Neandernewbie blade angle question

[Nick Mitchell]

Hi guys,
this is my first post down here and I must admit to being a devout powertool guy.
I use chisels a block plane and card scrapers but I have no other planes. :o

Anyway, I'm off to the Valley today to pick up the LA Jack plane, the 62 1/2 I think they call it. I see it comes with a 25 degree blade but also offer a 38 and a 50 degree.

I need the Jack to be a good all-rounder but I also want it to be more than capable on wild grain like birds-eye etc.

Is it worthwhile to get the 50 degree blade as well or should I just wait and get the bevel-up smoother for tricky grain?

So what do you think? The LA Jack with a 38 degree for a quality all-rounder?

Thanks very much for your time and my apologies if this topic has been covered before.

Nick

[Roy Wall]

Nick,

I am no expert at all - but will reply:

I think you should stay with a 25* bevel for the first blade - it is a tried and true angle for shooting end grain and will also handle edge and softer face grain.

I am seriously considering a toothed blade and 38* for my LN 62. I have been told by "an expert" these are viable and good alternatives for LA Jacks. Toothed blades can make it work somewhat like a scrub, and the higher angles WILL smooth tough, hard woods like BE maple, etc...

SO my final vote - get the 25* and add the 38*...that's a cheap investment and may allow your LA Jack to do many tasks.....

I personally think the LA Jack is the "one" plane to have.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Nick

Get the extra 50 degree blade with the #62-1/2 (to go with the 25 degree). The new smoother comes standard with the 38 degree blade. All blades are interchangeable, so this will give you the full set. On really cranky interlinked grain, a cutting angle of 62 degrees (12 degree bed + 50 degree bevel) is going to be superb!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Roy Wall]

Hi Nick

Get the extra 50 degree blade with the #62-1/2 (to go with the 25 degree). The new smoother comes standard with the 38 degree blade. All blades are interchangeable, so this will give you the full set. On really cranky interlinked grain, a cutting angle of 62 degrees (12 degree bed + 50 degree bevel) is going to be superb!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Here ya go.........I knew an expert would chime in. :D :D

Yeah.......if the new smoother has 38* standard....this is the ticket!

[Tim Sproul]

I have not tried the HA blade on figured woods. I turn to my Knight planes with 50 degree beds.....those have thus far tackled curl, tiger, birdseye.

[Nick Mitchell]

thank you gentlemen for your input.

As it turned out my decision was made for me. I had decided on getting the 50* for the very reason that Derek stated. However, they were out of stock of the 50* blade so I just got the Jack and the standard 25*. I'll grab the 50 when I get the bevel up smoother when it becomes available.

I then went straight to the shop to give it a test run. After some very minor adjustments I tried it out on some scrap pine, oak and maple. I'll just say "wow"!
Now I feel like a proper fool for waiting so long to get a quality Jack. I'm going to be using this a lot, I can see that already.

Thanks again

Nick

p.s. I'd post a pick, but you all know what it looks like :)

[Steve Kubien]

Sounds like we got another one, hook, line and sinker! Don't worry, the hooks are barbless but the slope is slippery!

Enjoy,

Steve Kubien
Ajax, Ontario

[Gene Collison]

I have that plane and the 25 and 38 degree blades. I use the 38 more often than the LA one. In fact I have the 50 degree on the way along with the new Bevel up smoother. If you want to do end grain you will want the 25 degree blade. If you have sufficient funds, I would get the 25 and 38. If you want to do woods that are tearout prone, you may want the 50 degree as well. Enjoy it, I love mine.

Gene