripping strips:( Then your off-cuts would have to be sized for a second batch of parts. I skip all this extra work by just ripping against the fence. so it doesn't matter what the initial size of the boards is;)

Oh and FWIW everything I do is sanded before going out the door. Nothing goes from table saw to project without sanding. There are plenty of guys who do that quality of work and we have names for them around here, but no use in going down that path;)

JeffD

I guess it is the size of strips, I don't like to cut anything 1/8" between the fence and the blade. I guess the strips that I cut the most are edge banding (1/8") and inlay strips that are as small as 1/16".

I never have to cut the boards all to the same size, with the Rockler jig you just put the board against the bearing and cut the strip, no need to have the boards any given width. They do have to have one straight edge but that is true with any way you cut the strips.

With the glue line rip blade I go from the table saw to the project. With edge banding, I glue them on and then sand them, nothing goes out of my shop until it is sanded.

[Rod Sheridan]

Well done, yes it feels odd at first however it's safe and works very well...........Rod.