Working with a marking tool

[Andy Blake]

I've started into another small beginner's project - a sawbench ala Chris Schwarz. For the legs I went with 5/4 x 6 common pine that I cut into 24" lengths, surface planed, ripped down the middle, laminated and am now planing square. 2 1/2 x 2 actually, but squaring the faces.

I find that when using my marking tool to scribe a rip line or a plane-to line, it is very grabby on the wood I'm working with. It tears out chunks along the way and frequently strays from the intended path. It is probably designed more for use in marking mortise and tenon lines and maybe scribing long lines is not its best application. But I'm wondering if I should sharpen the points. I've only been using the single point so far and it does have a bit of a flat top to it, as do the double points on the opposite side. Is this something I should address with a file? I've been meaning to get some diamond files to sharpen up my razor knife, so maybe this will be further incentive.

Here's what the tool points look like:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk154/IIocust/marktool60_57_zps4ee5f200.jpg

Thanks,
Andy

[Gordon Eyre]

First of all, do sharpen the points. Second, roll the marker a bit to the side so that the points are not straight up and down. That said, the reason why wheel markers have become so popular is for the very reason you have detailed. They cut the fibers of the wood and make the line finer and do not gouge out any of the fibers. You can make what you have do as hundreds of us have. Just practice your technique and keep the points sharp.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Sharpen the points like a right angled triangle and then position the bevel side towards the waste part of your cut.. This will give you the most accuracy.

When marking with the grain (not cross grain), it helps to take multiple light strokes instead of one heavy cut.

[Jim Koepke]

Sharpening the pins will help to eliminate the grabbiness and straying.

For my pin gauges I tend toward a flat on one side and the side toward the fence left rounded. It seems to help eliminate the wandering.

jtk

[Jim Ritter]

I have what looks like the same gauge and the pins have been sharpened to little nubs that barely work. Any advise on replacing them. They are too short to grab. Not too off thread, just the dangers of over sharpening.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

Andy, those pins are a sad excuse for a cutter. I am not surprised that you are struggling!

This is what you need to aim for ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CuttingGauges_html_54f84c56.jpg

You can shape the pins into knives with a small grinder (such as a Dremel), or the side of a grinder wheel, or even a file (depending on how hard the pins are). Or replace the pins with ones ground from HSS drill bits (then you do not have to watch for over heating when grinding).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Matthew Hills]

In addition to sharpening and tilting the gauge a bit, I'd recommend a light touch and making a couple of passes to get your mark to a desired depth.

Matt

[Edward Mitton]

Ditto on all the above. Another trick that works really well is to shine a low angle light across the board you are marking to better see the progress and depth of the pin cut.

[Jim Koepke]

I have what looks like the same gauge and the pins have been sharpened to little nubs that barely work. Any advise on replacing them. They are too short to grab. Not too off thread, just the dangers of over sharpening.
Jim

Often the pins go through the arm and can be driven out with a small pin punch.

Otherwise you may need to get inventive with the removal and replacement.

One trick is to use diagonal pliers or wire cutters. You may need 'flush cut' or end nippers. The method is to use them to grip the pin and lever it out. Do not grab overly tight our you may cut the pin and then really have a time getting it out.

A good pair of 'dikes' can also be handy to remove a broken screw or one with a stripped head. In this case it is used inline with the axis of the screw with the tips of the blades biting into the sides of the screw.

jtk

[Hilton Ralphs]

I bought one of these (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70622&cat=1,43456,43400)from Lee Valley for no reason other than I'd never seen one like it. Within 24 hours of having received it, I put it to work extracting a broken key out of a circular padlock. None of my needle nose pliers could get that close.

273026

[Mike Holbrook]

I have been studying Jim Kingshott's videos on Mortises & Tenons and Dovetails. Jim started his cut lines by plunging a single pin (two pins for a mortise) into the point he wants to stop at. The hole at the end of the cut stops the pin from going any further than the exact end, even when the tool blocks the users view of the line, as is the case with most pin gauges. I think this method makes it easy to make a few quick, light passes with a pin gauge regardless of grain direction. Once the light passes start to form a groove more pressure can be added without the pins tearing or jumping around with the grain.

This technique has rekindled my interest in pin gauges.

[Andy Blake]

Great responses! Thanks for all the input.

Andy