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Derek Cohen
11-10-2013, 8:56 AM
Over the years I have used a number of different mallets to pound a mortice chisel. The search may have ended.


Until about a year ago I was using one of Dave Jeske's (Blue Spruce Tools) ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Mallets2.jpg


This is beautiful to look at, beautifully made (as is everything he makes), is a pleasure to use with bench chisels, however at 16 oz it is too light for a mortice chisel into hard woods.


For morticing I preferred either a Thor (about 20 oz) or the Veritas (19 oz). While not significantly heavier, they focus the downforce and this is more efficient.


Here are the Thor and Veritas alongside a long-discarded Marples (only 14 oz).


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/2_zpsbce06b7a.jpg


The Thor is a great mallet. I purchased it for convincing furniture parts to get closer together with each other, however it makes a great mallet for chisel work when wanting to work quietly or reducing vibration. The downside it that it looks like something that a motor mechanic would use .. which is where the Veritas comes in. The Veritas is a good design. My only gripe (easily fixed) is that the handle is a little too slim for my hand. I want this to be longer as well, but that probably reflects the mass/downforce limitation. It would be great to see a 2 lb version of this hammer produced for morticing. Rob, are you listening ...?


What I want in a mallet for morticing is something that has about 32 - 38 oz, is relatively compact for this weight, and will not damage the unhooped wooden handles of a Western mortice chisel. This would not be an issue if I used Japanese mortice chisels as I have a few gennou, including one that is 450 gm (16 oz). Interestingly, this lighter hammer seems to have more downforce, possibly because it is focused on a small area? The problem, however, with steel-headed hammers is that they destroy wooden handles. I'd rather replace the mallet than the chisel handles.


What brought matters to a head this weekend was the recent release by Blue Spruce of a 24 oz Joiner's Mallet in infused acrylic (which should make it indestructible).


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/MLTJNR1_big_zpsd2316c06.jpg


It has been given two thumbs up by Chris Schwarz ..


http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/woodworking-hand-tools/highly-recommended-blue-spruce-joiners-mallet


So why didn't I just order one? Well I am still waiting for The Chair to arrive so I may complete my measurements and start building one (hopefully tomorrow!), and I had time on my hands and a plan in my head ...


Put me in front of a bench with spokeshaves, rasps and a few scrapers, and I am as Happy as Larry (translation: http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/as-happy-as-larry.html).


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/1_zps18407922.jpg


A bit of Karri for the head (heavier and more interlocked than Jarrah) and Curly Marri for the handle (softer, "chewy", I think will absord vibration well), and bit of brass ... This is what I came up with ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/3_zps97cd6e8f.jpg


The faces have leather for cushioning the chisel handes. The mallet handle is oval in cross section, approximately 1 1/2" x 1" and 10" long. The head is approximately 5" long x 3 " high and 2 3/8" wide.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/4_zpse2b9f873.jpg


The overall weight of this mallet came in at a little over 38 oz. How did it manage this in a relatively small head? It is down to the 1/4" thick brass plate that was added (peened) to each side ..


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/5_zpsc4ab58f1.jpg


In use this mallet is in a different class to the others for morticing. It certainly helps in punching the chisel through hardwoods ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/6_zps5c244802.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

adam riley
11-10-2013, 9:10 AM
Very nice Derek. That Curly Marri certainly has interesting grain. How is it to work?
I like the idea of the brass side pieces.

All the best.
Adam.

Derek Cohen
11-10-2013, 9:21 AM
Hi Adam

The Curly Marri is horrible to handplane! It is very interlocked. My trials and tribulations in building this kist were documented here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Kist.html

But it is beautiful ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Kist_html_m143e34e7.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Tony Wilkins
11-10-2013, 9:53 AM
Very nice as usual Derek. Looks like one instance where those super hard Aussie hardwoods turned out to be advantageous.

Sean Hughto
11-10-2013, 10:05 AM
Very pretty! How exactly is the brass attached?

Dave Kirby
11-10-2013, 10:07 AM
That is possibly the most beautiful mallet I have ever seen! The stuff my dreams are made of! Even THOR himself would be proud to wield that instrument!! Incredible work sir!

Derek Cohen
11-10-2013, 10:16 AM
Very pretty! How exactly is the brass attached?

Hi Sean

Epoxy and 4 brass screws. It is not going anywhere.

I have a large sheet of 1/4" thick brass at home, about 36" x 36", that I was given. I would love to know what it is as it is very hard and heavier than usual.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek Cohen
11-10-2013, 10:17 AM
Thanks Dave.

