Router Lift for Plunge Router

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi. I hope we can shed light on my problem. Here in South Africa, it appears that fixed collar routers are rarer than dinosaur toothbrushes. All we can get are plunger routers. The brand available are Bosch, Makita, Festo, Festool, Ryobi, Metabo, De Walt...every plunge router imaginable..but nothing with a fixed collar. So what router lift system do you recommend for plunge routers. I would have to bring the item in from the US or Canada as router lifts here are non existant. About the onlt thing available is Triton. Any ideas???

Thanks in advance

Tobias

[Jamie Buxton]

Several manufacturers have made plunge routers with features to support direct mounting to a router table -- without a router lift. They usually have some scheme to adjust the depth of cut from the top of the table, and often have the ability to change the bit from the top of the table. Triton sold a couple like that in the US (TRA001). Bosch sells one (1619EVS) like that in the US. Dunno what models are sold in South Africa.

[michael case]

274736 A home-made handle turning a threaded rod through a captured nut and in a fixed plate. This has worked for me for decades.

[Richard Coers]

I use the Router Raizer on my Dewalt 625, less than $90 and I love it.
http://www.routertechnologies.com/index.html

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I recently built a router table, installed a Woodpecker PRLV-2 http://www.woodpeck.com/prlv2.html and a PC 7518 router motor only http://www.woodpeck.com/pc75182.html . I have used it a couple times and truly enjoy it!

I have no relationship with Woodpecker other than a satisfied customer.

[Joe Scharle]

Why not the Triton? I know of 6-10 WWrs who are happy with the Triton here in the US.

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Michael.
Thanks for the input. A clever system.

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Richard. Yup, this is the way that I am leaning. I would be using a DW 625 as well. I just don't see the point of adding yet another router to my arsenal just yet. Anything that I should know about the Raizer?
Best regards Tobias

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Ken. Woodpecker's product looks amazing. The problem is that we don't get Porter Cable here. Thanks for the input . Best regards Tobias

[Tobias Lochner]

Thanks for your reply Joe. I have not investigated the Triton range but will do so. Then to weigh up the costs of buying a Triton locally against importing the Router Raizer kit from your shores. Regards Tobias

[Curt Harms]

Thanks for your reply Joe. I have not investigated the Triton range but will do so. Then to weigh up the costs of buying a Triton locally against importing the Router Raizer kit from your shores. Regards Tobias

If you're the creative type, you can make your own Router Raizer though it helps to see a Router Raizer to understand how they work. In essence, you take a piece of threaded rod, drill a hole in the end and tap it for a socket cap screw. Most plunge routers have a fixed threaded rod with a knob on the end. If I recall correctly, you replace this fixed rod with the threaded rod/socket cap screw. Then you need a fixed threaded nut that moves the router up and down. There was an article on another web site with specifics that I can't find.

Another simple alternative if you don't require above table access is to remove the knob on the fixed threaded rod and replace it with a crank. The crank requires a hollow stem with a handle on one end and threads on the other. I had a setup like this for a while before buying a router raizer. I used a dowel, hex nut set into the dowel & epoxied in place and crank on the other end. It worked but I removed the plunge springs and the height would change due to vibration if I didn't use the plunge lock. When I installed the router raizer I reinstalled the springs per the directions. The router raizer has enough 'drag' that it doesn't require use of the plunge lock on my Freud FT2000E.

[glenn bradley]

Woodpecker's product looks amazing. The problem is that we don't get Porter Cable here. Thanks for the input . Best regards Tobias . . .

The brand available are Bosch, Makita, Festo, Festool, Ryobi, Metabo, De Walt...every plunge router imaginable..but nothing with a fixed collar.

If you get Milwaukee and like the Woodpecker stuff, I have a couple of Milwaukee 5625's and PRL's that have been flawless performers.

Now to your original question . . . Richard beat me to the Router Raizer suggestion. I have not used one but, many, many people use this inexpensive solution. As an aside, if you do get Triton down there, they have the lift features built in; intentionally removable springs, crank and safety features all built in. If you are adding this to an existing router I would go with the router raizer.

[Julie Moriarty]

I have a Bosch 1617 EVS mounted to a Jessum Rout-R-Lift. Both are close to 20 years old. I removed the spring and bottomed out the router. It has worked just fine with only one time that the lock disengaged partially while routing and slipped. I fixed that and it's worked great ever since.

