TS fence

[Steve Gojevic]

Hello everyone:

I have been thinking for a year about replacing the barely-adequate fence on my 1980's Craftsman flex-drive table saw. When I started looking, you could get the Delta T2 fence for pretty cheap ($150) making it a good buy. I just broke the fence (dropped it), so I have to buy a new fence. What I really want is a new TS but that's not in the budget now.


Looking at the Delta T2 prices online, the places that ACTUALLY HAVE a T2 in stock now charge a minimum of $230 (free shipping). This is getting close to the Vega PRO40 fence, which is available for $281 (free shipping). Is it worth the extra $50 for the Vega 40" ove rthe T2 30"?

Thanks
Steve

[Janis Stipins]

This isn't a direct answer to the question you asked, but: Get a VerySuperCool Tools fence. You will be very pleased.

I'm not involved with the company, other than as a satisfied customer.

-Janis

[Vince Shriver]

This isn't a direct answer to the question you asked, but: Get a VerySuperCool Tools fence. You will be very pleased.

I'm not involved with the company, other than as a satisfied customer.

-Janis

Very Super Cool Tools has a series of video about his fence. I agree with Janis - it is very super cool!

[Mark Carlson]

I have one too and agree with Janis.


This isn't a direct answer to the question you asked, but: Get a VerySuperCool Tools fence. You will be very pleased.

I'm not involved with the company, other than as a satisfied customer.

-Janis

[Stew Hagerty]

I have an '80 vitage Craftsman saw too. I put on a Vega U50 a couple of years ago and absolutely love it. The price is right, it fits perfectly, it installs very quickly and easily, it locks dead straight every time, it has a micro-adjuster feature that is FANTASTIC, and the fence itself is perfect for all manner of auxiliary fences.

http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

[John TenEyck]

I know nothing about the VerySuperCool Tools fence, but I love the Vega Pro 50 on my bolted together Unisaw - Craftsman table saws.

John

[Stew Hagerty]

I know nothing about the VerySuperCool Tools fence, but I love the Vega Pro 50 on my bolted together Unisaw - Craftsman table saws.

John

Yeah, the Vega is perfect for Craftsman saws. It just bolts right on. Super simple. And besides that, it's a great fence system.

[Dick Brown]

I had a T2 and a Vega. I'd go the extra money for the Vega in a heartbeat over the T2.

[Dave Quignon]

Hi, I have an old Craftsman that I put a 50" Biesemeyer on and it has worked like a charm. I purchased it about 3 years ago from Norther Tool for $450.00. It is a lot I know, but it turn a hobby saw into a cabinet saw and was easy to attach and set up. I just had to make the tables and drill a few holes.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I would find it hard to put any money into a flex drive saw. If you can wait, watch CL for a used Delta model 10 saw. The original "jet loc" fence can be made servicable with a little cleaning, waxing , and adjusting. Then google "home made Biesemeyer fences" and make your own.

[Matt Day]

I would suggest CL first for a better used saw, then CL for a new/used fence, then a new Vega.

[Steve Gojevic]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

My first choice would be a Sawstop contractor saw, but at $1800 (with the better fence) it probably won't happen soon.

The next choice would be a better TS on CL, but it seems everyone around here thinks their tools are made of gold! The bargains everyonme else seems to get don't happen often here.

Finally, I could get the better fence for my Craftsman. Looks like I would get the Vega. I do like the VerySuperCool Tools fence, but I would have to make a fence rail for it and I am using all my time to build cabinets before Christmas.

On most forums, the flex drive saws are looked down upon even by people who think Craftsman saws aren't too bad. I am curious why? Is it because of the flex shaft breaking? Mine has broken once in 30 years of use. It looks like any other Craftsman TS with the flex shaft replacing the belt drive.

