What's your favorite straight edge?

[Dave Cullen]

I have a steel 24" straight edge that has a slight bow to it, and it's bugged me for 25 years. This is the type that's about 1/8" thick and one edge is beveled. I can get a "machinist's" version of the same thing, accurate to .001 over its length, from McMaster for about $115 or $64 without the bevel. I know that's overkill for woodworking, but reference tools should be dead on IMO.

A carpenter's square doesn't stand on edge, and plastic rules are too easily dinged. What do you guys use?

[Paul McGaha]

Hi Dave,

I have the Veritas steel straight edges:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56676&cat=1,240,45313,56676

I like them and recommend them.

PHM

[Keith Hankins]

I bought a Woodpecker precision strait edge with ruler. It was not cheap, but I love it and use it all the time. I keep it in the HD tube it arrived in.

http://www.woodpeck.com/serx36.html

[John Schweikert]

Ditto. Excellent straight edge.


I bought a Woodpecker precision strait edge with ruler. It was not cheap, but I love it and use it all the time. I keep it in the HD tube it arrived in.

http://www.woodpeck.com/serx36.html

[Rick Potter]

My aluminum Unifence extrusion. I especially use it to check boards after jointing.

Rick Potter

[Art Mann]

I have the Veritas 50 inch aluminum straight edge. I consider it essential for equipment setups. Here is a link to it.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1

[Jim Finn]

I have 36" and 48" steel "circumference rules" that are used by sheet metal workers. I kept mine after I retired. One is 40 years old.

[Rob Feldner]

I was going to say Minor Threat, then I realized that I had misunderstood...
Seriously though, any one that is the right size and acceptable tolerance will do the job. In other words, any of the above suggestions. Just remember to hang it out of the way and don't let anyone use it for anything but a straight edge. Ever.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

I was going to say Minor Threat, then I realized that I had misunderstood...
Seriously though, any one that is the right size and acceptable tolerance will do the job. In other words, any of the above suggestions. Just remember to hang it out of the way and don't let anyone use it for anything but a straight edge. Ever.

I would say don't let anyone use it ever - for a straight edge or otherwise. BTW - happy with my Woodpeckers SERX.

[Bill Huber]

I have the 36" from Lee Vally, it is steel and heavy and that is what I really like. When I set it on the table saw or router table it stays there and I can use a feeler gauge to slide under it without it falling over.

I had an aluminum one that I gave away because it would not stay put when I hit it with a feeler gauge.

[Dave Zellers]

36" Lee Valley steel here. What Bill said.

[David Weaver]

I have a steel 24" straight edge that has a slight bow to it, and it's bugged me for 25 years. This is the type that's about 1/8" thick and one edge is beveled. I can get a "machinist's" version of the same thing, accurate to .001 over its length, from McMaster for about $115 or $64 without the bevel. I know that's overkill for woodworking, but reference tools should be dead on IMO.

A carpenter's square doesn't stand on edge, and plastic rules are too easily dinged. What do you guys use?

Call Mcmaster and see if they'll tell you if the 24" without bevel is a starrett. If it is, I'd have that as a short one (and do). I think it's a starrett no 380.

Several years ago, I also bought a 48 inch 385 for a hair over 200 bucks. I have no *need* for a straight edge like that, but it makes planing edges (by hand) a joy. If someone else would've had one, I'd have been just as good off using theirs as a reference and making a straight edge out of much less expensive precision ground stock.

[Dave Kirby]

I bought a Woodpecker precision strait edge with ruler. It was not cheap, but I love it and use it all the time. I keep it in the HD tube it arrived in.

http://www.woodpeck.com/serx36.html
+1 on this! Woodpeckers makes some great reference tools. Their T-Square is great also!

[Bruce Page]

I have the Veritas 50 inch aluminum straight edge. I consider it essential for equipment setups. Here is a link to it.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1

+1
I could not slip a .002 shim anywhere along its length using my milling machine's 48" table as a reference.
I also like that it will stand up by itself.

[Chris Padilla]

+1
I could not slip a .002 shim anywhere along its length using my milling machine's 48" table as a reference.
I also like that it will stand up by itself.


I have the Veritas 50 inch aluminum straight edge. I consider it essential for equipment setups. Here is a link to it.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1

I have this one hanging on a nail on the wall and go to it all the time. Good price, fairly light, and does a great job.

[Frederick Skelly]

I bought a Woodpecker precision strait edge with ruler. It was not cheap, but I love it and use it all the time. I keep it in the HD tube it arrived in.

http://www.woodpeck.com/serx36.html

Sure wish you hadnt given me that link. Now Im going to want one. Ive been trying to avoid the temptation of WP. Now, Im probably lost.
Fred

[Pat Houle]

I have this one hanging on a nail on the wall and go to it all the time. Good price, fairly light, and does a great job.

+1
I could not slip a .002 shim anywhere along its length using my milling machine's 48" table as a reference.
I also like that it will stand up by itself.


I have this one hanging on a nail on the wall and go to it all the time. Good price, fairly light, and does a great job.
I have the 50" aluminum as well...no complaints, I was able to adjust my tools to a whole new level, I got their feeler gauge set as well

[Al Launier]

A Starrett 48" steel scale. I've had this "straight edge" since 1968, 45 years!

