Bruce Mack
11-16-2013, 8:21 PM
In his thorough article on the large Veritas router plane, Derek Cohen noted that the blade could be used in the lateral position. Does anyone know if this is true for the Lie-Nielsen as well?
I am making a series of white oak/mica table lamps from an article in Popular Woodworking about a year ago. Much of the joinery is half lap joints on thin pieces ranging from 4 - 12" length, 5/8 - 1" width. For safety and uniformity I am gluing as many as four same-length pieces parallel on MDF and flipping the MDF so I can pass the slats over the straight bit on a router table with a couple of push blocks pressing down on the MDF. This works well and feels safe. The width of the laps needs no tweaking, but the bottoms are rougher than I like. I use a small L-N router plane to smooth the bottoms before I separate the slats from the MDF. This works well but is slow, as the oak is obdurate.
I'm thinking that the extra heft of the large router plane would be very helpful. However as most of the laps are at the ends of relatively short strips, I might find that the plane is unbalanced and tips too much with the blade in the fore-aft position. I could use a support piece, but this would involve extra clamping in a small work area and would limit free movement of the plane. Lateral blade positioning might help in this situation. I don't want to substitute a chisel, preferring the depth consistency of the plane. I'd like to stay in the L-N family, quite happy with their tools.
Sorry for the tedious explanation and thank you for your help.
I am making a series of white oak/mica table lamps from an article in Popular Woodworking about a year ago. Much of the joinery is half lap joints on thin pieces ranging from 4 - 12" length, 5/8 - 1" width. For safety and uniformity I am gluing as many as four same-length pieces parallel on MDF and flipping the MDF so I can pass the slats over the straight bit on a router table with a couple of push blocks pressing down on the MDF. This works well and feels safe. The width of the laps needs no tweaking, but the bottoms are rougher than I like. I use a small L-N router plane to smooth the bottoms before I separate the slats from the MDF. This works well but is slow, as the oak is obdurate.
I'm thinking that the extra heft of the large router plane would be very helpful. However as most of the laps are at the ends of relatively short strips, I might find that the plane is unbalanced and tips too much with the blade in the fore-aft position. I could use a support piece, but this would involve extra clamping in a small work area and would limit free movement of the plane. Lateral blade positioning might help in this situation. I don't want to substitute a chisel, preferring the depth consistency of the plane. I'd like to stay in the L-N family, quite happy with their tools.
Sorry for the tedious explanation and thank you for your help.