Turning Pine logs

[Brian Beam]

I have a tree that got uprooted in hurricane sandy last year. The tree was still alive as it only went over a little bit on to another tree. The home I live in was my in laws home so this tree was planted by my father in law many years ago. My children had an attachment t to the tree.

So with all that said I finally got it cut down and I have a bunch of logs that I thought I might turn something for each of my kids. So they are green pine logs I am not sure of the best procedure to go with for the best possible outcome. Thanks

[curtis rosche]

Best would probably be to avoid them so you and your shop, and tools, and every possible surface doesn't get covered in sap and become sticky. or let them dry a few years atleast

[Doug Herzberg]

Not all pines are sappy in that annoying way. I've been turning Ponderosa and some other pines for awhile now. It's been a great practice wood for me, if nothing else. If your experience is like mine, you will want to rough out the blanks and control the drying as soon as possible. I use a homemade refrigerator kiln. Checking is a serious problem in whole logs and turning blanks. You could also turn green to finish. Tearout is an issue as well. For me, it was an opportunity to improve my shear cuts, but if that fails, it is so soft you can sand out many of the imperfections. Enjoy. I'm sure the kids will appreciate your efforts. Your shop will smell great.

[Thomas Canfield]

Pine turned endgrain and thin hollow forms, vases, etc can be made almost translucent by soaking in a thinned Danish Oil solution. Turning endgrain will also reduce the sap slinging done when turning cross grain for bowls. You can also apply liberal coats of the solution and wrap with damp towels in a plastic bag to simulate the soaking, and then remove and dry. The soaking usually is done for several days. Dead pine usually will have less sap problem, but green will sling a lot of sap. Have your shower curtains ready to protect you other shop equipment and some mineral spirits hand to clean your lathe and tools.

[robert baccus]

Like Doug related, there are 2 dozen species of pine in the U.S. and many exotics planted. Do you have any way of identifying the type.

[Ronald Campbell]

I have recently been turning some Scotch Pine as the tree was given to me. This species is not that sticky and has some great color. The wood is a medium soft color with some blue in it. Yes there is tear out and I leave it a little thicker so I can sand it back.

[Royce Wallace]

I'm just finishing an large vase from pine from my home--killed by drought. Good experice with a 1/4 inch wall--have no fear--just do it--Royce Wallace

[Brian Kent]

I am trying to find or remember a post about kiln drying or drying for a summer under black plastic to heat up and set the sap. Or maybe that was a dream.

[Jim Underwood]

I seem to remember that too...

[Jessica Gothie]

We had some spruce (generic native-to-PA spruce, not colorado blue, not eastern hemlock) that came down this year and I threw a hunk of it on the lathe. Turned nice, had big pretty rings (so was interesting). There was some sap, but not hideous and I don't wear my Sunday best to the lathe anyway. Smelled like xmas in there when I was done. :) It was slightly sticky, but not overwhelming. I found the wood soft and prone to tearout, though. I've got some more things I want to do with it, so haven't given up yet. I'd say give it a try (not a huge piece) and see how it goes.

[Paul Engle]

Cut 'em to length and seal up the ends and let sit over winter ...or rough them out , then pack in the shavings in paperbag and let set 30 -60 days and finish. The sap will make your shop smell very nice for a while anyway , or again rough out and soak in denatured alcohol until they shed the water , up to 30 days maybe , not sure as it has been a while since i have soaked blanks.

[robert baccus]

Try just drying the log sections--covered--for a good while and trimming both ends off. That's where the sap migrates to usually.