Depth of Bosch Dual-Bevel Glide Miter Saw?

[Michael Heffernan]

My Dewalt 12" compound miter saw bit the dust today. Sounds like the gear in the blade housing sheared. It's given me 12 years of heavy use, so it's time to move on.
I pulled the trigger on the new Bosch Dual-Bevel Glide miter saw (GCM12SD). It arrives on Monday.
I'm looking for the depth measurment for mounting the saw in my miter station in the shop. How close to the wall can you mount it, and how far out does it protrude from the wall when mounted?
I want to get a jump on getting the station ready for the saw. Hopefully it will fit where my old Dewalt resided.

[Art Mann]

Sorry I can't help.

Please be so kind as to post a review of this saw when you have used it for a while. I would like to know if it performs well enough to build furniture. I have had several miter saws that worked well for finish carpentry but didn't cut it for furniture making (lame pun intended). Blade vibration is always a problem that keeps the face of the cut from being perfectly flat. I now use a sled on my table saw for ultra accurate cross cuts but it is a lot of trouble to go back and forth between ripping and cross cutting configurations. I am looking for an alternative. Your experience would be valuable to me and probably some other folks as well. Thanks.

[Robert Chapman]

Check the Bosch website and I'm sure that you can get this dimension. My guess is that you will be able to get it much closer than the Dewalt. I have the Bosch and really like it as a miter saw.

[Robert Chapman]

My experience with the new Bosch is that it cuts miters and crosscuts very accurately. I replaced the stock blade with a Forrest blade which gives very smooth, flat cuts.

[Mike Cashman]

Hi Michael - Did you figure out the depth you needed for the Bosch dual glide?
I've got the same saw last fall and it's been sitting on an old desk in the basement since I got it out of the box. Came to SMC to get some ideas to build a work station and came across this thread. The desk itself is of course 30" deep and the saw is set back about 5" or 6" from the front edge of the desk to the C/L of the front mounting holes, this depth has worked fine thus far but curious to know what you ended up at and why. And any other unique or interesting design elements you may have incorporated into your saw station.

[David Hawxhurst]

it does not need any depth behind it as nothing moves back past the knuckle thing (the silver part behind the bevel angle gauge).

[Don Sundberg]

Hopped up and measured mine since it is still set up in the living room.

13-1/8" from the rear of the vertical post to the front of the fence. I would leave a little more to allow it to rotate to miter.

Don

[eugene thomas]

I put mine in same spot as my old 12" non slider.

[Steve Peterson]

it does not need any depth behind it as nothing moves back past the knuckle thing (the silver part behind the bevel angle gauge).

This is true for square cuts, but you do need a few inches to be able to rotate the head. It takes even more to be able to rotate through all combinations of compound cuts.

I built my workbench just wide enough to fit the saw with the head rotated. I mounted it on a piece of melamine that I can slide forward if I ever need to do a compound cut.

I think a minimum depth of around 30" would work with the front knob sticking out slightly. Set the saw against the wall and move the head through all possible positions to determine the distance that you need.

Steve