Sanding advise needed. Last sanding session brought on flare up of carpal tunnel

[Brad Cambell]

Where do I start. I have sanded for great lengths of time before but this time must have been too much. I only have 2 sanders. A belt sander and a 1/4 sheet palm sander that I've had for 20 years.

I wanted to get a few things done so I could spray everything at once, over the weekend (last weekend)

I had 100 ft of 6" flat baseboard, five doors, a table top (approximately 16 sq ft.) and a cabinet.
I sanded for 5 hours Thursday night. The next day, I got up bright and early and sanded another 10 hours. Saturday I hand rubbed everything with two coats of stain.

I felt fine on Saturday when I went to bed. When I woke up on Sunday my hands were swollen and if I made a fist or pushed on the bottom side of my wrist it sent shooting pain through my arm!!

Needless to say, I rested Sunday. Now it's Thursday and I feel about 85% better but I'm not ready to do any more. I think by Sat or Sun I will spray the lacquer on everything. What a scare or maybe a wake up call???

So, I guess it's time to upgrade my sanding equipment. I need to do something different but what?
I make trim, cabinets, furniture, etc. pretty much anything and everything.

What do you use? Is Festool worth the $$$?

[Ralph Okonieski]

I had similar experiences as you described. I bought a Festool sander and found it greatly eliminated much of the swelling, etc. the next day. It did not eliminate all of it but was still able to function. In my view it was definitely worth the money.

[David Hawkins]

I worked as Health and Safety manager in a furniture factory and carpal tunnel was a big problem for our sanders. From the sound of your post you should probably consult with a doctor. Your lively hood is on the line. The motions that go with sanding are so repetitive that this problem is going to take some serious solving. Follow you doctor's advice. This is a problem that prevention is better, but done is done and it probably won't heal on it's own and if you try to push it it will only get worse. Sorry to sound so negative but the upside is that you still have function. Many people have to go out on disability from this type of problem so consult with you Dr. asap!

[Rob Feldner]

I'd suggest stopping and stretching your hands and arms every half hour or so. You should do the same for your neck and back since you're likely bent over a table the whole time. I sometimes spend the majority of a 40 hour week sanding, and it helps quite a bit. I also wear cycling gloves if I'm sanding for a long period. The padded palms help lessen the vibration.
Equipment can also make all the difference. Good sanders do a better job on your work and do less of a job on you. The difference between a Metabo orbital sander and a DeWalt is HUGE. Don't even get me started on the Makita palm sanders...they'll rattle your teeth out!
You didn't mention noise or dust, but ear plugs and a dust mask should be standard issue. That goes double if you use any exotic woods.

[Brad Cambell]

Rob, yes it was a Makita palm sander. I always use ear plugs.

[Brad Cambell]

David, luckily this is a hobby for me and not a vocation. So I can give it all the time it needs to heal.
I have a job that is 65% desk and 35% shop. I can take it easy at work if I have to.
As luck would have it, I had a dr. appt for my shoulder the next day. He looked at it and said it would be fine if I was able to give it some rest and DON'T DO ANYMORE SANDING UNTIL THE SWELLING WENT AWAY!!!! I followed that to the letter. I will spray that lacquer this weekend and probably won't do any more sanding until next year. My shoulder is being operated on Dec 12th (SLAP tear). So I will be down for a while.
I know a little bit about carpal tunnel. I was an aircraft mechanic for a couple years and it was rampant in that industry.
Carpal tunnel scares the crap out of me, so I will be pro-active.
Thanks for the help David.

[Aaron Berk]

I had very similar but mild issues using ridgid sanders.

I went out and bought a Bosch, and I've not had a problem since.

It's a Bosch R0S65VC

[Brad Cambell]

So are there any recommendations on sanders????????????????????? Or someone with similar experience that switched sanders and the problem went away??????????????????????

[paul cottingham]

Honestly, I stopped using sanders, and now hand plane everything.

[Matt Meiser]

I saw a few recommendations on sanders above??????????????

There are numerous posts on this forum and others from people who have noted a major difference in smoothness when going to a premium sander like Festool or the Mirka Ceros. As a big added benefit, the better sanders also have dramatically better dust collection.

Personally I have the Festool ETS150/3 and love it.

[Jim Matthews]

I wonder if a padded glove (http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/atdgelcyglor.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=44485810716&utm_content=pla&gclid=CMfotJXH1boCFXHxOgodMkQACQ), designed for bicycle riding might help.

The "claw" position applies more force to the base of the hand, near the wrist.
I suppose a sander with multiple holding positions might help.

[Prashun Patel]

I think you should re-assess your whole sanding strategy. If you're doing that much sanding, consider a drum sander to get you to second base. Holding ANYTHING, even the Mirka Ceros for 10 hours is a recipe for CTS.

For me, the highest amount of time is spent on the rougher grits (< 150g). A drum sander will get you through all of that. Then you can use a ROS (I'd pick this over a palm sander; it's just more aggressive which means less time in the hand).

I have a Ceros, but honestly, in your case, I'd put that money towards a good drum sander, and then pony up more for a $100 or less ROS. It's difficult to go wrong with ANY of the ROS's if your technique and paper is good. Pick a light one with variable speed. I've had a Bosch and I found it very light.

In your specific case, the only reason I'd recommend the Ceros is because it has a DC motor. The bulk unit sits on the floor; the sander itself is very light (I don't find the difference in vibration to be significant vs an AC motor ROS). HOWEVER, the size also means you cannot alter the grip between top and barrel-style. That means your hand is locked in one position and must depress the paddle switch. In my experience, that can eventually get fatiguing also.

I love mine. But IMHO, (respectfully) you should be strategizing how to reduce time spent sanding, not just improving what is inherently going to be a tedious, dusty, and unhealthy process.

[Brad Cambell]

I am a road bicyclist and have gloves that have pads on them to help with pressure points. What a great idea. Thanks Jim, when my hands feel better enough, I'll try that. I saw that Festool has a 30 day guarantee and I might try one of their sanders. My Makita is needing replaced. It vibrates like crazy, I just haven't had any issues until Sunday. I guess that I have been doing more sanding and it was bound to happen with the long sanding sessions.

[Brad Cambell]

Matt, I guess it's time to pony up and replace my old Makita.

[Brad Cambell]

You have a valid point. With a drum sander, I could have eliminated the 4 hours of sanding my trim on Thursday night and I could have put the doors through them as well.
I've been thinking of a 16 -32 performax sander.........

[Loren Woirhaye]

Festool is good. I have one. It doesn't prevent nerve problems though. If you don't want those issues you need to get your hands off the tool. Consider a stroke sander. I find drum sanders create as many or more problems than they solve in cabinet work.

I hold the Rotex sander by the end of the vacuum hose to isolate my hand from the vibration. This may not work as well with the other Festool sanders.

[Brad Cambell]

The thing that I see happening with the drum sander is not sanding flat. Since it's an open sander, you could sand something wider than 16" by turning it and running it back through. Does the open sander flex when a board is being fed through? Another problem I can see, for raised panel doors, you would have to sand the cross grain scratches out.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Change your grip on the sander, sand with your non dominant hand, sand with both hands. Changing your grips can help repetetive motion injuries. And you should upgrade your palm sander. I have a Performax (Jet) 16-32, it is wonderful. I have a Bosch ROS. I like it, although if you can afford it, the Festool is better, smoother, cooler and virtualy dustless.

[John Sanford]

One thing that's not being mentioned is the angle. The more bend in your wrist, the more problematic. Reducing the angle your wrist is bent at will be helpful regardless of how smooth or rackety your sander.