Steam fix still is amazing every time I use it!

[Keith Hankins]

Well it happened again. Somehow while doing a dry clamp up of a cherry pie-safe build for someone, I managed to put a big nasty ding in the face frame. In my early years I' would have attempted to sand it out. I don't know who discovered this trick and my hat's off to him.

I used the steam trick to fix it. I put a damp wash cloth over it and put a steam iron over it for 20 seconds. Bam problem gone!

Only thing I have to remember is to put the wife's iron back exactly the way I found it or she will catch the fact I had it. And she knew what it was for. She came downstairs and said "you been using my iron in your shop again". I told her I knew nothing about that :)

http://flic.kr/p/hhFR5B

[Jeff Duncan]

Got to have a shop iron my friend....one of the cheapest tools you'll have in your shop and it'll keep the wife happy;)

JeffD

[David Hawkins]

If you are going to stain the piece the area that was steamed will likely stain darker, (same as water spots). I generally wipe the whole surface with a damp cloth and use a hair dryer to blow it dry then sand before I stain a steam repaired area to get an even color. Paint or clear is no problem.

[Mel Fulks]

I noticed the older irons get hotter ,buy one at a thrift shop or yard sale.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Heat Gun also works great.

[Dale Cruea]

For small dings I will use a solder iron.
40 watts works well.
I used the wife's iron one time and messed it up.
$80 for a new Iron.
I don't think they make the cheap simple ones anymore.
The poor wife had to go to a 2 day training class just to turn it on.

Dale

[Bill Rogers]

A similar solution is to apply Denatured Alcohol over the ding and to set a match to this. I know that this sounds counter-intuitive but if you do it safely, it is an alternative method. This isn't my creation, I saw it on Charles Neil's website.

[Curt Harms]

Got to have a shop iron my friend....one of the cheapest tools you'll have in your shop and it'll keep the wife happy;)

JeffD

Ohhh, yeah. If you have hard water, it'll clog up the steam ports. I have a messed up iron for just such purposes.

[Keith Hankins]

A similar solution is to apply Denatured Alcohol over the ding and to set a match to this. I know that this sounds counter-intuitive but if you do it safely, it is an alternative method. This isn't my creation, I saw it on Charles Neil's website.

Yep, used it but I found with cherry, it will slightly discolor the area requiring more sanding. I'm a subscriber to his show, love it.

[Pat Houle]

I hope I'm not highjacking your thread...
Did anyone have success steaming dents/marks in white cedar?

[Dave Cav]

Yeah, I have a Shop Iron (an old one my wife gave me), too. I have used the iron trick a number of times, and in fact are in the middle of a (months long) project to take most of our interior doors out to the shop one at a time, steam them to raise the dog toe nail scratches out of them, and then refinish them. I also have a Shop Sewing Machine, a $99 Singer I got years ago. I use it for apron repairs, straps, all kinds of odds and ends. Much easier to use than the wife's complicated machine, and not as likely to mess it up.

[Jacob Reverb]

FWIW, I've heard that the longer the dent is there, the harder it is to steam out...

[George Octon]

Do you run the iron with the steam on? I assume so.

Does it have to be on bare wood?

I would assume that too, but...

Has anyone done scratch type grooves, maybe 4" long?

[Jeff Duncan]

Do you run the iron with the steam on? I assume so.

Does it have to be on bare wood?

I would assume that too, but...

Has anyone done scratch type grooves, maybe 4" long?

You don't need the steam on. Put a little water in the area you want to raise and let it soak for a minute. Then put a cotton cloth over the area and wet it as well in the same spot. Then just apply the iron for a few seconds and it will create the steam. Let the area dry completely and inspect to see if it's raised enough. If not repeat. If it's good then finish sanding and apply your finish.

If there's finish over the dent I'd imagine that would impede the steam getting in. Not to mention you could possibly ruin the finish. Nor would you be able to sand out after. I haven't tried it to say with certainty, but I just don't see it as a practical thing to do so you may have to experiment.

As far as scratches no problem, you can do pretty much any length needed, you may just have to do multiple sections. However when you say grooves it becomes a question of how deep. There's a limit as to how much you'll get out with steam, I find once you've steamed an area 2-3 times that's about it. Then it's time to explore other options.

good luck,
JeffD

[Bernie LeBlanc]

I agree with Jeff about the steaming method and yes - finished wood will not soak in anything.

But for grooves and scratches, no steam or any moister will help because by scratching, a sharp object is removing material to create a void. Dent are from blunt objects compressing the wood. What do you mean by groove? Is it a long scratch or long dent? It's the nature of the defect that dictates the remedy. As for scratches, they need to be filled with putty, wood and glue mixture, or even a melting stick. The melt stick works on finished furniture if you get the correct match. I have a set with about 60 shades to match most woods and finishes.

[Ron Tancrede]

A gallon of denature water off the grocery shelf will cure the clog problem and will last you your working years in the shop.