What do you think of this CL JET saw? It looks like a good fence on it.

http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/4222332418.html

Steve

[Steve Gojevic]

Here's another CL saw, a Rockwell Model 10. Isn't this basically a Delta saw when they were owned by Rockwell?



http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/4186975721.html

Steve

[Bobby O'Neal]

I am not sure that either of those saws will be much better than what you currently have with a fence upgrade. I have a similar craftsman with the T2 on it and am happy with that setup. Full disclosure, I don't rely on my TS for dead in accuracy but the fence locks well, doesn't deflect and is easy to manuver and adjust.

[Steve Gojevic]

I am thinking of the following plan:

1) Buy a Vega fence (about $280 online) and put it on my flex-drive craftsman.
2) Use the saw to build the cabinets. I have to start building cabinets by next week so i can't wait much longer.
3) Keep an eye on CL and Ebay for a good deal on a better saw.
4) If the Flex-drive shaft breaks or I find a great deal on a better saw then I can transfer the Vega fence to that saw. Since I have the Vega fence, I don't need to find a used TS with a good fence already on it.
5) I mysteriously come across a bunch of money from somewhere and I buy a Sawstop. OK, this one is pure fantasy!


Steve

[Earl Rumans]

I'll offer another option. Get the Incra fence system, they are on sale now. http://www.incra.com/product_tsf_lsts.htm It will work on any saw, so you can take it with you when you find a better saw on CL or buy a new one. The Incra system is a fantastic precision fence setup that is very hard to beat. I have it on my Jet Deluxe Xacta saw and love it.


Earl

[Steve Gojevic]

I'll offer another option. Get the Incra fence system, they are on sale now. http://www.incra.com/product_tsf_lsts.htm It will work on any saw, so you can take it with you when you find a better saw on CL or buy a new one. The Incra system is a fantastic precision fence setup that is very hard to beat. I have it on my Jet Deluxe Xacta saw and love it.


Earl

Where are they on sale at?

Steve

[Earl McLain]

+1 on the Incra. If I recall correctly, Incremental Tools is at 10% off site-wide through the end of December. I got mine from Amazon last year, listed as used but it was just worn packaging. Didn't save a bunch of money, but with the free shipping it helped a pretty fair bit--ended up less than the Vega I was looking at for the TS-LS 32" model.

earl

[Ruhi Arslan]

+1 on the Incra.
I had mine since I had a Bosch portable TS, to PM64 to now PM66. Same exact setup, take it with you as you move up, if needed.

[Earl Rumans]

Incra is having a 10% off sale the month of December, use the code WTEN.


Earl

[Tom Ewell]

I use the Vega pro 40, like the Incra but just cant' dedicate the foot print needed for the big Incra system.
My little Incra ultralite setup can be moved around to position the fences on my table saw or router table as the need arises but for casework the Vega is fine.

[Steve Gojevic]

After searching the net for prices on the Incra 32" fence, the cheapest price I found was $349 (plus $53 shipping) at Tool Zone.

I am leaning toward purchasing this fence. The T2 was about $230, the Vega was about $280. The Incra looks like it may be worth the extra $. The extra long rails might be a little PITA in my shop when I'm not using the saw, but if it helps accuracy it's worth it.

Did any of you guys attach an outfeed table to your saw with the Incra fence attached? How did you attach it?

Steve

[Stew Hagerty]

I can't speak for the Incra TS system except that I didn't get it because I didn't have the room in the location I placed my saw. That's why I got the Vega. And for me the Vega, with its micro-adjust feature, is more than adequately accurate.

However, I do have the big Incra Router Table system and absolutely love it! On the router table I appreciate the additional level of accuracy, not to mention all of the joinery scales.

[Steve Gojevic]

I found a good deal on the T2 for $170 shipped, so this swayed me to order the T2 last Monday.
My saw has the splitter/blade guard mount that extends outthe back just under the table surface. I can either cut it off (round rod)flush with the edge of the table or I can notch the rear T2 rail. The railwould need to be notched about 3/8", which would remove the horizontalpart of the rail since its only 1/4" thick.
I don't usually use the splitter/guard, but cutting off therod would mean it could never be used.
Has anyone dealt with this issue on their Craftsman? I don'tknow if this is type of splitter is common on the Craftsman. An online searchshows a few cases mentioned and the solution was to cut the rod off.
If you did cut off the splitter/guard, what did you useinstead?

