Proper blade for Rikon 14" Deluxe to resaw green oak log??

[George Farra]

Hi All

A few weeks ago I had 2 red oak trees removed due to heart rot. I managed to keep 2 sections that were clear of any rot. They are both about 36" in diameter and approx 32" long.

I cut them into quarters with a chainsaw and was planning on sawing boards with my band saw. I have a Rikon 14" Deluxe (1.5hp) which has enough height to resaw into boards.

Before I attempt this........

1) Which blade should I purchase? Wood is pretty wet (green)
2) Any clever ideas regarding material handling? Even in quarters each piece is pretty heavy.

My plan was to saw a face flip the log and saw the opposing face so that I can yield mostly straight grained boards.

TIA

George

[Kurt Cady]

At only 32" long I would just split the wood. You'll get a bit less yield, but it will be straight grained

[Mike Cutler]

2-3 TPI, 1/2" Lennox Bi-metal. Timberwolf has a more specialized blade for re-sawing green wood also.
Be prepared to really clean that saw once you're done. Everything will be wet, and have wet wood and bark stuck to it. Wax the snot out of that table before you start.

[Aleks Hunter]

Build a sled out of plywood with a 3/8/ x 3/4 strip for the miter slot. Wax it and the saw table, then wax them both again so you're not fighting friction. You're right about making a cut, flipping the log onto the just cut face every time. you'll get a few quarter sawn boards that way, as the log gets smaller you'll be into rift sawn which is GREAT for making table legs. Be sure to get a blade designed for green hardwood and think about blade lubrication with a 1.5hp motor if its going to be cutting through a foot of red oak, its going to need all the help it can get.

[Al Weber]

I've used the Timberwolf blade they make for green wood and it works well. As Aleks stated, build a sled that allows you to hold the log stationary while you mill it or if you have a couple of straight and flat surfaces from the quartering process, just run them against a fence or pivot point.

[Myk Rian]

Being the owner of a 14" saw, I really doubt you'll be very successful.
A 20" saw would be a better choice.

[George Farra]

Thank you all for the advise & tips. I am now weighing the difference between buying the appropriate blade and building infeed/outfeed supports versus using the appropriate tool to cleave the wedges into boards.

[Curt Harms]

There are blades especially for green wood. I think they have greater set than normal and may have other characteristics as well. Turners use 'em, here is Highland Woodworking's version:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

[Gus Dundon]

I think an alternate set band saw blade with raker tooth pattern can cut nicely on greeen wood. There are blades from
Timber for green wood but it dulls quickly. Lesser tooth pitch works well .

[George Farra]

Thanks guys. I did purchase Highland's blade. I also purchased a shingle froe as a back-up. Awaiting thier arrival

George