View Full Version : Sand blasting glass set up.

Joe Hillmann
11-04-2013, 9:58 AM
Usually when I do glass I do it in the laser unless it is too large a piece to fit in the laser. then I use the laser to cut a stencil and then sand blast. For those of you who do sandblasting on glassware, how do you do it? By that I mean, how do you make the stencil, what do you use for a stencil and what size and type of grit do you use.

Due to a water leak in a wall I had to take down my old, difficult to use, sandblasting booth and am thinking of setting up something a bit nicer and while I am at it I may make it easier to do small items as well.

gary l roberts
11-04-2013, 10:27 AM
http://azglassclasses.com - lots of data here.... sign up and get access to training, setup designs etc.

Chuck Stone
11-04-2013, 12:09 PM
if I'm doing a one-off, I'll use the transfer tape covered by Duck HP260. That's the only clear tape
I've found that holds up against Black Beauty and 125PSI sandblasting. I use that on granite plaques
for sandblasting.
If I need to re-use the mask, I've been getting 1/64" Delrin sheets and covering with a polyester/
rubber sheet, also 1/64" (Can't find the name of it right now, but I'll look) I use double sided
SpeedTape to bind those. When done, it is thin enough to wrap around glass, yet holds up to the
blasting over and over. I can get 100 to 150 pieces before I need to make another one.
For glass, I like 220 grit aluminum oxide.

Joe Hillmann
11-04-2013, 12:25 PM
Do you cut the masks on the laser or use some type of photo process?

Braden Todd
11-04-2013, 7:23 PM
I use washout mask from rayzist as well as photobrasive, both have strengths that I use for my work on glass and stone.

They are both exposed by uv light and then washed out, then placed on your piece.

For blasting I have 2 cabinets, one from each company mentioned above. I found great deals on these on cl and saved thousands by buying used. When I buy sand I buy 180 grit aluminum oxide, I do like 220 but as much as I use my sand its there fast enough and then out my vacuum system even faster.

If you want to do larger pieces, a plotter cutter and paint mask will do the trick. If you really want to go deep and do multi stage blasting I recommend the vinyl from Hartco, 9 or 10 mil I forget the exact mil but that'll do the trick.

And laser tape from photobrasive is a great way to use your laser to make the mask. I am still amazed at the detail I can achieve with it!

hope this helps some, good luck!

Ross Moshinsky
11-04-2013, 8:23 PM
This is what I've learned from sandblasting.

1. Buy the right printer. If you can't print a true black, you're fighting a losing battle. My experience is a laser printer is not the right tool for the job and you want an inkjet. Epson Artisan 1430 is a highly recommended printer. Also buy the right transparent paper. It makes a difference.
2. If you're not used to laying down vinyl/masks, it will take a reasonable amount of time to get used to putting the masks down. This is the most difficult part of the job when starting out, hands down. Blasting is relatively easy. Laying down the mask straight, with no bubbles, in the right position is the whole job.
3. Although nice cabinets have their benefits, you can "cheap out" on the cabinet and still produce nice work. Just make sure you keep moisture out of your media.

I have no experience with the washout variety resist. I've used Ikonic's stuff which is expose and blast. I liked the 4mil stuff the best. None of it is especially cheap. The resist is about $10 a sheet and the transparent paper is about $1 a sheet.