[Art Mann]

Someone already said it but it is worth repeating. Whatever brand you choose, never use it for anything but a reference. Never let anyone else borrow it. Don't drop it or stress it in any way that would create the slightest bend. I was skeptical about aluminum, but I have taken good care of my Veritas and it is as accurate today as it was 10 years ago when I bought it.

[Phil Thien]

I use a box beam level, 6', made by Bostitch. I took feeler gauges to the store and tested a few of them (they had four in stock) and was satisfied that they were straight enough for any wood I do. I was just it last night to check work from my jointer. I only use it in the shop, never for any carpentry work.

[Jeff Duncan]

My favorite is a Starrett #380 4' straight edge. It wasn't cheap, but then again neither is the equipment I use it to set up:rolleyes:

My most often used straight edge is a 1" x 4" x 8' aluminum rectangular tube. Significantly cheaper than the Starrett and it can withstand day to day use and abuse without worry. It's not as accurate as a precision straight edge, but it's plenty accurate for what I need it for;)

JeffD

[Aleks Hunter]

Eurekazone extruded tracks, hands down. Have three of them and have laid them across granite countertops and the deflection is almost nonexistent. barely a sliver of light comes through. They're straight as I need and the fact that they guide circ saw and router is nothing but a plus. If you can mark a line, you can split it with the saw.

[Jan Smith]

Reviving an old post since I am in the market for one.

Did the recommendations for the ones in the posts changed
and are there new options to consider?

Thank you.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have a 36" Woodpeckers Straight Edge/Ruler. It currently sells for $66 (or a 24" version for $50). I don't know the specs on it but as far as I can determine it is a very precise and accurate straight edge as well as a ruler. I have never had a problem with the result when I've used it as a straight edge or ruler.

[Mark Daily]

I have been using this for awhile and it works fine for tool setup, etc. I can’t verify its accuracy but tool set up results are fine for woodworking.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Aluminum-Straight-Edge-Guaranteed-Straight-to-Within-005-50-SE50/151867626327?hash=item235c041357:g:Em8AAOSwo6lWMsG o

It is also available on Amazon at the same price.

[Jim Becker]

I have a full set of the steel rules/straight edges from Lee Valley plus a 40" one from Woodcraft that is similar. They all are dual Metric/Imperial which is important to my work since "my" work is all in metric now, but some client work isn't

[Matthew Curtis]

I just got a Lee Valley 50" straight edge. This is my first "real" straight edge. I am not sure how straight it truly is but it worked great to set my jointer.

[Jan Smith]

Thanks guys, I just wonder if a 36-40” is long enough to set up a
jointer.

[Matthew Curtis]

Thanks guys, I just wonder if a 36-40” is long enough to set up a
jointer.

That is plenty long enough

[Bob Jones 5443]

Starrett 385-24 is good enough for checking flat on my bench, and it helped me flatten my old Stanleys (5-1/2 and Bed Rock 607). I also use it to check boards after the jointer and/or the 607. I tried to pretend it was helping me adjust my jointer tables, but no amount of clever engineering seemed to be able to make that happen. I think I got close, though.

I made two support blocks to let the 385-24 stand on its bevel edge. The blocks are about 3” high, with a 3” wide face (perpendicular to the length of the straightedge) and about 1-1/2” thick. Each block has a slit part way up the middle of the face, just wide of the straightedge’s thickness. They have made using the edge hands-free.

I sat in wait for this $170 tool until I saw it pop up for $140, and I pounced.

[fritz eng]

I have this in 24" and 38" purchased through AMAZON.

POWERTEC 71115 Aluminum Straight Edge, 38" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QKS9K3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Randy Heinemann]

For me, the 36" WP seems to work fine for my long-bed 8" jointer, but it is newer and has not had time to have the table sag, if that ever happens. Sometimes it just depends on what gives you piece of mind; maybe longer is better for some. As long as my jointer is giving the results I expect, I believe the 36" is OK.

[lowell holmes]

Or a long carpenter's level will work, just saying.

[Jan Smith]

Or a long carpenter's level will work, just saying.
That is what I was thinking but according to the wood whisperer for setting up a jointer a level does not offer the needed accuracy.

[Dave Zellers]

That is what I was thinking but according to the wood whisperer for setting up a jointer a level does not offer the needed accuracy.
It does if it's straight.

One thing I discovered after I bought my 36" steel straight edge from Lee Valley was that all the cheap stuff that I had been using prior, was perfectly straight and capable. My 40 year old Craftsman 48" and 78" aluminum levels are straight.

[Doug Dawson]

My 40 year old Craftsman 48" and 78" aluminum levels are straight.

Maybe in zero gravity.

[lowell holmes]

Look here, you can pick one up today.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/straight%2520edge?NCNI-5

I have the Swanson.

[John McKissick]

I have a steel 24" straight edge that has a slight bow to it, and it's bugged me for 25 years. This is the type that's about 1/8" thick and one edge is beveled. I can get a "machinist's" version of the same thing, accurate to .001 over its length, from McMaster for about $115 or $64 without the bevel. I know that's overkill for woodworking, but reference tools should be dead on IMO.

A carpenter's square doesn't stand on edge, and plastic rules are too easily dinged. What do you guys use?

A happen to have 24" Starrett blade from a combo square for shorter needs. I also have an 8 foot Sta-bil(sp?) level for longer needs