Rebuilding a Circa 1946 Delta 12 Inch Lathe

[Ted Reischl]

Hello to everyone!

I am very new to this forum, so I hope to have this post in the right place, if not please move it.

Just started a project to rebuild a 1946 Delta 12 inch lathe. I actually purchased two lathes, one of them a bit newer (cannot tell exact date because some of the serial number is missing)
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It seems the forum limits the number of attached pics to 8, so I will post a few more pics in the next post.

A bit about me: I have an extensive background in software and machine design. Within the last 8 years I have built two 3 axis cnc routers. I am what might be called a "blended" woodworker. I will use whatever tool works best for a particular task. If a corner radius plane fits the bill, I use it rather than set up the router table. If I am using the 3 axis to carve a project, I will not hesitate to use a carving tool to enhance or add a detail if it is easier to do it that way.

I want to thank this forum. After reading here, it led me to all the documentation available for rebuilding these lathes.

My goal is to build one complete 1946 lathe using the cast iron legs (the other lathe has the stamped steel legs). I would like to use the counter shaft on that lathe.

In addition to the parts in the pic, I have two original top boards and one original lower board.

(First post continues in the next post so I can add more pics)

[Ted Reischl]

So here are some more pics of the project:

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So far, I have cleaned up both the beds.

I removed the spindle from one of the lathes to take it to a machine shop. Someone had tried to remove the spindle the wrong way and peened over the first thread on it. The local machine shop repaired it for me at no charge! I think the guy loved the idea of someone rebuilding an old lathe. The machine shop itself is a throwback to yesteryear, full of vintage machinery that runs very well. I also took one of the parts to a small local paint store to have them match the color and got a quart of oil based paint. I hate it when someone paints a machine with latex, instant rust.

Today, I am going to continue disassembling things so I can prepare them for painting.

One set of bearings is very smooth, the other set, not so much.

If anyone is wondering what is with the sawdust on the bed casting. . .I use it to soak up any oily residue and also to scrub the casting clean after I have worked on it.

Oh, not shown in the pics is a set of cast iron legs, a set of steel legs, two original top boards and one original bottom board.

As this project progresses, I am going to need to find a countershaft and some of the small pieces that go with it, collars, fiber washers, etc.

Hope everyone is enjoying this post!

Cost: I bought one of the lathes for $175 and the other for $250. When I am done, I should have one really complete lathe and one not so much. I am missing one motor.

[Roy Turbett]

I'm a fan of old woodworking machines having rebuilt four Powermatic 90's. You might want to check vintagemachinery.org for additional information on your lathe including the owners manual. Also, OWWM.org is a forum for guys who like to rebuild old woodworking machines and you may be able to find some threads on rebuilds other guys have done. Good luck and keep the photos coming.

[Ted Reischl]

Roy, thanks for the references. I stumbled across at least one of them and have the PDF on my desktop. Did not realize that OWWM had threads, going to go look those up shortly.

Before I started this thread, I had managed to get both beds cleaned up and one of the headstocks.

Today, I masked off one of the beds and the headstock (I completely disassembled the headstock). I painted both of them with a very good grade of oil based paint.

I am going to need to find one set of bearings as the one headstock is very rough running.

Will get some pics of the painting posted tomorrow.

[Stephen Cherry]

I have on of those lathes, mine was used as a "school lathe". It's a pretty nice lathe for not a lot of money. Mine has been waiting for me to get a few extra bucks so I could get it a vfd.

[David Wong]

I looked over the owners manual on owwm.org, and it cautioned about removing the bearings due to the use of shims for preloading. Did you run into any issues with the shims, and will you replace the shims with your new bearings?

[Mike Heidrick]

A nice small lathe VFD is the WJ200 from Hitachi that is 110V 1ph in and up to 5amp 1hp 220V 3 phase out. I am running one on my Atlas lathe.

[Mike Berrevoets]

I have a very similar looking lathe but it says "delta Milwaukee" on the badge so I don't know if it is a little older or a little newer. I bought mine for 400 bucks with a bunch of accessories but no stand. It even had something for turning steel parts. It was bought from one of my friends grandfathers when he was selling off all his tools to move into a retirement home. I don't think I got a good deal but I'm happy to hang on to it and use it just because of where it came from and who used it.

The only issue with mine is the motor. I think it is 1/2 horsepower and it is about the size of a modern day 3 hp motor on my cyclone. I'm going to have to check out the VFD motor recommendation.

mike

[Ted Reischl]

I looked over the owners manual on owwm.org, and it cautioned about removing the bearings due to the use of shims for preloading. Did you run into any issues with the shims, and will you replace the shims with your new bearings?

