Video for a good method of tapering legs on the jointer

[Andy Pratt]

I recently had to taper some table legs that were too large to work on my table saw jig so I explored other options and ended up using this method that I found a video for. I was pretty happy with how things turned out so I wanted to share it for others to see. Aftery trying this out I may use this method in the future even if the legs would fit on my table saw jig, since the end result is much cleaner.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/jointer_to_taper_legs

A few of my observations:
- I did 3x3" legs, 30" long with a 1/2" over 25" taper and I felt like I had good control, but that it would be harder with smaller legs.
- You can't do a taper (leg length doesn't matter, just the actual taper length) that is longer than the infeed table of your jointer.
- If you try to do a taper that is longer than your infeed table you might not notice at first but would have a curved portion of your taper I think, so check this before starting this method
- I think you actually only need to mark two sides of each leg not all four, and you could ditch the 4 top markings once you're confident with the method and don't think you'll switch it end for end accidentally. This would be 2 markings vs 8 per leg so it would save a lot of time.
- Write on your fence in pencil or use tape since this mark will change a little based on the amount of taper you are removing
- You can do this multiple times (without re-marking) on the same side of the leg to achieve more dramatic tapers if your jointer can't take off much per pass
- This wasn't as absolutely precise a method as with a table saw jig, but that's probably my being new to the technique
- I have good dust collection on the table saw, but cutting tapers on it is always a dust mess, this was much more pleasant.

[Peter Quinn]

I use a multi pass method I saw on woodworks some years ago, you have to run in top of the leg first, you can clamp a stop to the out feed side of the fence to set the starting point, it pretty much requires multi pass, you mark the parts quickly, each pass adds more taper, its safe and quick, the set up is marginal. If I have a ton of tapers I find a saw quicker, if its a few, say four to eight, i prefer the jointer for ease of set up and the finish quality of the surface. Lots of the stock I work with isn't going to tolerate a 1/2" single pass method. I use the jointer to achieve all kinds of quick tapers, some times I''ll use it to straighten the grain on a piece of stock where the sawn edge from the mill doesn't follow the natural grain direction of the wood. You just start past the leading edge of the board, its a plunge onto the cutter, but you start off taking next to nothing so its not a great danger. First time I tried it I though sure something terrible was going to happen, took a leap of faith, wow that was easy.

[Jim Finn]

Kind of scary video! I do not see an advantage of this method over using a tapering jig, sled type, and a rip blade in my table saw, to make many, or just a few tapered pieces. No marking on all the many pieces to be tapered. Just set up the jig and cut the wood. A jig seems a lot safer too. I use my sled/jig mostly to make angled and tapered cuts. I made these items using my jig.

[Tai Fu]

I don't have a tablesaw, but I just rough it out on a bandsaw then run it through the jointer to true it... much faster than trying to pass it through a million times.

[Stephen Cherry]

The best way to taper is with the cr onsrud inverted pin router (just kidding, but you could do it pretty easily if you had a long bit).

Actually, first up is sliding table saw- just set the flip stop for the top of the leg, and clamp down a piece of plywood on the table to set the angle. Then a Kreg surface clamp to hold the leg down. cut, flip, adjust clamp, cut, and you are done. Clean up on jointer or sander

Shaper, with a plywood jig and a 3 of destaco clamps. Byrd head with bearing. One at the top and two at the two different heights at the bottom.

With the jointer- mark the outfeed fence so that you don't cut the flat part of the leg. Set the cut for 1/4, minus a little. Drop the leg flat onto the outfeed table at the cut line, and rotate the bottom of the leg to the infeed table. 4 cuts make almost an inch of taper. Folow this up with 1/32 cuts on the taper surface then one on the flat surface. I've done this, but don't like to because I'd rather make scraps for the fireplace than chips. It works just fine though.

It would be possible to make a clamping jig for the jointer, just as with the shaper, but I've never tried it.

[glenn bradley]

If we read Andy's first statement:


I recently had to taper some table legs that were too large to work on my table saw jig so I explored other options

it is clear why no tablesaw solution would work for him.

The bandsaw is also a good alternative to things that exceed the tablesaw's range.