Grinder gloat!

[Frederick Ieppert]

Just scored a Baldor 8100WD (8" 1800RPM) bench grinder for the 1 time only get it while you can low price of FREE! I also got a new Norton 100 grit general purpose AO (brown) wheel. Is this something that I can use for my turning tools? I plan to get a 180 grit CBN wheel for the grinder very soon but was wondering if the free 1 is something that I can use short term? When I order the CBN from D-Way should I think about the radius edged wheel? I just love high quality FREE stuff.

[charlie knighton]

where do you stand in line and what do you have to do to get the free stuff?

[Sid Matheny]

I could go for one of those free ones myself! :cool:


Sid

[Steve Doerr]

Great score on the grind. For what you saved on this grinder, I would suggest that you invest in a CBN wheel from D-Way Tools. I don't think you will be disappointed.
Steve

[Reed Gray]

You will need a few extra things for the grinder. It is difficult to mount a wolverine system under them, but it can be done. Mostly they sit higher than the other grinders, about 1 1/2 inches. The wheel guards can be rotated very slightly to get the wolverine platform under them. One turner mounted his grinder at an angle. Also, you will need spacers on the arbor shaft, which is 3/4 inch diameter and very long. There is a tiny pin in the shaft. It is for the flanges that are made for standard grinding wheels. They have a slot that fits over the pin. I could not find a way to remove the pin without grinding it off. I had a machine shop make me two washers/spacers about 1 1/2 inch diameter and 5/8 inch thick. I tried a bunch of the stamped washers from the big box store, and the wheels would wobble till they got up to full speed. Then they seemed to run pretty true, but with the machined washer/spacer, no wobble problems at all. If you don't have the spacers, the nut will not go down far enough to secure the wheel. I used a jig saw with a metal blade to cut a slot for the shaft pin. You will never have to bolt this grinder down. It just purrs when you turn it on.

robo hippy

[Frederick Ieppert]

We got a new one at work so I was able to get our old 1, turns out it just needed a new switch! I will be installing a Wolverine type setup on it. I'm a welder and fabricator by trade so I fabricated my own. I have access to our machine shop and we trade g jobs back and forth often so any spacers will not be a problem. I have seen where some people remove the guards but I'm not sure that I want to do that. I do plan on getting a CBN wheel from D Way, I will start with the 180 grit and then add the 180 later. Any suggestions on getting the radius edge wheel or stay with the regular? This site is awesome! I have a long way to go but this site has helped tremendously! Thank you!

[Reed Gray]

You can remove the outside guard. The inside guard is part of the seal for the motor shaft and bearings, well, anyway it is all greased up on the inside (I am not a machinist). This is not a safety concern with the CBN wheels as they are solid metal, and will not explode.

I have a set of the radius edged wheels, and not sure if I am sold on them or not. The best use for the radius edge would be in sharpening hollowing bits. These are done in a jig most of the time, and with the jig, if you rotate it on a platform, the corners of the jig can run into a straight wheel. With the radius edge, you round the nose a bit and then push the cutter around the radius edge. I first saw John Lucas do this on a standard wheel. I don't do much hollowing. With standard scrapers, I am not sure it would have any real advantages, but I need to mount them and try them out. I do love the 1 1/2 inch width. Never run off the edge of the wheel while sharpening gouges any more.

robo hippy