Thankfully I read the instructions about disassembling the headstock and the shim warning. I had no problems with the shims (there are 3 of them) and have made sure to put them in a safe place.

As to replacing them, this machine will need new bearings. So once I start installing the bearings, I will see how the preload feels and if necessary remove/add shims. To replace the bearings, the shims have to come out.

[Ted Reischl]

I have a very similar looking lathe but it says "delta Milwaukee" on the badge so I don't know if it is a little older or a little newer. I bought mine for 400 bucks with a bunch of accessories but no stand. It even had something for turning steel parts. It was bought from one of my friends grandfathers when he was selling off all his tools to move into a retirement home. I don't think I got a good deal but I'm happy to hang on to it and use it just because of where it came from and who used it.

The only issue with mine is the motor. I think it is 1/2 horsepower and it is about the size of a modern day 3 hp motor on my cyclone. I'm going to have to check out the VFD motor recommendation.

mike

From the information you provided it sounds like you actually got a really good deal at $400. The cross slide for turning steel parts usually comes with a machine that has the counter shaft assembly so you can get 16 speeds, the lowest being 340RPM.

I know what you mean about the motor, the one I got is a Master rated at 1 HP and is a total beast. I estimate it weighs about 50 lbs!

If someday, you decide you do not need that cross slide. . . I would be very interested in obtaining it.

[HANK METZ]

...“I also took one of the parts to a small local paint store to have them match the color and got a quart of oil based paint. I hate it when someone paints a machine with latex, instant rust.”...


You may want to rethink your paint conclusions. Like any other product, advances have been made in the finishes industry too. Oil formulations, although very durable, are being replaced by the newer generation of waterborne (not latex) paints that are clearly suitable for your project. I have a custom color made for my DeWalt saw restorations that closely matches the original “Teal” used back in the ‘60’s that is easy to thin/ spray, readily dries overnight (oils can take 30 days or more to fully polymerize), and has a surface toughness (called “hiding” ability) more than adequate for the project. I do however, where possible, use a solvent- based primer such as Rustoleum to get maximum adhesion and it acts as moisture barrier as well.

[Ted Reischl]

The paint is dry.

Yesterday I painted the ways and the headstock, here are some pics:

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I made sure to mask off the faces where the bearing retainers mount. I am pretty sure adding paint to these surfaces would change the preload via the shims. Maybe not, but it seemed like a good idea.

Very pleased with the paint. It is Benjamin Moore Super Spec HD. The local paint guy mixed it up to match the Delta gray.

Today, my plan is to disassemble the tailstocks and maybe the banjos. I don't know if I mentioned this or not, but I actually have two of these lathes.

[Stephen Cherry]

A nice small lathe VFD is the WJ200 from Hitachi that is 110V 1ph in and up to 5amp 1hp 220V 3 phase out. I am running one on my Atlas lathe.

I've seen those on the internet and they look like some pretty nice drives to me. One thing that I like is that they have complete documentation, which you can't really say for some of the low dollar drives.

[Ted Reischl]

...“I also took one of the parts to a small local paint store to have them match the color and got a quart of oil based paint. I hate it when someone paints a machine with latex, instant rust.”...


You may want to rethink your paint conclusions. Like any other product, advances have been made in the finishes industry too. Oil formulations, although very durable, are being replaced by the newer generation of waterborne (not latex) paints that are clearly suitable for your project. I have a custom color made for my DeWalt saw restorations that closely matches the original “Teal” used back in the ‘60’s that is easy to thin/ spray, readily dries overnight (oils can take 30 days or more to fully polymerize), and has a surface toughness (called “hiding” ability) more than adequate for the project. I do however, where possible, use a solvent- based primer such as Rustoleum to get maximum adhesion and it acts as moisture barrier as well.

Thanks for the info, Hank. I had been wondering about those waterborne finishes. The latex's I was referring to are the ones commonly used to paint walls, trim, etc.

I am curious, do you have any brands you recommend? I have done some outdoor furniture (sprayed with thinned latex) that took FOREVER to really dry. For instance, a month after painting, if I left something on it, it would feel slightly sticky when picked up.

The Benjamin Moore stuff he made up for me seems to be fairly dry now, but I understand what you are saying about waiting for full polymerization. Should be ok as this lathe is in my basement (heated, well, never gets below 60 down there, and is dry).

[Ted Reischl]

Yesterday I took one of the tailstocks apart, it went very smoothly. Also one of the banjoes. The second banjo though? Hoo boy, there is a set screw (has a common slot head) that will not come out. I have been soaking it in some stuff that is supposed to penetrate. See if waiting over night has done any good. If not, I may have to drill it out. Just hate that.

Got one of the pulley covers, one banjo and one tailstock painted.

It is starting to look good.

