RAS needs a checkup

[John Hart]

Howdy all,
Last night while walking through a warehouse full of "stuff" with my BIL, I spotted an old Craftsman RAS. All I said was, "hey, that's cool". My BIL said, "Take it...get it out of here!" So now I have a Radial Arm Saw. But I don't want to use it until I've thoroughly given it a checkup. Any of you have a good comprehensive checklist of all the alignments and tolerances for a Sears Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Model 113.23100? I'm looking for more information than what would be found in an owners manual.

Thanks much

[Tom Hintz]

John,
I don't have any specific tolerances for that saw but do have a story on getting it aligned better than the original instructions prescribe. I used to have a similar saw and had problems until I figured out the procedure in the story at the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/squarerastble.html

[Kurt Aebi]

John,

Your saw came up with "No Kit Available" when I searched the recall site, so your's isn't part of the recall.

Old Woodworking Machines web site has PDF versions of many manuals. here's the link to your's.

http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/Craftsman/113-23100.pdf

I hope this helps and doesn't violate the T.O.S.

Kurt

[John Hart]

Thanks much guys. I think both those sources will take me in the right direction. I want to go at this cautiously since no one really knows the operational status of the machine.

Thanks again

[Charlie Plesums]

That model was made by Emerson, who later made the Ridgid line of tools for Home Depot (after Sears decided to go cheap). The model number is lower than mine, which may indicate it is an earlier machine (good).

If you have not used a RAS, the biggest issue in my mind is that the cut pulls the saw head and blade towards you... as soon as the cut starts, you have to push backwards, not keep pulling forward, to keep the saw from attacking you.

The biggest problem with RAS is keeping them aligned. The older heavier units were pretty good at holding alignment once set, but none were great at moving to an alignment (like a 45 degree cut), nor returning precisely to 90 degrees. The newer saws are lighter, and thus not as good at holding a setting. Thus mine is set to 90 degrees and is now only used as a chop saw.

If the motor runs smoothly (no bearing problems), I would try a blade. If the blade runs smoothly (no bearing problems with the load), I would just do the setup procedure in the manual, and start using it.

The motor switch tends to fail, at least on my model (I am on my third switch). The repair parts are absurdly expensive, but are still available. While I waited for my third switch to arrive, I used a $2 switch, which worked perfectly but didn't mount as nicely as the $40 replacement part.

[Curt Harms]

Hi John

I have a newer DeWalt RAS. I was using the same blades I was using on the T.S. etc. I read here about using negative hook blades. Found one and installed it. The negative hook didn't eliminate the tendency to self-feed entirely, but it certainly reduced it. A RAS works well to make dado & half lap joints, but I must be careful with a dado stack installed, the dado does like to self feed. I don't find it uncontrollable but awareness is in order.

The only time I've scared myself with a RAS is ripping a warped piece of lumber before I knew better. I was well off to the side, but a piece of wood kicked back and made a pretty good racket when it hit a T1-11 cabinet door. I'm real glad I wasn't standing there. I think RASs are worth having if you have the room, but they do have their peculiarities ;)

Curt

[Bill Fields]

John:

Charlie is correct--call Emerson and they will send you a copy of the original manual. My Crafstman RAS is about that vintage and lots of cast iron parts.

Also agree with comments about "self-feeding". Careful!

BILL FIELDS

[Richard Wolf]

John, there used to be a book around called"Tuning up your Radial Arm saw" . With the decline in popularity, it may be difficult to find. It was a good book.
Like Curt said;
Most important that you use a negitive hook blade. Most people pick up a RAS at a garage sale with no blade, pop on any blade and have a beast on their hands.

Richard

[John Hart]

Thanks everyone for all your help! I think I'm on track. I did print out that PDF of the manual and I think I'm ready to do a full inspection. I might even give it a little paint and post my progress. I've used many RAS's in the past but never owned one. This is a fine day for me.:) :) :D :rolleyes:

[John Hart]

Richard...I'll try to find the book..thanks. You wouldn't happen to know the author would you? No matter...I've got a search engine I suppose.:rolleyes:

Thanks!

[John Hart]

by any chance is this it?

http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/Upload/product_4.jpgFINE TUNING YOUR RADIAL ARM SAW, THE BIBLE FOR RADIAL ARM SAW OWNERS BY JON EAKES.


<HR>JON'S COMMENTS:

"For all you radial arm saw lovers, my "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" is back! Thanks to internet publishing technology, this out of print and sought after book is now available for purchase through a web download process right to your computer and printer! Learn all the tricks for effective use. Simply download this popular guide and print! Use 600 dpi and the photos will come out as clear as the original publication.

This guide offers a detailed look at how to get the notoriously sloppy radial arm saw to work dead square and to a cutting tolerance of 128th of an inch with a simple saw blade. Considered the bible for setting up and using radial arm saws in a precision fashion, you'll find line-up procedures and tricks that manufacturers fail to provide in owners' manuals and that flashy textbooks sidestep for fear of boring you."

JON EAKES

[Jules Dominguez]

John, I agree with the previous posts, but I"ll add a tip that's been useful to me. I have a Craftsman 10" RAS which I only use for cutoffs, and in time (not a lot of time, either) it wallows out the groove the sawblade makes in the table as it's pulled back through the workpiece. Then you start getting tearout on the bottom side of the workpiece where the blade exits the cut.

A fix for this is to route a groove about 3/4 of an inch wide in the top of the saw table along the path of the sawblade, but offcentered a little bit, and then rip a bunch of strips that will exactly fit the groove and be flush with the tabletop. I use 1/4 inch plywood for the strips, so I route the groove 1/4 inch deep. The strips form a sacrificial tabletop and each one can be used in four positions. Use it in the first position until it wallows out a little, then turn it back to front to put fresh wood in the saw cut, then flip it over and use the other side when the second groove wears.
I wouldn't advise trying to cut the groove with a dado blade on the saw, because unless the saw is set up so that the blade moves perfectly parallel to the tabletop, the groove won't be a uniform depth for the full length of the cut and the strips won't be flush with the tabletop for their full length.
This tip may be in John Eakes book, which I haven't read, but about which I'd have serious doubts about any claims for rock solid performance by a radial saw. I don't remember whether I read this tip somewhere or conjured it up myself, but it's simple and it works.

[John Hart]

I remember 20 some years ago, the woodshop where I got my start had a large industrial RAS. The shopkeepers did just as you suggest Jules. I would go in there 3 or 4 times a week and every so often, there would be a new sacrificial piece in the groove. A fine suggestion...as I probably wouldn't have remembered that if you hadn't reminded me.;)

[Richard Wolf]

John, That's the book.

Richard

[Dev Emch]

Hi John...

First word of caution. There is no such thing as a free power tool! Just tool junkies who cannot resist the temptation of so called free tools or cheap tools. I cam currently rebuilding a dewalt GE and will post the project on the internet as I get around to it. Its amazing how many parts are in the beast when you have to refurb each and every one of them! I am convinced it has a direct connection to my ATM.

To help you out, here is a tip. Contact ShopNotes magazine and try to obtain volume 9, issue 52. It is dedicated mostly to radial arm saws and has a whole picture and textual write up on tuning up what looks to be a craftsman RAS. It also has a section on building the neatest mitre angle jig for your RAS and an awsome picture of a 1930's Dewalt RAS on the back cover. This should square you away.

Try www.shopnotes.com or -800-333-5854.

Good Luck...

[Bob Luciano]

The saw you have has been recalled and qualifies for the $100 buy back I just sent 2 of them in for the money