flat versus hollow ground skews

[Bob Glenn]

I spent some time searching, but didn't find anything. I have both a square and oval skew. I mostly turn windsor chair legs in hard maple. My oval skew had a flat ground bevel and I've had no trouble with it on beads and smoothing shallow coves. However, I have been researching skew sharpening and decided to sharpen it on my Tormek. I replicated the gentle radiuus and ground a 30 degree hollow ground bevel on the skew, then honed and stropped it.

I took it to the lathe and immediately ruined a leg that I was working on, when I went to turn the bead. What I think has happened is I am missing that flat bevel to ride on when I begin the cut. I've been playing around with it a bit, and it seems the only way I can get into the cut is to angle the cutting edge almost perpendicular to the leg I am turning.

Any advise? I'd really like to keep the hollow grind as it is easier to sharpen. When I had the flat bevel, I had to sharpen on the flat side of a grinding wheel with uneven results, plus a lot of honing to touch up.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I sharpen my skews on a belt sander so that I can get a flat bevel. I've just found it easier to work with. I still use a grinder for my gouges. I'm a rank beginner, though, so don't take this as expert guidance.

[Thom Sturgill]

I've not used an oval skew, but i wonder if there is not something about that form factor that *needs* the larger bevel. I use a wide flat skew with a rounded heel (ala Alan Lacer) and do hollow grind.

[Bill Hensley]

Seems to me that a hollow grind skew would create an "on/off" situation. You have no edge/bevel to allow you to sneak into a planing cut. Flat or slightly convex would be more forgiving.

I've seen a Alan Lacer sharpening video either on his site or Youtube.

The large oval skew I have is collecting dust, replaced it with a big D-Way skew. It is very forgiving and a skew confidence builder.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I would believe you have change the cutting angles and with some practice you will adjust to the difference. Some turner have similar problems when changing the bevel angles on a bowl gouge. All my skew are hollow ground on CBN wheels.i only rub about a sixteenth of an inch bevel behind the cut. I

[Michelle Rich]

if it ain't broke don't fix it. :-) why change, when you are working well?

[Thom Sturgill]

if it ain't broke don't fix it. :-) why change, when you are working well?

Different definitions of 'broken'. Too hard for the OP to sharpen flat is broken, thus desire for easier sharpening. But easier sharpening technique changes dynamic of the blade so also broken....

Solution - either learn to use the skew sharpened with a hollow grind and small honing bevel or get some new sharpening equipment such as a belt sander or WorkSharp that will create a flat grind.

[John Teichert]

Bob, I find my hollow ground oval skew, "Twitchyer" than my flat hollow ground rectangular skew of about the same size 1 1/4 inch. I have a flat ground rectangular 3/4 " skew, that was easier to use because of the shorter flat ground bevel. When hollow ground, you have a 1/16 inch working bevel on smaller work so it is harder to "ride", especially with a larger skew on smaller work. Eddie Castellan (Capt. Eddie on YouTube), puts a slight convex curve on his skew and recommends it because it is less prone to catch, and simply because it is easier to control bevel presentation. Same for a flat grind bevel that is honed with a micro bevel. You have to come slightly up on the cut to find the cutting edge.

What was the bevel angle prior to hollow grinding? Going from 40 to a 30 degree bevel can be exhilarating to say the least. While the 30 degree bevel can give finer detail, it can cause a good deal of angst, as did my 25 degree bevel. I backed off to a 40 degree bevel for a while to figure out the skew, and can now use my skews with much sharper angles with more confidence. Still for cutting beads, I either practice up for my low angle skews, or grab my 3/8 inch beading and parting tool, with the higher angle.

If you have made a radical change in bevel angle, then I can only urge you to bring out the practice pieces to retrain your muscle memory, to refind the cutting bevel that your previously knew. I also find that using my oval skew requires a different state of mind to be relaxed enough to control the tool. I tend to cut lower on the skew, as well to keep it from torquing than I do with my "flat" skews. Same with my low angle skews.

I love the skew, but it drives me crazy when I'm in the wrong state of mind, or don't do a practice run when I haven't had it it my hands for a while.

[Bob Glenn]

Thanks for all the input. As far as "broken", I was at a point that the skew needed to be reground, and I've had a hard time in past keeping both bevel even. Thus my Tormek solution, which, BTW, gave me a great result. I hadn't thought about the belt sander, which I may give a try. I had a 3/4 inch square skew that I don't use much, I may just give it another try. To answer your bevel angle question, yes, I decreased the angle somewhat to get to 30 degrees. I don't know what I started with, I just remember removing steel from the heel of the bevel on the Tormek. On the positive side, I can use the messed up chair leg to practice, then turn it into a chair leg stretcher. Thanks Bob

[John C Lawson]

...I've had a hard time in past keeping both bevel even. ...
I solved that annoyance by grinding my "skew" straight across with only one bevel. I know that technically makes it a bedan, but I use it like a skew, with the bevel down. I also have a bedan that I use like a bedan.

[paul burk]

I learned how to sharpen a skew on a stone,just a carborundum oil stone the larger the better.You have to feel the bevel and hold the chisel perpendicular to the stone while holding the bevel.That way the bevel stays flat and you can get razor sharp results.Use any type of oil,I like power steering oil or even brake fluid.You then use the coarse side of the stone until you have created a bevel.I push down on the blade with one hand and hold the handle out away from me at the correct height to get the desired bevel.Then push the tool away and pull it back.When you feel resistance, you are cutting a bevel.It may take a while to finish, but maintaining it is easy.You may want to flatten your stone periodically.