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Julie, many thanks for the input. I would love one of those routers, but Bosch in thier wisdom didn't export them to SA.
Best regards
Tobias

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Glen. yup we do get Milwaukee, but once again, no fixed base models unfortunately, only plunge. I will probably go with the Router Raizer.
Best regards
Tobias

[Tobias Lochner]

Hello Curt. Thanks for your reply. Now we are getting somewhere....... I will be using my De Walt 625 in the table. It is easy enough to put a "fixed nut" on threaded bar and replace the existing threaded bar/adjustable nut system. Where I draw a blank is how does one make the other end captive without it threading itself out of the hole on the base plate? Maybe you can throw more light on this?? Look forward to your suggestions
Best regards
Tobias.

[Roy Harding]

I've been using a Router Raizer on a Porter Cable 7529 for at least 12 years now. I'm very happy with it. I imagine they may well have made improvements since I purchased mine - but I can't imagine what those improvements would be.

[Rick Potter]

Since you mention that Milwaukee is available there, I have some experience with using one in a table. When I needed an extra router table for a couple months, I made a simple table across sawhorses, and put my Milwaukee 5615 plunge router in it. It came with a crank handle to use when in a table, and adjusted simply and easily. I was very impressed with it.

Rick Potter

[Greg Hines, MD]

You said you cannot get Porter-Cable products there, but my solution was a PC-890, and I mount the fixed base to the bottom of the table, and drilled a couple of holes to allow you to use a wrench on the end of the adjustment bolt to allow you to raise and lower from above the table and to then lock the base. I really like it, and it avoids having to use a lift.

Doc

[Curt Harms]

Hello Curt. Thanks for your reply. Now we are getting somewhere....... I will be using my De Walt 625 in the table. It is easy enough to put a "fixed nut" on threaded bar and replace the existing threaded bar/adjustable nut system. Where I draw a blank is how does one make the other end captive without it threading itself out of the hole on the base plate? Maybe you can throw more light on this?? Look forward to your suggestions
Best regards
Tobias.

This is why I wish I could find that article. I am not at all familiar with the DeWalt router so don't know how the height adjusting rod attaches to the the hole in the base plate. The hole in the base plate is a through hole, any threads are not used. What I would suspect is a thin jam nut on either side of the base plate either double nutted or held in place with loc-tite. Or possibly a collar with one or more set screws. The threaded rod needs to turn but not move through the base plate. Here's a pic of a router raizer installed on what looks like a DW625:

http://www.routertechnologies.com/dewalt.htm

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Rick. Unfortunately the Milwaukee models that are available in South Africa don't have the crank handle.
Cheers
Tobias

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Curt. Thanks very much for your reply. The rod on the DW625 threads into the base plate and has a small circular locking pin that drives in from the side. I understand the logic of making the threaded rod captive at the base but via a bearing system of some sort that would allow the rod to spin freely and not wind itself through the base. Thin jam nuts I think could well work. Not being a good metalworker and being a very visual person, I would love to see a drawing of such system.
Thanks for your input
Cheers
Tobias

[Curt Harms]

Hi Curt. Thanks very much for your reply. The rod on the DW625 threads into the base plate and has a small circular locking pin that drives in from the side. I understand the logic of making the threaded rod captive at the base but via a bearing system of some sort that would allow the rod to spin freely and not wind itself through the base. Thin jam nuts I think could well work. Not being a good metalworker and being a very visual person, I would love to see a drawing of such system.
Thanks for your input
Cheers
Tobias

Router Raizer uses brass or bronze washers for bearings, I think two on each side of the base casting. I doubt I could help with drawings. I imagine each make/model would be a little different plus my drafting/artistic skills suck. What may be most challenging is to make sure the socket head used to turn the threaded rod is recessed below the router's base.

[Rick Potter]

About that Milwaukee crank handle. Perhaps I misstated it. It is simply an 8" long 'T' handle with a socket at the end. You could easily use a long extension on a 1/4" socket set.

Good luck finding what you need.

Rick Potter

[Tobias Lochner]

Thanks Rick. I shall chat to our local Milwaukee distributor next week.
Cheers
Tobias

[Tobias Lochner]

Hi Curt.
Your explanation makes complete sense. I think I am going to pop round to a metalwork buddy and see what I can maybe scratch up.

Cheers
Tobias