Steve

[glenn bradley]

I am thinking of the following plan:

1) Buy a Vega fence (about $280 online) and put it on my flex-drive craftsman.
2) Use the saw to build the cabinets. I have to start building cabinets by next week so i can't wait much longer.
3) Keep an eye on CL and Ebay for a good deal on a better saw.
4) If the Flex-drive shaft breaks or I find a great deal on a better saw then I can transfer the Vega fence to that saw. Since I have the Vega fence, I don't need to find a used TS with a good fence already on it.
5) I mysteriously come across a bunch of money from somewhere and I buy a Sawstop. OK, this one is pure fantasy!


Steve

Any quality fence system is going to improve your saw experience. Your plan sounds solid as the Vega goes on the C-man so easily and it can transfer just as easily to another saw when the time comes. Go for it and Merry Christmas to you!

[Curt Harms]

I found a good deal on the T2 for $170 shipped, so this swayed me to order the T2 last Monday.
My saw has the splitter/blade guard mount that extends outthe back just under the table surface. I can either cut it off (round rod)flush with the edge of the table or I can notch the rear T2 rail. The railwould need to be notched about 3/8", which would remove the horizontalpart of the rail since its only 1/4" thick.
I don't usually use the splitter/guard, but cutting off therod would mean it could never be used.
Has anyone dealt with this issue on their Craftsman? I don'tknow if this is type of splitter is common on the Craftsman. An online searchshows a few cases mentioned and the solution was to cut the rod off.
If you did cut off the splitter/guard, what did you useinstead?

Steve


One option for a splitter would be the microjig http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter-steel-pro/. A related option would be to make your own blade insert, extend the slot to the back and fasten a piece of wood or metal in the slot to serve the same purpose as the microjig splitter. A guard might be trickier. It might be worth checking into a Shark Guard http://www.thesharkguard.com/.

[Dave Cullen]

I've been holding out for a Vega because I like the micro adjust feature, but it seems the 26" Utility type that would suit me is not available. I think I'm gonna have to email Vega to find out why.

[Rick Potter]

Does that rod unscrew?

R Potter

[Bobby O'Neal]

I found a good deal on the T2 for $170 shipped, so this swayed me to order the T2 last Monday.
My saw has the splitter/blade guard mount that extends outthe back just under the table surface. I can either cut it off (round rod)flush with the edge of the table or I can notch the rear T2 rail. The railwould need to be notched about 3/8", which would remove the horizontalpart of the rail since its only 1/4" thick.
I don't usually use the splitter/guard, but cutting off therod would mean it could never be used.
Has anyone dealt with this issue on their Craftsman? I don'tknow if this is type of splitter is common on the Craftsman. An online searchshows a few cases mentioned and the solution was to cut the rod off.
If you did cut off the splitter/guard, what did you useinstead?

Steve


I did not have the issue with the blade guard/splitter (my Craftsman didn't have either) but I did have to notch the rear rail for the miter slots. It was soft and easy to cut so it wasn't a problem. If you have to notch it, it's no sweat. I think you'll be very happy with you T2. Here was my final product.

[Troy Turner]

Steve - I like the sounds of your plan. I have a Vega on my 80's Craftsman belt drive. Nothing wrong with the t/s, other than the fence. Upgraded to the incra miter gauge and some PALs for alignment. For what I do (hobbyist), it fits my needs. Would I like something better later down the line, possibly. And good thing is, when I do buy something else (even brand new), I'm putting my Vega on it. You don't think about the micro adjust until you go to tap the fence, and remember, I have a micro adjust :D

[Keith Hankins]

This isn't a direct answer to the question you asked, but: Get a VerySuperCool Tools fence. You will be very pleased.

