Pratt&Lambert#38 over Deftoil oil/varnish mix?

[Elsie Begler]

Hi. As my first ever furniture refinishing project, I just refinished an old teak dinning table (top only) with Deftoil Danish Oil Finish - It looks great, but took less than a month to discover that this just is not providing the protection needed given the use this table gets. (It's our primary eating table, all meals.) I'm thinking of adding several coats of Pratt&Lambert #38 thinned to a wiping varnish for some extra protection against liquids. I've got several questions.

1) Bob Flexner (Understanding Wood Finishing) says "Recoating can be done with the same finish you used originally or with any other brand or type of finish as long as the original is fully cured. You can even use a wiping varnish over one of the oils, or one of the oils over a wiping varnish." (p.83) However, the Pratt & Lambert Product Data Sheet for #38 says "Previously painted or varnished wood cannot be stained unless the old finish is completely removed down to the bare wood." Since #38 is a "clear alkyd gloss varnish" and not a stain, is this superfluous information? Is it ok to use this product over the cured Deft Danish Oil (a varnish/oil mix.)

2) My understanding is that varnish (when applied in sufficient number of coats) establishes a film on top of the wood. If this is the case, how would a subsequent coat of oil (or an oil/varnish mix) permeate a cured varnish finish (as Flexner states)?

3) I don't want to drastically changing the current look achieved with the Deftoil. I'm choosing the P&L#38 based on what I've read about it being clear, providing relatively good protection again water and water vapor, and relatively non-yellowing. I'm not planing on putting it on very thick (maybe just 3-4 thin coats?), but it is a gloss finish (I've read that the satin finish produces a more cloudy effect.) Can I rub down the final coat with 1000 steel wool to produce a lower sheen finish?

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

You can certainly apply a film finish like the P&L #38 over the Danish Oil (should be cured first). If you wipe, you'll need about three wiped coats to equal one brushed coat and it's not unusual to apply up to 12 wiped coats on a table like that. (And no, you will not be able to apply an oil product over varnish and expect it to migrate into the wood. The varnish seals the wood) You can certainly rub out the varnish to get a sheen to your liking.

[Bill Neely]

I would start with something much finer than 1000 steel wool to knock the sheen back, it will give you a very dull finish. Maybe just use a rubbing compound or rottenstone and work downward until you reach a sheen you like.

[Elsie Begler]

Thanks! I don't know what a rottenstone is, but I'm sure I can learn on google. Are there any differences in brands/types of rubbing compounds? (I'm a total newbie here!)

[Bill Neely]

For rubbing compounds the auto parts stores are your friend - they'd be able to advise you much better than I could.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Is it ok to use this product over the cured Deft Danish Oil (a varnish/oil mix

Yes, as long as the Deftoil has dried for 2-3 weeks.

>>>> how would a subsequent coat of oil (or an oil/varnish mix) permeate a cured varnish finish

It won't. Once a varnish or an thinned varnish has cured, it forms and impermeable film.

You should have no problems overcoating your cured Deftoil finish. Just wipe the surface down with mineral spirits to clean it well. Then after the mineral spirits has fully evaporated, scuff sand the surface with 320 sandpaper to create a surface to which the varnish will adhere, vacuum off the dust and apply a couple of coats of the P&L#38.