[HANK METZ]

Ted, I’ve been using Richards “Signature” series, 100% acrylic int/ ext semi gloss enamel- the accent base tinted to my color choice. You have to be really careful and minimal when thinning, if you overdo it you effectively destroy the balance of carriers, pigments, and driers. I spray with an El cheapo H.F. HVLP air gun, run at about 45 P.S.I., works incredibly well for me and the gun is now several years old and has been torn completely down and cleaned up several times, a really good value for about $20.00. Like I mentioned earlier, using an inexpensive solvent based primer also helps a lot too.

[Ted Reischl]

Ted, I’ve been using Richards “Signature” series, 100% acrylic int/ ext semi gloss enamel- the accent base tinted to my color choice. You have to be really careful and minimal when thinning, if you overdo it you effectively destroy the balance of carriers, pigments, and driers. I spray with an El cheapo H.F. HVLP air gun, run at about 45 P.S.I., works incredibly well for me and the gun is now several years old and has been torn completely down and cleaned up several times, a really good value for about $20.00. Like I mentioned earlier, using an inexpensive solvent based primer also helps a lot too.

Hank, thanks for that info, I will make a note of it. I cannot do any spraying now, it will be freezing for the next several months and I do not have a spray booth in my shop. I need to enter my location so you folks know where I am at!

How I envy you guys who can pretty much spray all year round. We will be moving to NC probably within the next year, so this problem will cure itself somewhat.

[Ted Reischl]

Definitely making headway on this project.

First, some pics, everyone likes pics, including me.

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Tomorrow I am going to work on the welded steel leg set and hopefully the other headstock. If things go right, I may get to working on the countershaft bearing mounts.

When this is all done, I will have two lathes, one with a set of cast iron legs, the other with the steel legs. I have decided to put the one with steel legs up for sale when it is finished. Right now, I need a set of bearings. Some of the things the steel one is missing:

Wrenches
Motor
Faceplate
Live center
Counter shaft (that is not exactly "missing" since many of these shipped with no countershaft)

What I might be really interested in doing is trading with someone who has an outboard tool rest, and/or the cross slide attachment.

[Don Bunce]

Good to see a nice old machine being restored... As for bearings, try McMaster Carr, or Motion Industries.

BTW, there is a cross slide on Ebay right now...

[Jim Sebring]

Try "Kroil" on that stubborn set screw. It stinks to high heaven (to me), but it usually gets stuff loose.

[Ted Reischl]

Thanks Don,

It seems that all the guys doing restoration work over on OWWM.org order their bearings from a place in Addison, IL, Accurite?

I saw that cross slide on Ebay! I am keeping an eye on it. . . .looks like it needs some serious clean up after living in a barn.

[charlie knighton]

i am enjoying this thread, while i have nothing to add

[george wilson]

I had one of those lovely old machines for many years. For some reason I traded it off. Had no where to use it for some time. I wish I still had it. Now I have a 1960's Oliver with the mechanically variable speed headstock. Minimum speed is 500 RPM,too fast for large diameter jobs.

[Ted Reischl]

Hello George,

I am going to investigate getting mine below the 340 RPM using the counter shaft. Have to do some figuring with what step pulleys are available.

Won't be doing any really large stuff for a while since I am just past the beginners stage, or maybe not! I need to get a feel for this lathe and what it can actually handle when turning outboard. Heck, I need to get a feel for what I can handle!

I did get one of the lathes partially assembled. Here are a couple of pics:

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I hung the motor but am not real happy with using modern nuts and bolts, too shiny! The motor is an old Master out of Dayton, OH. Weighs a freekin ton!

When I first started putting the boards on, I could not get the set of holes on one end to line up. What I finally did was loosen everything up, then I could get all the bolts to go in the holes. Of course, I forgot to put the lathe bed bolts in, so I got to do it all over again. That is how one becomes an expert at assembling things!

Edit: The headstock is not bolted down yet, still trying to decide whether to use this one, or the other one. I will know after I disassemble the second one.

Also got a pair of bearings on order with Accurate. The lady there is a real gem! I had my info all ready, told her what I was doing, and she just hit all the nails right on the head. What a pleasure to deal with someone like that! I think she liked being told that she is famous on the internet.

[Kim Gibbens]

On owwm there is a sticky in the woodworking machinery forum for ordering bearings from Accurate Bearing.
Thanks for the write up and pictures.

[Ted Reischl]

Spent most of the morning tracking down some parts.

3/4 dia shaft for the countershaft.
Stop collars.
Belts.
Ordered the 4 step pulleys from McMaster Carr, dug all over the place but no go.

Here is what it looks like now:

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Once I have the pulleys, I will cut the shaft to a suitable length and start lining things up.

The bearing assemblies for the countershaft are really interesting.