I'm not involved with the company, other than as a satisfied customer.

-Janis

don't have one yet, but on the verge (next bonus) love the concept. I'm thinking of getting the sawstop and his fence.

[Stew Hagerty]

I've been holding out for a Vega because I like the micro adjust feature, but it seems the 26" Utility type that would suit me is not available. I think I'm gonna have to email Vega to find out why.

Just give them a call. They are extremely helpful.

[glenn bradley]

I found a good deal on the T2 for $170 shipped, so this swayed me to order the T2 last Monday.
Good plan. The Incra is a sweet system but, it is very different in design and expanded purpose than a standard fence. The Incra is cool but, if you are after a good workable fence, the T2 should serve you well.


My saw has the splitter/blade guard mount that extends outthe back just under the table surface. I can either cut it off (round rod)flush with the edge of the table or I can notch the rear T2 rail. The railwould need to be notched about 3/8", which would remove the horizontalpart of the rail since its only 1/4" thick.
The rear rail is not critical to the fence's function. It more provides an anchor point for extension wings. No worries.


I don't usually use the splitter/guard, but cutting off therod would mean it could never be used.
Fingers in my ears shouting "LA-LA-LA-LA-LA" . . . I didn't hear that; always use your splitter and/or guard WHENEVER possible. If your guard stinks, make that your next assignment ;-)


Has anyone dealt with this issue on their Craftsman? I don'tknow if this is type of splitter is common on the Craftsman. An online search shows a few cases mentioned and the solution was to cut the rod off.
If you did cut off the splitter/guard, what did you use instead?
It is not that rare. The very popular Craftsman/Orion Zipcode saws used this method IIRC. However, on my early C-man and on my Zipcode saw I went with the MJ-Splitter (http://microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/) and an overarm guard since it allowed me to switch ZCI's more easily.

[Steve Gojevic]

I think I am going to notch the rear rail of the T2 since I can keep the splitter/guard.

I have another question.

Should I mount the T2 full to the right and get a lot more rip capacity to the right, which means no left side rip capacity?

My current craftsman fence doesn't go to the left of the blade, so I never ripped with a fence on the left. How useful is the capacity to set the rip fence to the left? The only thing I can think of would be a bevel cut where the blade tilts toward the fence (left side fence) instead of away from the fence (right side fence). This way if you are cutting a bevel on a narrow piece, the piece would be trapped between the blade, fence and table. When I cut a bevel on a narrow piece now, the piece tends to lift up and since its narrow and near the blade, it seems dangerous to try and hold it down with anything.

Thanks
Steve

[Rick Potter]

I believe your Craftsman saw is left tilt. If so, there is no reason to have the fence on the left side that I know of.

Rick Potter

PS: Never trap the wood as you explained. It will get you sooner or later.

[Steve Gojevic]

Ok, here it is, the saw with the T2 fence installed:

278151

I used one existing hole in the saw for each of the rails to start the locating of the rails. The holes turned out be the exact height I needed. It was very easy to drill through the cast iron. The only consequence of using the existing holes was that the tape strip needs to be relocated about 1" to the left (which gives me about an inch more capacity to the right). I was thinking about putting it fully to the right, but it would have been too long and the saw might have been tippy.

I cut a notch in the rear rail for the splitter/guard rod. The aluminum hub (on the rod) that the splitter attaches to was adjustable, so I slid it back about 3/8" to avoid having to modify it to clear the rear rail.

It took about 1 1/2 hours to install, and this includes readjusting the alignment of the cast iron wings because they were off a little.

Tonight I will relocated the On/Off switch to the left side where I can hit it with my leg if necessary to turn it off. I never did like having it on the right side where I had to put my head in line with the blade to reach it.

Steve

[Rick Potter]

Looking good Steve, now add a set of PALS, and you have yourself a very nice saw. Then you can dump the legs and put it on a cabinet for storage. Lots of great ideas on line.

Rick Potter