Grabby turning saw blade

[lowell holmes]

I bought the Gramercy 12" bow saw parts and made a saw. I bought the 3 blade package. I'm using the 10tpi blade to cut cloud lifts on the rockers of a chair I'm building. The saw is grabby to the point that I would stone the sides of the teeth if it were a dovetail or carcass saw.

What experience do you have with this issue and do you have suggestions?

OBTW, I love the saw and I'm not denigrating the saw.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Are you setting for a push or pull cut? I kind of go back and forth between the two - sometimes one works better than the other with certain types of workholding. I tend to prefer a push cut if I can get away with it, but it tends to require more tension on the saw and a lighter touch.

I've only used the 10 tpi blade once - I found it a little too coarse for most of what I was working with, I've gone with the 16tpi for most tasks. Like a coping saw, the bowsaw blades are a little odd to get used to, but almost more so because of the length. The set throws you off, but you kind of need it to be able to make the turns. Whenever I can, I try and pitch the saw closer to the work (lower the cutting angle, so your at an acute angle to the stock rather than perpendicular)

As much as I like using my bowsaw, for something like cloud lifts, if it's what I'm imagining, I'd probably make square cuts with a conventional saws, and then round the transitions with paring cuts across the grain (backing the work well to prevent blow-out) using gouges.

[harry strasil]

I'm not familiar with the blade you are using, but normally there needs to be more set in a turning saw blade to fascilitate making rounded cuts, and wax on the blade will help, and wet wood cuts much different than dry wood. Oh, and I make my own webs (blades), but like I said I have no experience with the Gramercy blades.

I just checked out the Gramercy blades, what species of wood are you sawing and how thick, are you pushing or pulling the saw, if you normally push your saws and you are pulling this one, it will work all together different. Are you using a full stroke or a shortened stroke, and with a bow saw there is a tendency to let the weight of the upper part of the saw droop or move out of line, which will bind the saw blade. If this is your first attempt at using a bow saw to cut a circular kerf, it might be advisable to do some practice cuts, till you get used to how it cuts.

Oh, and make sure that the blade is straight (inline with the other end), and there is enough tension on the blade to keep the handles from twisting out of line even a little bit.

[harry strasil]

Even tho I do mostly hand tool woodworking, I still have trouble accuracely sawing curves with a bowsaw, I have much better luck using a frame saw, where the blade is in the center.
Although the picture is of a frame RIP SAW, I do have narrow blades I can use with it. The weight is equal on both sides so its easier to control.

[Chris Griggs]

Use the next finer blade. I don't recall exactly why, but I remember not liking the coarsest of the 3 blades too. I think its a little too coarse for most turning saw scroll type work. The middle one cuts quickly and smoothly....I've used it many times with success in 3/4-4/4 hardwood. Just use the next finer blade; you'll be much happier.

[lowell holmes]

Thanks guys,

I was cutting on the push stroke and my attention was primarily making sure I was staying square with the cut.

I will try the next finer blade.

Harry,
It occurs to me that I may have to make a frame saw, That's great idea.
Thanks for responding.

[Adam Petersen]

I found the same issues with my coarse blade out of the three pack. The only one I really use is the middle blade of the three.

[george wilson]

It isn't the set that is grabby. It's the angle of the fronts of the teeth that are likely causing the grab,like the acutely aggressive teeth of a razor saw. You need to file the fronts of the teeth to a 90º or a negative angle,as is more usual on saws. This is speculation on my part,but check the teeth to see if this might be the case. I can't see the set causing grab. But,I haven't used their blades.

I made some authentic 18th. C. turning saw blades for the cabinet shop while I was tool maker(another product they will never get again from my successor!) The original blade was quite thick on the cutting edge,but radically thinner at the back. No set was needed,so tapered were these blades. Also,they were about 1/4" wide at the front end,and 3/8" wide towards the rear end. I freehand ground the front to back taper of the blades. I used .040" thick spring steel,the thickest I had on hand. I could have well used 1/16" steel,but .040 was what I had on hand. I ground the blades to 1/32" thick on their back edges. This taper grinding was a bit tricky due to the narrowness of these blades. The teeth were cut from a wider piece of spring steel,then chomped narrow on the sheet metal shear.I did not especially enjoy making these,but they got made and delivered. They worked fine.

[Winton Applegate]

Wax
(the blade)

[Randy Karst]

+1 with Winton. I mainly use the middle blade of the set and find a little Bee's wax helps the cutting action. Also as already pointed out, proper tension, long stroke and ease into the turn, you may be trying to force it - "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."

[lowell holmes]

I do most of what has been mentioned. I waxed the blade, and use long strokes.

I've put the middle blade on the saw and that made a difference. It still is a bit grabby, but nothing I can't live with.

I almost didn't post this, thinking maybe there would be no interest, but I see there is. I appreciate all who responded.