Regards from Perth

Derek

george wilson
11-10-2013, 11:36 AM
I can make out the 4 screws in 1 of the pictures. The brass looks like 260 alloy in the pictures,if the color in the picture is reliable. The screws look typically like 360 alloy. 360 looks pinkish when inserted in the more yellow or yellowish green 260 alloy. You can see the pinkish hued screws if you look closely. Round brass rod is nearly always 360 alloy. The pinkish hue is only noticed when compared to 260 alloy. On its own,360 just looks like regular yellow brass.

The hardness of any brass depends upon how much it was rolled. Usually 260 is sold as "half hard",but it could also be "full hard" if rolled more. That could account for the extra hardness and weight. A Naval brass or bronze would be a more rich golden color.It is really beautiful stuff. I have made 2 cannon from it 5" in diameter. Tough like stainless steel to turn. My friend Chris Vesper sawed my 4 foot by 8 foot 1/2" Naval bronze sheet into more manageable pieces for me when he was here. My back trouble prevented me from getting down there to saw it. I had bought a used metal cutting Skil type saw for the purpose. It worked great !

Jim Koepke
11-10-2013, 12:26 PM
Very nice.

I'd probably stare at the handle too much to get any work done.

jtk

Brian Holcombe
11-10-2013, 12:30 PM
Looks fantastic!

Harold Burrell
11-10-2013, 12:50 PM
Nope. Sorry. No way. Not for me...

I mean, there is no way in the world that I would ever pound on something with a mallet that looked that nice. :D

Derek Cohen
11-11-2013, 4:00 AM
I can make out the 4 screws in 1 of the pictures. The brass looks like 260 alloy in the pictures,if the color in the picture is reliable. The screws look typically like 360 alloy. 360 looks pinkish when inserted in the more yellow or yellowish green 260 alloy. You can see the pinkish hued screws if you look closely. Round brass rod is nearly always 360 alloy. The pinkish hue is only noticed when compared to 260 alloy. On its own,360 just looks like regular yellow brass.

The hardness of any brass depends upon how much it was rolled. Usually 260 is sold as "half hard",but it could also be "full hard" if rolled more. That could account for the extra hardness and weight. A Naval brass or bronze would be a more rich golden color.It is really beautiful stuff. I have made 2 cannon from it 5" in diameter. Tough like stainless steel to turn. My friend Chris Vesper sawed my 4 foot by 8 foot 1/2" Naval bronze sheet into more manageable pieces for me when he was here. My back trouble prevented me from getting down there to saw it. I had bought a used metal cutting Skil type saw for the purpose. It worked great !

Hi George

I am impressed! Not that you guessed correctly - I would not know one way or the other - but that you know enough to do so.

This brass was hard, but still not in the same league as the piece I used to build a couple of lever caps several years ago. It was enough just to grind them into a simple shape. More than that was impossible. I suspect that this is phosphor bronze. Perhaps you can say more. Hard is an understatement ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/GalootSmootherII_html_m3d3da022.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/GalootSmootherII_html_m26d32203.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek Cohen
11-11-2013, 4:30 AM
I replaced the leather on the mallet heads with pieces off an old horse butt strop. This is about 1/8" thick and firm. It is attached with hide glue, of course :)


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/9_zps61c77af5.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Morticing%20mallet/8_zpsf1c99e3c.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

Jim Matthews
11-11-2013, 7:49 AM
I have a large sheet of 1/4" thick brass at home, about 36" x 36", that I was given. I would love to know what it is as it is very hard and heavier than usual. Derek

Was the sheet round, glows faintly in the dark?
There's a piece of US military hardware that went missing, years ago...

274808

george wilson
11-11-2013, 8:21 AM
Not sure what metal that is,Derek. Certainly looks copper colored. I have a Stanley body that I want to turn into an infill plane one of these days. I got a #3,but it is too narrow,so I got a #4 also. It looks more promising. I could put it in the mill and smooth out the insides smoother. Then fit the wood,etc.. I intend to use my die filer and change the shape of the sides. Not that yours isn't nice. I see you did some filing on the inside of your plane body.

roger m lance
11-11-2013, 11:30 AM
LOL.....Jim.....you know when they state it could be missing US military item that "glows faintly in the dark".....that its not a good thing.....break out the Geiger counter!!

Gary Muto
11-20-2013, 11:30 AM
Derek,

Very nice hammer. It's also interesting to see the details that George picks up and points out. I've only ever worked with 260 Brass so I was unaware of any color differences.

As a recent resident of Colorado, I was pleased to see a product of our state made it into this beautiful project.

Great Work as always.

Noah Wagener
11-21-2013, 4:42 AM
I bet Larry rhymes with something and not an historical person.I'd wager an Oxford scholar. Have you read In A Sun Burnt Country by Bill Bryson?

george wilson
11-21-2013, 10:34 AM
It seems to be impossible to get round rod stock in 260. It is all 360. Maybe I haven't dug deep enough. Many years ago I,too, didn't know there was a difference.