How to fill or stabilize a burl gap

[Brian Kent]

Here is a beautiful burl that I am attempting to turn into a bowl. I turned away a lot of the loose stuff, but one huge gap is unavoidable. I have three ideas and wonder what you might do.

1) Start filling in the huge gap with epoxy, by itself, with coffee grounds, or with some other filler (turquoise, copper, whatever).

2) Try the 1/2 water 1/2 white glue soak method. Heard of it but never tried it before. (Keep the gap)

3) Use a wood hardener and keep the gap.

Thanks for your experience, everyone.

Brian

ps. Of course, whatever you know that I didn't know was an option.

[David Reed]

Most of my burl turnings have gaps like this and I would definitely leave it as is. Looks like the 'advanced spalting' may be a bigger challenge to deal with. When turning with very large voids like this, I try to engage the 'finish cut from 1-1.5" depth during hollowing' technique, leaving plenty of support for cutting as you move through it. I am very happy with the Minwax hardener (prior thread re stabilizers with wildly varied opinions) and would soak with several coats before any hollowing and completely finish the outside. Then you know just what the outside dimension is and can cut to desired wall thickness. I have several pieces with large voids if you would like to view some pics for a frame of reference.

[Wally Dickerman]

Brian, that gap is too large to fill with anything....you're going to have a bowl with a large hole in it.

If the the wood is solid but a little bit punky the 50/50 water and white glue soak will help to firm the wood up. Rough turn the bowl to perhaps 5/8 or 3/4 inch. I soak in the solution for about 24 hours. Longer might be better but I haven't done that. You're soaking in water so you'll have to set the bowl aside for a week or 2 to let it do whatever warping it wants to do. Then finish turn it. I've done several over the years and my sucess rate is perhaps 75 percent. However, some of the bowls were pretty punky but nice wood so worth a try.

A plus when doing the glue soak...Usually small cracks will disappear. The wood expands in the water and you're soaking in glue.

[mike ash]

Brian - For my tastes, I don't care for LARGE areas filled with anything. When I approach a wood block with holes, I usually try to accentuate them in the design of the piece. I think Doc Keller takes this approach too!!!

It looks like you are going to have some great character in that wood piece. It just may not be able to hold chopped salad. It might be decorative in design??!!

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[Adrian Anguiano]

Leave it as is... If you do it right it will look more natural and artistic than flat out filling. You lose the 3D effect

[Brian Kent]

Mike that figure on the right side picture is amazing. Is that the natural pattern?

[mike ash]

Brian - the vase on the right side is a BLM burl that had a deep bark inclusion. I started picking away at the bark and found that if I turned a thick wall, I would be left with a natural carving of a tree ( at least thats what it looks like in person)... Or I could turn a thinner wall and have a hole. I'm glad decided to leave it!!! Everyone that sees that piece falls in love with it.

Mike

[Rob Boesem]

Completely my two cents, but I would consider a design change and go for a closed form or hollow form and keep the void, Brian....That's a beautiful piece of wood!!!

I have to say, I don't envy you working with a piece of wood that looks as soft as that!

[Brian Kent]

Rob, I'll consider a closed form but I don't know how to do hollow forms yet. Maybe this would be a good place to start since I could see inside the bowl as I turn ;).

[Rob Boesem]

I'm only working my way toward one of those "tiny hole hollow forms", as well. :)

Don't take my opinion to the bank, but I just see that piece of wood wanting to have the top edges rolled in......I stopped arguing with the wood awhile ago...lol

[Brian Kent]

I'll think about it. My original purpose is to have wide flared sides to expose as much of that grain as possible. I guess a calabash bowl would serve a similar purpose.

[Rob Boesem]

Whatever you choose, Brian, I'm sure it will be a beautiful piece!

[charlie knighton]

Brian, you are correct, having the void will help you have equal thickness sides because you can see what you are doing, enjoy

[robert baccus]

The big void will look nice--pretty wood. At some point you might wrap 5-6 turns of packing tape around the little bridge. The tape with nylon fibers in it. Maybe a bit of thin CA on that tenon or glueblock it.

[John Keeton]

Brian, all the "white" areas on that wood are a form of rot - probably white pocket rot. I agree with not having any fill, but I also agree with Wally on soaking this piece. Otherwise, you will have a very difficult time getting a decent surface for finish - and, may anyway. Without doubt, be careful - your piece of wood is suffering from decay and probably does not have sufficient strength to withstand much in the way of stress.

For me, while it has some nice figure and character, I would not turn this piece of wood. Others will most certainly disagree with that position.

[Tim Leiter]

+1 What John said. There is too much good wood around to try and make something out of your piece, it will most likely bust apart when you least expect it on the lathe. Tim.

[robert baccus]

Look back and consider an epoxy soak.

[Brian Kent]

Hmmm. Thought I posted this before but I didn't.

I am trying the white glue soak. I believe those who say they would pass on this piece of wood, but I want to use a piece that may not work to try out the white glue bath. Meanwhile, it may work. If it works, I may or may not like it anyway.

Here is the bowl about 5/8" thick, with the other half of the burl. I think on the other half I will cut out all of the holy part and make a much smaller bowl.

[Dan Hintz]

Oh, the things I could do with that pretty stuff... if you don't want it, Brian, I'd be happy to dispose of it for you :)

[Dale Gillaspy]

I'm going to chime in, just to pull together some of the previous comments. I agree with John, Wally, and several others. Soak it to stabilize it. A bowl form is fine, but I think a HF will actually show off more of the grain. If you are uncomfortable using a nice burl as a first HF, start with a calabash bowl as you suggested, or a HF with a large opening. The opening will not only help with wall thickness, but with clearing shavings from the center as you turn, as well. If I need something wrapped around the form for stability, I sometimes use packing film instead of tape. I get it from the U-haul store. It is like industrial Saran Wrap, about 8" wide. A couple of wraps with that, and it won't come apart while you are turning it.

[Pat Scott]

Too late now that you've already made the bowl. But I was going to suggest that with as big of punky area that you have, either make a smaller bowl or think of something else to make with it. Cut it up on the bandsaw into smaller chunks and make a box, ornament, handles, etc.

If you want a bowl from the 2nd piece of burl, this is what I'd do. Everything else would be cut into smaller chunks.
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[Brian Kent]

Pat, I have not cut the second piece yet, but that is exactly where I drew the circle for the next bowl. Since I tried the flared wings on the first I will try a calabash or closed form with an opening 2-3 inches. Bowl #1 is soaking right now.

[robert baccus]

I just realized looking at the big burl picture that this is white rot. Usually very firm and even hard when turning. It should stay together fine.

[robert baccus]

Kent it appears you will have boocoo scraps left. Test some of the soak methods and glue uses and find out which is better for you. Data is far superior to opinions. There is a huge difference between knowing and understanding.

[Brian Kent]

This one is more fun. From the other half of the burl. A 2-1/4" hole is the smallest I can manage with my current skills and tools.

Now adding layers of WTF.

[robert baccus]

very pretty and good shape. how was the burl strength.

[Fred Belknap]

Brian that is a fine looking hollow form. I don't see any reason to have a real small opening except to brag. I like to be able to get my hand in it.

[Rob Boesem]

That is a stunning hollow form, Brian!!!......You could tell me you have done many hollow forms, and I would believe you!

You really made the most of the beauty in that piece of wood! Congrats!!!

[Brian Kent]

Thank you. Robert, the burl was surprisingly strong. I went very slowly because it was dry and powdery, but it held itself together until I could start the layers of WTF.

[Pat Scott]

Agreed, nice looking hollow form!