Dust collection with Rikon 18" band saw

[Doug Herzberg]

The upper dust port of my band saw often gets plugged up with the long, stringy slivers of wood that come from cutting a green log on end. The 4" port is blocked by a steel cross. I assume Rikon installed this to keep these strings from causing a blockage further downstream, where it might be even less convenient to clean out.

I'm pretty sure I read here that some people have removed the steel cross. How has this worked out for you?

I just finished redoing the ducts to the saw. Right now, I have the two ports connected to a wye, which goes into another 4" duct back to the main 6" trunk. I realize the two 4" ports should join into a larger duct or go separately back to the trunk, but what is is for now. I did a test on a log that has been sitting around for about a year and checked for blockages and all was good. I'm pretty sure, though, that the first green log I slice up will have me on my knees pulling out the bird's nest under the lower guide.

Thanks for any guidance.

[Mike Peace]

I have the Rikon 10-345 18" purchased new last November. I checked and neither of my two outlets have the crosspiece. Perhaps you have an older model and they decided they weren't necessary? I have my ducts set up just like yours except my main is only 4" as well. When I cut a lot of green wood (Bradford pear is the worst) I have to stop and clean out. I believe the problem is the "dust" is just too wet and can't get sucked out adequately.

My biggest issue is the residue that cakes and dries on the blade. It is very hard to remove.

[John Keeton]

Doug, I moved your thread to give you a broader audience.

[Harry Robinette]

Doug
I've had my 18" Rikon for 2 years set up on 4"flex to Y to 4" flex to 4" steel tube 1200cfm Delta run on 220v and I haven't had any problems. Oh ya mine has no shields over the vac openings. The only thing that's at the top port is the piece that cleans the stuff off the blade and sorta directs the dust. I try to not rip with the wood standing up but on a sorta slide two 90* wood L's with a stop on the back side one on each side of the round,hold them together with the wood inside and split the wood that way. The string's you get are usually shorter and you finger's are further away from the blade. Just my way.
I also took the front guide cover off and have a 2.5" hose from there to a 2.5"x 4" Y on the top port.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Doug,I did remove the cross bars from my 14 pm,they were actually harder than I expected drilled out what I could and bashed the rest off with a hammer.I didn't have any problems with clogging after that.But I do have a short run of 4 inch till it hits the 6 inch pipe. Andrew

[Loren Woirhaye]

I would not hesitate to remove the obstruction.

How much CFM do you have?

If you are running 4" or larger duct and you have decent CFM at the band saw
you shouldn't have a lot of problems with blockages. The more flexible hoses
are more prone to blockages though.

[Doug Herzberg]

How much CFM do you have?


Not enough, Loren. It's a work in progress - I'm setting up a separate room for the DC. Right now, the only thing powering the system is a 2 HP HF unit. They say 1550, but I think they figure it differently. Certainly not that at the machine. I did reduce the flex hose to a minimum and I think that helped. If I ever decide I don't need to move the BS, I can eliminate it altogether.

Andrew, they look pretty substantial in mine, too.

Harry, mine is the same, except it's metal from the wye on. I used furnace ducts, not the expensive stuff, but I did tape the joints and seams. Need to get some mastic for the take offs and it will be tight.

Thanks for all the advice.