Is G0513x2 vs G0513 worth the 300$ price differance?

[Cory Fletcher]

I am looking for a good band saw to add to the shop. I am looking at the 17" saws from Grizzly. I am wandering what others think about the saws. They seem to get good marks in general, but I don't know if the cast iron wheels and trunnion with the larger table justify the extra 300$. This is just a hobby and yes I do plan on resawing with it. Thoughts? Thanks. Cory

[Marty Tippin]

Not a direct answer to your question, but I've got the G0513ANV "30th Anniversary Edition" and am very happy with it, though I've only had it a few months and haven't done any serious resawing with it yet. I put one of their rolling bases under it and I can move it where I want. And it's cheaper by $200 than the G0513.

As far as I can tell, the only differences between the G0513 (which is identical to the G0513ANV except for color) and the G0513X2 are the cast iron wheels, resaw fence, cast iron vs steel trunnion and ball-bearing guide rollers vs "euro style" guides.

The resaw fence and trunnion upgrade sell for about $210, so I could add both of those to my G0513ANV and have almost the same saw as the G0513X2 for the same price as the G0513...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Cory,

Which flavor of GO513X2 are you looking at?

It really depends on what is important to you as an individual.

For example, a lot folks will state that a foot brake isn't important to them personally. On the other hand, I am glad I have on on my MM-16. It's a matter of personal preference and there is no right or wrong.

In fact, bandsaws were made for decades without any type of brake.

In theory, having greater mass should result in less vibration and better cuts. Often theory and reality don't agree. It becomes a matter of personal preference and once again there is no right or wrong.

[Mike Goetzke]

I bought the G0513x a couple years ago. There was a post back then listing the differences between the G0513 and G0513x and as I recall besides what you have listed the "x" model also had roller guides making it well worth the price difference. I previously had a Delta 14" BS and it stopped pretty quickly so I didn't think a brake was necessary. Was I wrong - this thing takes forever to coast down. I see some have a scrap piece of wood near by to slow the blade down.

Mike

[Tai Fu]

My 18" bandsaw takes forever to coast down. In fact I can actually make several cuts through a 2x4 on the coasting energy alone!

[Guy Belleman]

In answer to the original question: Yes. The better features make it worth the cost. Suggest getting it, don't look back, and get on using the tool.

[John Coloccia]

In answer to the original question: Yes. The better features make it worth the cost. Suggest getting it, don't look back, and get on using the tool.

What he said. The "X" saws are pretty nice. The regular 513/514 are just kind of meh...not terrible, not great. Tai is right about the spin down, though. When you start getting into larger saws, it can take forever to spin down. Having some sort of brake is very convenient. I wouldn't buy any saw over 14" without a brake.

[Gary Pennington]

I have the 513X2--takes almost 30 sec to spin down. If I had it to do over I'd get the X2B with the electric brake, that would be money well spent. Otherwise I love the saw.g

[glenn bradley]

I also have the "tweener" G0513X (pre X2). This saw is identical to the X2 but, does not have the cast iron trunnions. The CI trunnions are available for about $100 but, after years of use I have never felt the need to upgrade. The G0513X was replaced by the X2 when reviewers cried out for CI trunnions. Good of Grizzly to respond to their market.

To your question, I would spend the $300. It will average out to less than a cup of coffee a day over the first year and you get to reap the benefits for life. Roller guides, CI wheels and trunnions? Yep, I'd spend the money.

[Cory Fletcher]

Thanks for the replies. What I am looking at is the G0513ANV ($894.00) the G0513X2 ($1,194.00) and G0513X2BF ($1,394.00). Those prices include shipping. The X2 would be a stretch on the budget, but the X2BF would be out of reach for now. If I got the ANV one I would be able to get a couple of blades too. That brings up another question what kind of blades would you guys recommend? Timberwolf? Thanks

[Tai Fu]

What do you want to do? What kind of blades depends on what you are doing. For resawing I'd recommend skipping timberwolf altogether. Go with Resaw King or Woodmaster CT, or the equivalent carbon steel/bimetal blade (Woodmaster C/B). For everything else get bimetal blades in various widths, unless you are doing scroll cutting with 1/8" blades, then go with carbon steel. Timberwolf is just a pricier version of carbon steel blade that doesn't last longer than carbon steel, and bimetal will last 5 times longer than carbon steel.

