writing/marking bowls

[alex grams]

Odd question, but I (like most turners) write my name, date, and type of wood on the bottom of pieces I am finishing. The problem I am having lately is that with wipe on finishes (shellac/waterlox/varnish/poly) will dissolve the ink and mess up the writing. Anyone have any good suggestions on pen types for this? I've tried the felt tip sharpie (permanent ink) and other pens, but get the same effect, just to varying degrees.

Thanks in advance.

[Fred Belknap]

I have used all those you mentioned and have had pretty good luck, just use a patting motion over the signature. I do most of mine now with a burner with a fine tip.

[byron constantine]

Odd question, but I (like most turners) write my name, date, and type of wood on the bottom of pieces I am finishing. The problem I am having lately is that with wipe on finishes (shellac/waterlox/varnish/poly) will dissolve the ink and mess up the writing. Anyone have any good suggestions on pen types for this? I've tried the felt tip sharpie (permanent ink) and other pens, but get the same effect, just to varying degrees.

Thanks in advance.

I use ZIG pens you can get them on line. Never had a problem dissolving and you can get them with a fine tip. Byron

[Roger Chandler]

Make sure you let the ink dry for a while before applying the finish...........mine usually turn out fine after drying. I have also put the shellac on and then signed the bottom........let it dry, then apply the final finish [WOP or Wood turners Finish [WTF] ] and it has worked well. I used the fine tip sharpie markers.

More and more I am getting better with burning my name, etc with a fine tip pyro pen.........I have learned to ease up on the pressure and am getting better results.

[Paul Williams]

I have found that DNA in shellac dissolves ink from some markers while WOP dissolves others. One or the other always works for me. I start with shellac, then the ink, then either another coat of shellac or a coat of poly. On lighter colored wood I burn in my signature, but it doesn't show well on walnut and other dark wood unless I fill it with paint or colored wax, so I just use ink on dark wood.

[John Keeton]

I have tried several methods using the archival pens, and now sign mine on the bare wood, spray it with a couple light coats of shellac, and lightly steel wool it prior to going forward with the finishing process. If I intend to use lacquer as a finish, then I will seal the signature with lacquer vs. shellac. Since switching to this method, I have not had any problems. On dark woods, I use a gold, copper or silver pen depending on the style of turning. On functional bowls, I use only an oil finish and it applies over the signature with no bleeding or smearing.

[Kelvin Burton]

Now that I have a wood burner I pyro all of mine. Haven't found a finish that will blur that - yet! :D

[John Thorson]

An 'archival quality pigment-based permanent ink pen' (art store) holds up to most finishes. They don't cost that much more than a decent dye-based ink pen.

[Mike Cruz]

Sorry, I don't know of any pens that will not "smear" or erase from finishes. That is why I use a burner.

[John King]

Pigma archival black ink pens are the only way to go. Come in a many tip sizes. Have used them under a variety of finishes. No runs. No bleeding. No smudges. Get them in the art department of Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc. - John

[John Keeton]

Pigma archival black ink pens are the only way to go...That is what I use, and I think you will have a more consistent result if the signature is applied to bare wood, then finish applied.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

After trying a pyro pen and a couple of other means of putting my name on pieces, I've been engraving the signature for a couple of years now - I just use a Dremel engraving tool with an old drill shank well sharpened to a very fine point. Takes a little practice to get it down, but that's what the pieces that didn't make it are for. On very dark woods a little liming wax applied after the finish and rubbed off helps give a slight pop. I tend to keep the signature very small and understated - a habit I developed after seeing several pieces from three different world-class turners whose work I admire. One had a signature so small and well hidden you practically needed a magnifier to find it.

[Kevin Stanbary]

I use Sharpie extra fine point oil based paint markers. Bought a pile of them on clearance when the local office supply store closed. Have black for light woods and white for dark woods.

[John King]

That is what I use, and I think you will have a more consistent result if the signature is applied to bare wood, then finish applied.

Ditto the bare wood comment. Once the wood is sealed Pigma will not work. - John

[bob svoboda]

+1 on Jeffrey's method.