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Andrew Joiner
12-02-2013, 10:47 PM
If you were building a rollout like this 24" wide, what slides would you use? It looks like it has undermount slides only with no top slide in the way. The cans alone could easily weigh 100lbs. Could one pair of heavy duty slides support it all?
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRib_LWP-aIuPocrT7dESvs197GL8Ns-8x6IZpWeGi7Z9wkop1Z
Would a 12'' wide unit similar to this with 3 bins instead of 4 be OK with one pair of side mounted 100lb slides? That would fit 60 lbs of cans.

Jamie Buxton
12-02-2013, 11:20 PM
Why make it a single-piece roll-out? As you've calculated, the slides will be stressed, and it will be a bear to open. Also, it will be a pain to get into the bottom rear stuff. You'll need to get down on your knees and reach in sideways. Instead, make it several conventional drawers. The slides get a smaller load. The contents of each drawer will be lighter, so the drawer opens more easily. And you easily reach the stuff that is in the rear of the bottom drawer.

Dave Zellers
12-02-2013, 11:50 PM
For me, this is a case where function has to rule. If you say the product weight would be 100 lbs, then my slides would need to handle twice that.

I built a huge trash/recycling full extension drawer and used these. http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=50505&cat=3,43614,43616,50505

Maybe you can scale down to the 200 lb ones but I wouldn't go below that.

For stuff like this, I just don't think anyone should be bothered by the horrors of actually seeing the hardware.

BTW- I just last week got to see a drawer I used these on two years after construction and it is exactly as I left it. The reveal on the inset drawer face hasn't changed a bit. This drawer is 2 feet wide, 33 inches deep and 30 inches high. It holds a LOT of glass, waiting for a dump run. These are serious slides. I didn't do it, but you could apply a strip along the top edge that would hide the view from above if that mattered.

Maybe others will know of equally strong under mounts that will make all this moot. Just don't under engineer this.

Bill Neely
12-03-2013, 4:13 AM
Accuride and KV make an undermount pantry slide that would probably work for you. The Accuride is rated at 155lb, I intend to use the Accurides for two pullouts I'm going to make this winter.

Richard McComas
12-03-2013, 5:35 AM
This is probably a bit unorthodox and over kill but I built a pull out pantry using a pair of 100 lb rated full extension on each drawer/shelf. Tied the whole mess together and put fronts on it. Still works like new and I don't worry about it being overloaded. Best I can remember it was 18 to 20 inch wide.


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/pantry4.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/pantry6.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/rmccomas0043/pantry3.jpg

Andrew Joiner
12-03-2013, 11:27 AM
Why make it a single-piece roll-out? As you've calculated, the slides will be stressed, and it will be a bear to open. Also, it will be a pain to get into the bottom rear stuff. You'll need to get down on your knees and reach in sideways. Instead, make it several conventional drawers. The slides get a smaller load. The contents of each drawer will be lighter, so the drawer opens more easily. And you easily reach the stuff that is in the rear of the bottom drawer.

Makes sense to me Jamie. However she wants to see the sides of cans not the tops. I think the single-piece roll-out would be less labor and materials than 3 or 4 drawers.

Thanks for all the ideas.

glenn bradley
12-03-2013, 12:21 PM
Sweet build Rich Mc.

I found that single (or large) units full of foodstuffs were awkward to move. Basic physics; a 110lb person will need to put out considerable effort to open a 60lb "drawer" no matter how well it slides. Awkward operation leads to personal resistance to use and the convenience factor is lost. I would do 2 or three pullouts with low sides. False front them to match the other cabinetry.

276239 . 276238

One of the tricks on this is setting the height between levels. You want to be able to read cans from the side so they shouldn't be much more than 2 cans wide and you want them tall enough for tall cans but, don't want to lose too much vertical height between level. My basic rule for sizing shelves or pullout trays is to stack the contents on the counter and fiddle with them until I like the arrangement. Then build to suit.