[Cory Fletcher]

As for what I want to do. I want to be able to resaw 8"quarter sawn cherry and be able to ripsome of the thicker hard woods the my little contractor saw just does not have the horse power to cut. I looked up the Resaw King blades and wow they are proud of them (>$200). They sound great from the reviews but... wow.

[Earl McLain]

I've been using the Woodslicer and i'm very pleased with it--resaw 12" poplar with relative ease. Have only done a few small pieces of cherry since I got that blade, but it was good on the little stuff. My experience on this topic may not be a good indicator as I was not using decent blades to start with!!

[Tai Fu]

Woodslicer doesn't have good life. Those blades are meant to be replaced very often, for resawing very expensive wood (like Brazilian rosewood) where maximum yield means more than changing blades every 2 cuts.

[Richard Coers]

I bought a G0514X2 so I could get the cast iron wheels. They were horrible. The spokes in the bottom wheel were not the same thickness across the wheel. There was not enough cast iron in the faces of the rim, so it was not machined all around. There were 9 balance holes drilled in the back, on one side of the wheel, and 4 steel plates riveted to the side of the rim on the other side in an attempt to balance it. They were not successful. Nothing would stay on the table with the saw running it was so far out of balance. I sent the machine back after replacing the bottom wheel, because the top wheel was nearly as bad. So I would definitely not spend the extra for cast iron wheels.

[Nick Spencer-Berger]

I picked up a G0513X2 at the Grizzly tent sale and it is an amazing saw. The top cover is a little dented and there are a few scratches on it, but it was essentially set up perfectly when I got it set up at my house despite looking like it took a direct hit from a forklift. I got a woodslicer blade for it and haven't looked back. The cut is so smooth that I hardly have to sand the cuts afterwards. I upgraded from a 14" delta and I really feel the additional mass of the cast iron wheels helps keep the blade moving smoothly when resawing wide hard boards. It was one of the greatest investments I have made in my shop. I wish it had the brake, but I really don't miss it that much. I don't have any problems letting it spool down after I make a cut.

[John Coloccia]

I bought a G0514X2 so I could get the cast iron wheels. They were horrible. The spokes in the bottom wheel were not the same thickness across the wheel. There was not enough cast iron in the faces of the rim, so it was not machined all around. There were 9 balance holes drilled in the back, on one side of the wheel, and 4 steel plates riveted to the side of the rim on the other side in an attempt to balance it. They were not successful. Nothing would stay on the table with the saw running it was so far out of balance. I sent the machine back after replacing the bottom wheel, because the top wheel was nearly as bad. So I would definitely not spend the extra for cast iron wheels.

FWIW, my 514X2 can balance a nickel through startup and shutdown, and my wheels only have a handful of balancing holes drilled in them. You know, it really drives me nuts sometimes why a manufacturer, who certainly knows better, lets junk like this out the door.

[Guy Belleman]

I am very fond of the Wood Slicer blades. The blades last me a long time and service is quick. There are several other good ones available.

[Prashun Patel]

I went through the same thoughts when considering my G0514x2 purchase.

I would not count larger table size or cast iron parts as bells-and-whistles. They make a difference when cutting heavy or thick or green things.

Get the biggest, most powerful saw you can afford.

[Scott T Smith]

I've had an 0513x2B for four years and love it! Smooth, accurate, the brake works great - there is nothing that I would ask to be improved on this saw.

Occasionally a tool company brings out a tool that is a winner across the board. For me, the 0513X2B is one.

[Cory Fletcher]

Well, I pulled the trigger on the G0513X2 with the mobile base. Now I have to find a blade or two. I know the resaw king gets top marks for resawing but 200 plus for a blade is out of reach. Somebody brought up the wood slicer blades, thoughts? Thanks

[Terry Beadle]

Speaking of Wood slicer blades, I've found that using a dremel type tool ( I have the $25 Black n Decker ) to touch up the teeth makes the blade last a very long time.
I've been getting excellent results and about 3 ~ 4 resharpenings per blade. The blade in my shop lasts about a year between sharpenings. Now that's some savings IMO.

It takes me about 15 min or less to touch up a blade.