A little rust on top of Delta Unisaw X5 and help with saw blade choice. New toy

[Jerrod McCrary]

I recently pulled the trigger and made a trade and got a 5HP X5 Delta Unisaw. The top is a little rusted and was interested in what would be a good choice for a rip blade for it. Found some dewalts blade priced right on amazon but I really dont understand all the different terminology about a saw blade yet. I will probably mainly use the table saw for ripping and a 12 sliding miter saw for cross cuts. Could anyone recommend decent blades for rookie for both. I have read about the WoodWorker II but little more than i want to spend. Also, any thoughts on the rust on the top. Thanks275331

[Jason King]

There's a myriad of different ways to get rid of rust on a top. Without disassembling it, I'd recommend a product called "evaporust" Typically you would immerse the object in the solution, but in this case, you could cover the top with paper towels and soak the paper towels with evaporust. Cover the wet paper towels with saran wrap to avoid evaporation, and after a couple hours you can take it off. From there a scotchbrite pad should shine it right up.

If you're not up for the expense of the woodworking II, I'd recommend a freud blade. take a look at their lineup, they'll have something that suits your needs.

[Mike Wilkins]

Congrats on getting some new iron. For some invaluable information on tablesaws and proper blades, get yourself a copy of the book from Taunton Press on Tablesaws. If I remember correctly, the author is Paul Anthony. There are some great tips on saw use, safety and blade selection that will be a great reference in the future.

[Matt Day]

Evaporust is awesome, +1 on that! You can get it at harbor freight and some auto parts stores (check their website for distributors near you).

[Todd Burch]

I typically use phosphoric acid on rust. Quick, cheap, easy clean up. (wet your floor under the saw with water first - this acid will stain your concrete if it drips)

[Jerrod McCrary]

Thanks for the info guys. I will try some evaporust, going to go by harbor freight tomorrow and get some. Thanks for the book info got it saved at Amazon for my next order.

[Mike Heidrick]

Boeshield Rust Free with a green scratch pad, wipe off with blue paper towles, WD40 and a green scratch pad and wipe off again, Johnsons Paste Wax polished in, Done.

I like evaporust to soak parts in - Kinda hard for a table.

[Jason White]

Use a heavy duty Scotch-Brite pad, some mineral spirits, and plenty of elbow grease. Then seal with paste wax or whatever.



I recently pulled the trigger and made a trade and got a 5HP X5 Delta Unisaw. The top is a little rusted and was interested in what would be a good choice for a rip blade for it. Found some dewalts blade priced right on amazon but I really dont understand all the different terminology about a saw blade yet. I will probably mainly use the table saw for ripping and a 12 sliding miter saw for cross cuts. Could anyone recommend decent blades for rookie for both. I have read about the WoodWorker II but little more than i want to spend. Also, any thoughts on the rust on the top. Thanks275331

[Mark Draper]

That is actually one of the few things left that I will use real steel wool on, add wd40 and when done make sure to remove the oil with lacquer thinner, then wax.

[Jerrod McCrary]

Thanks for the info. Used Boeshield rust free. Turned out okay.

[Jason King]

Excellent results! I'll have to look into it for a project I have brewing.

[Larry Gipson]

Looks nice. When I've used Rust Free on cast surfaces like my Unisaw, I've managed to leave behind sort of a splotchy surface. I'm probably a klutz. If I follow up with a medium scotchbrite pad (red) and T-9, I can clean it up to look like yours. T-9 is about the best rust inhibitor I've found. It seems oily at first, but if I wipe off the excess with a paper towel and let it sit overnight, it's fine. If I want the surface super slippery, I'll follow up with Johnsons Paste Wax. The T-9 seems to keep things rust free for maybe 6mo or so if I keep my salty hands off the metal. Paste wax alone seems to work for a much shorter period.

[Jerrod McCrary]

I like the results. I used the green scotch brite pads. I used probably half the bottle on the process. I sprayed the rust free on the scotch brite and scrubbed the entire top but still had some spots so I had an old palm sander that I used. I just placed the sander on top of the scotch brite and sprayed the top and sanded, wet sanding. As soon as I did this a few times I dried the top off with a cloth towel and sprayed with the t-9 and dried wiped with paper towel. I sprayed it with a heavier coat and was going to let it stay on it overnight. Do I need to put Johnson's paste wax on top of this or t-9 by itself? Thanks

[Bruce Wrenn]

Head over to Cripe Disributing's E Bay store and buy a couple of the Delta 35-7657 blades for $18.00 each, plus shipping. This my "do everything blade." Only comes off the saw when I'm cutting melamine, or veneer ply (oak, birch etc.)

[Joe Shinall]

Nicely done, was going to say BoeShield as well but see I'm late. Throw some Renaissance wax on that bad boy now.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have read about the WoodWorker II but little more than i want to spend.

Pardon me, but you spent how much on the saw? And you are concerned about the cost of the blades?

That's kind of like getting a BMW M3 and then buying down-market tires.

The blades are what do the work - the rest of the tool is there simply as a vehicle to get that blade spinning.

There are many good options out there, and folks here all have their favorites. My favorites are the Forest blades. I have

> WW-II x 2 for general work [1 on the saw, one in the cabinet or out for sharpening]
> Duraline Hi-AT for high-value panels. I admit that I rarely use it because I rarely work with hi-value panels. For my work, I wouldn't buy it again, but I got it and I'm keeping it.
> WW-I 30 tooth for ripping thick stock
> WW-I 20 tooth for ripping REALLY thick stock
> 8" dado king
> On the CMS - 80t Chopmaster x 2


I built this investment over the years. The back-up blades were picked off in the Classifieds here. Have always been very satisfied with their performance, so I had no incentive to experiment with other brands. And - yes - that is one darn big pile of $$$, which I write off to the "cry once" philosophy.

My preference has always been to send them to Forest for sharpening. The original blades are 13+ years old, and doing great.

[John Gustafson]

If you are looking for an explanation of blade/ tooth terminology hop over to the Dynamic Saw website. They have a series of short video's that explain the most important ones. Kind of a saw blade 101 class.

[Jerrod McCrary]

Thanks for the replies and help everyone. I really dont have anything invested in the saw other than a four wheeler I got when I was teenager that I never rode anymore. I traded a 1995 Honda 300 for the tablesaw. Being Christmas time I dont really have much money around, heck I usually dont have much money ever. I have decided to give the Freud LM74R010 a try, Amazon has it for $54. I am mainly going to rip on the table saw and use a dewalt 12" sliding miter for cross cuts. Thanks for the website John, Ill have to check it out. I have used a contractor type craftsman the last few years, for house remodeling type work, but I never gave much thought to the saw blades as long as they cut the material. Now since I will be making nicer things (I hope) I want the cuts to be nice and clean.