Deepest, Glossiest Gloss with Poly?

[Brian Kent]

I want the highest, deepest gloss on the exterior of these chalices.

I have a couple of communion chalices that turned out nice with interesting grain discoloration. I am finishing with Minwax Clear Gloss Poly mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits for a wipe-on poly. After 30 days I'll finish with Beall Buffing system.

My question - how many coats of wipe-on poly will give the best results?

I am at 5 coats on the small one and 7 on the big one. What is the point that will give plenty of thickness for buffing? Is 9 a good number? I assume that is the equivalent of 3 coats of brush-on.

Thanks for your experience

[Scott Hackler]

Brian, cured poly is very hard and you don't need to think about "how many layers before I can buff" but rather how many layers to increase the depth. I don't do gloss poly (I just don't particularly care for the look) but I do use satin WOP sometimes. I will apply 5-6 coats and buff after the smell has died down. Works good for me.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you Scott. When these are wet, the gray grain has an amazing look, which is not as strong when it dries. I'll go for depth on this one. And I agree, usually I do not try for a deep gloss. Ironically, sometimes I go for a gloss when the grain is the plainest (like my very powdery-dry avocado wood) so that it is obvious that the finish is intentional.

[Dennis Ford]

Not sure how many layers, I would put on a couple of layers AFTER the pores were filled. That could take quite a few for walnut.

[Dennis Nagle]

If u really want them to shine, put on 5 or 6 coats then sand with 400 grit wet the put on 1 more coat, let dry then buff.

[Sid Matheny]

I never use less than 5 for anything but something like this I would go for 8 to 10. You do need to wait until the smell is gone to buff IMHO.


Sid

[Brian Kent]

And Sid, this is right for wipe-on?

[Paul Williams]

I think it is important to sand back after several coats to achieve a flat base to build on. If any grain indentations show after sanding I put on a few more coats and sand again. Then I put on two or three coats if I want a deep gloss finish. I usually end up with 7 to 10 coats.

[Brian Kent]

On the big cup I have sanded 3 times with 400 grit. None on the small one yet.

[John Keeton]

Brian, I think you will achieve a better result by wet sanding with mineral spirits at 600 in order to level the surface. It is very easy to sand thru with 400, and that can create a whole new set of issues.

[Brian Kent]

Great. Thank you, John.

edit - I just did this. Would it be advisable to do this with Vince's system using a slow power sander?

PS. I hope someone remembers to send you the 15K gift basket for 15,000 posts!

'nother edit: There are still some pores showing, so I'll keep going.

[Prashun Patel]

Brian, i am surprised you are using poly and not one of the other varnishes you have used with prior success. I am curious to hear how you find the poly film vs those. I find it to be more plasticky.

[Brian Kent]

That's an easy one, Prashun. I used a gift card to try several different finishes - Wood Turners Finish, MinWax, and Wipe-on Poly. Looking for a variety of finishes and trying them all. I ran out of Waterlox.

[Sid Matheny]

And Sid, this is right for wipe-on?

Yes Brian, WOP.

Sid

[Mike Cruz]

Brian, not exactly sure how you could apply this to your chalice, but for some stuff I make that gets used a bit, I use poly since poly is about the toughest finish you can use. I will wipe on the first coat...kinda rubbing it in to make sure it gets into the wood. After that, I dip them, then let the poly drip off. There are a couple of secrets to do this. One is that you need an "edge" for the poly to drip off of. Second, you NEED to pay attention during the process. By that, I mean that you can't just walk away and forget about it. After dipping, it will drip, and drip, and drip. The LAST drip must be dabbed off with a paper towel or cloth...otherwise, you'll have a dried drip. Now, with each dip that you do, you need to have a different spot for the poly to drip off of. Otherwise, you'll get build up on the drip spot. And three coats (the first wiped on, and two dipped) is usually plenty. It will give a super smooth, super deep, super shiny look to your piece. If you don't like super shiny (like Scott), do the first two coats with the clear gloss. Do the LAST coat with satin. I don't recommend doing all the coats with satin because then you'll build up a lot of the additives they put in the poly to keep it from being shiny...which, in my opinion, will dull the richness of the wood. Hope that helps.

[Fred Belknap]

There are a couple of secrets to do this. One is that you need an "edge" for the poly to drip off of. Second, you NEED to pay attention during the process. By that, I mean that you can't just walk away and forget about it. After dipping, it will drip, and drip, and drip. The LAST drip must be dabbed off with a paper towel or cloth...otherwise, you'll have a dried drip. Now, with each dip that you do, you need to have a different spot for the poly to drip off of. Otherwise, you'll get build up on the drip spot. And three coats (the first wiped on, and two dipped) is usually plenty. It will give a super smooth, super deep, super shiny look to your piece.

Mike that sounds like a plan. I make a few pens and tried the dipping method that Les of Red Deer uses and I didn't get the results that I was looking for. Even spending a lot of time wiping off the drips I still got a build up on the ends of the pen. Like the idea of using different place for it to drip from might help. I can imagine that you would need a large container of finish for anything of much size and how would you hang a bowl to let it drip? I have pretty much went back to CA finishes on pens as it is quicker and less of a mess. I still sometimes have a failure with CA.
Brian I have used a lot of WOP and it does a great job. I wouldn't consider less than 5 coats on a challis that is going to be used. I have pretty much gone to spaying with a paint sprayer. It takes a little practice but the results are a smoother finish. I have been using automotive clear coat lacquer. It doesn't change the color of the wood, it looks just like it does when you put water on the wood. I'm not sure how lacquer compares to poly for durability and hardness. I know that it dries a lot faster and is easier to spray on.

[Mike Cruz]

Fred, on a bowl would be tricky. The outside of the chalice wouldn't be too tough, though. You'd just need some sort of expansion jaws to grab it from the inside, and use the bottom/base rim as your drip point. Never thought about dipping for pens... But yeah, no matter how/what you dip, you DO need to keep changing your drip point.

[John Keeton]

Great. Thank you, John.

edit - I just did this. Would it be advisable to do this with Vince's system using a slow power sander?

PS. I hope someone remembers to send you the 15K gift basket for 15,000 posts!

'nother edit: There are still some pores showing, so I'll keep going.Brian, I never power sand in finishing mode. All wet sanding, or any other sanding on a finish is done by hand using light circular movements with small 2x2 squares of good sandpaper.

[Brian Kent]

Good. Thank you, John.