Poly Over BLO?

[James Combs]

Similar question as Dune Crane, Is there any problem putting WOP over BLO? Freshly applied BLO vs dry? Wood is Cherry and Honey Locust.

[John Keeton]

I use WOP over BLO all the time. You will need to wait about 3 days of decent humidity for it to dry - one way or the other. Either wait on the BLO, or wait on the WOP! I suggest BLO, wait 3 days, apply shellac, wait a few hours or overnite, and then start the WOP.

I don't have experience with the locust, but I love what BLO does for cherry!

[John Terefenko]

No problem at all. That is just like using Danish oil which is BLO and poly mixed together.

[Russell Neyman]

I certainly respect Keeton's expertise, but I apply boiled linseed (friction finishing it), shellac, and wipe on poly in a single day all the time.

The BLO adds depth to the finish, shellac served as additional depth plus a bit of a build coat, and the wipe on poly provides the high sheen.

In my experience, there are countless combinations and you simply need to keep tinkering until you find a technique you like that fits your tastes and working environment.

[Prashun Patel]

The issue is how thick the BLO coat was, how long you let it dry, and how thick a poly coat you put on.

[James Combs]

I use WOP over BLO all the time. You will need to wait about 3 days of decent humidity for it to dry - one way or the other. Either wait on the BLO, or wait on the WOP! I suggest BLO, wait 3 days, apply shellac, wait a few hours or overnite, and then start the WOP.

I don't have experience with the locust, but I love what BLO does for cherry!
Thanks John K., I was thinking that I recalled you using the combo.


No problem at all. That is just like using Danish oil which is BLO and poly mixed together.
Thanks John T. appreciate the input.


I certainly respect Keeton's expertise, but I apply boiled linseed (friction finishing it), shellac, and wipe on poly in a single day all the time.
The BLO adds depth to the finish, shellac served as additional depth plus a bit of a build coat, and the wipe on poly provides the high sheen.
In my experience, there are countless combinations and you simply need to keep tinkering until you find a technique you like that fits your tastes and working environment.
Thanks Russell, some good points to ponder and try.


The issue is how thick the BLO coat was, how long you let it dry, and how thick a poly coat you put on.
Thanks Prashun, I am just putting on one coat and letting it soak for about 5 minutes then wiping off any excess. Doing it mainly for grain and color definition.

[Dan Grebinski]

Similar question as Dune Crane, Is there any problem putting WOP over BLO? Freshly applied BLO vs dry? Wood is Cherry and Honey Locust.

I've been doing that for years without a problem. Especially cherry, I like the way the BLO 'ages' the wood. I can't speak for the water based WOP as I always use the oil based. Just wipe the BLO dry with a rag so there is no surface liquid and apply the poly. No drying time needed. Make sure to put the rag in a flammables can or dispose of properly, as it will self combust.

Dan

[Bill Hensley]

For those interested in using water based top coats:

I recently did a cherry test piece to see what the reaction would be between tung oil and a top coat of water based lacquer. I applied the tung oil, wiped off the excess as usual and let it sit for 3-4 days. Sprayed the lacquer and there was no reaction, finish laid very nicely.

I also did a similar test using a solvent based sanding sealer, sanded and a top coat of WB lacquer. The first coat beaded somewhat but subsequent coats would blend/burn in. Final results were acceptable. I use Target coatings which behaves very similar to solvent based lacquer.